Woody

    24/02/2025

    Velvet Iris by Essential Parfums

    Dominique Ropion, 2025.

    Essential Parfums launches the new perfume, Velvet Iris, created by master Perfumer Dominique Ropion.

    The Velvet Iris smells like the departure of winter and early spring, when we feel greenery emerging from the buds and new life, breaking the earth’s surface.

    Galbanum highlights the green top, the heart is centred around a woody-faceted iris, and the base is earthy and warm.

    Essential Parfums prepares the official launch for the middle of May.

    03/07/2023

    Abîme by Maison Violet

    Nathalie Lorson, 2023.

    Back in 2018., when Anthony Toulemonde, Paul Richardot, and Victorien Sirot launched the first four perfumes of their brand Maison Violet, the story of young business partners whose friendship goes back to the first years of studying at the Ecole Supérieure du Parfum in Paris looked charming and promising. Now, five years and three more perfumes later, I am fully ready to exclaim: “Well done!”
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    22/09/2022

    Tendresse d’automne by Tobba Parfums

    Jasper Lie, 2023.

    The caressing beauty of Tendresse d’automne gave me chills, and I chose it for my Scent of the Pitti Day 2. That says it all.
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    21/09/2022

    Fig Infusion by Essential Parfums

    Nathalie Lorson, 2022.

    If it deceivingly seems simple, the face of authenticity may sometimes be considered self-understandable. But that is so until you take a good look around. This summer, I went through half of a 100 ml bottle of the latest Essential Parfums release – Fig Infusion. What in June seemed like the beginning of a beautiful friendship, in August, became a love that still grows.
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    20/09/2022

    A new rose / cigar perfume from Antonio Alessandria

    Amado Mio, launched in 2023.

    Antonio Alessandria has the authentic talent to create short but striking and continuously personal motifs that burst with vividness, Sicilian colouring, and warmth and then translate them into voluminous and complex perfumes. The new creation is jet to be named and launched, but a sumptuous, swirling, dark, and glittering marriage of crimson rose and amazingly vivacious tobacco cast a spell on me.
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    18/04/2022

    Naples by Gallivant

    Luca Maffei, 2021.

    Naples works as a piously smoky panorama overlayed with yellow, brown, blue and grey, presenting nature and history of the place, but without the noise and fuss the people create.
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    26/07/2021

    Joyful Collection by Miguel Matos Perfumes

    Miguel Matos, 2021.

    Twisted Tuberose, Summer Oud, Chypre Caramel and Agua Exotica make a joyful Joyful Collection!
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    05/01/2021

    Symmetry by Sarah Baker Perfumes

    Chris Maurice, 2020.

    What particularly delighted me is that the oud is lifted to the top of the composition and intertwines with the sparkling citruses almost immediately upon the opening. Symmetry feels smooth, but illuminated, and provides long-lasting, airy depth.
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    27/10/2020

    Lisbon Clubs 1920 collection by Miguel Matos Perfumes

    Miguel Matos, 2020.

    Olimpia Club, Bristol Club, Palace Club and Majestic Club
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    22/05/2020

    Bat 2 by Zoologist

    Prin Lomros, 2020.

    Zoologist’s Bat 2 smells and feels like a pause from olfactory literalism. This is unexpected.
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    19/05/2020

    Piano Santal by L’Orchestre Parfum

    Jean Jacques, 2019.

    The well-measured sensual tease makes Piano Santal olfactively acoustic.
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    01/04/2020

    Gold by Puredistance

    Antoine Lie, 2019.

    Gold is a richly layered oriental perfume, a fusion of modern abstraction and classic, filigree details.
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    17/03/2020

    Chemical Love by Maison Olibere

    Luca Maffei, 2018.

    Chemical Love is a lifter and a hitter – even the creaminess has an edge, and the boldness is underlying fragility.
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    13/02/2020

    Erawan by Dusita

    Pissara Umavijani, 2018.

    Erawan by Pissara Umavijani of Parfums Dusita is Art and Olfaction 2018. finalist.
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    08/02/2020

    Pergola by Exaltatum

    Eglia Vaitkevice, 2019.

    Springy Pergola is a complex modern green floral evoking sophistication of tradtional chypres and fougeres.
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    23/01/2020

    Bee by Zoologist

    Cristiano Canali, 2019.

    Bee by Zoologist is a vivid, yellow-bright and sweet interpretation of a buzzy bee, all covered with pollen and honey.
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    09/01/2020

    Malum by Bruno Acampora and Talento by Mendittorosa

    Miguel Matos / Amèlie Bourgeois and Camille Chamardine, 2019.

    On a splendid perfume coffee, I had the chance to take a whiff of two newly launched perfumes: Malum by Bruno Acampora and Talento by Mendittorosa.
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    25/11/2019

    La Tsarine and Madama Butterfly II by Senyokô

    Euan McCall, 2018./2019.

    Connected with the motif of two different female figures on the different poles of what we perceive as “traditional femininity”, strong and powerful La Tsarine and soft and subtle Madama Butterfly II together create a Senyokô’s story about women’s identity, roles, individuality and power/empowerment. 
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    15/11/2019

    Twilly Eau Poivrée by Hermès

    Christine Nagel, 2019.

    Eau Poivrée, peppery rose/patchouli Twilly flanker is a further step in creating Twilly-identity: refined, controlled and everything but daring. While original Twilly charmingly managed to get the balance between the casual and classic, Eau Poivrée got stuck in a limbo in between.
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    12/11/2019

    The Black Knight by Francesca Bianchi Perfumes

    Francesca Bianchi, 2019.

    The layers of shielding powder between the rose and the vetiver armour echo thick and smooth intimacy.
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