Idilios by Rubini Profumi
Cristiano Canali, 2025.
The newly launched Idilio is very different from the rest of the line.
Andrea follows the path of slow perfumery at its best – his perfumes are rounded, polished compositions deriving from the condensed idea.
I tested Idilios when the fluid was just produced and three hours old, but it smelled very promising. Look at the picture: blue sky, silky clouds, and pink inner glow. That’s Idilio — quietness, inner peace, and satisfaction.
Neon Lights by Milano Fragranze
Nathalie Fiesthauer, 2025.
Milano Fragranze continues the collection!
Neon Lights, the newly launched perfume, was created by Nathalie Fiesthauer under the creative direction of Ermano Picco.
The new perfume draws inspiration from the electrifying atmosphere of Milan’s iconic discotheque in the 1980s and 1990s:
“Neon Lights discotheque was a place where you could be whatever you wanted to be, a place of freedom and personal expression.”, explains Ermano Picco.
I tested Neon Lights on Esxence 2025, and it is a vibrant and sophisticatedly extroverted creation: strawberries, tuberose, musks, a touch of hairspray and powder, mixed with some heat and sweat, all revived, and mingling and dancing in tune.
Regina Vergine by Cristiano Cavagna
2025.
Regina Vergine (2025.) delivers an interesting contrast of green top and honeyed, waxy, warm and sweet drydown.
This is the fifth addition to the Cristiano Caravagna line La Tuberosa Secondo Me, inspired by tuberose.
Peach Trilogy collection by Sarah Baker
Chris Maurice, 2024/2025.
During Esxence 2025, Sarah Baker launched Pastel Rumours and Rococo Pie, completing the trilogy dedicated to peaches, introduced last year with Peach’s Revenge. The perfumes result from a long-standing cooperation with the perfumer Chris Maurice.
Peaches are peaches—in this trilogy, the Peach is an entity with flesh, juice, and skin, a character, and a mood: easy-going and indulgent, sweet but tricky, or subtly but precisely revengeful.
Each perfume creates an olfactory insight into what a nice peach can do when its peachiness is turned from all-peachy into something else.
I love that touch of larger-than-life feminine drama.
Velvet Iris by Essential Parfums
Dominique Ropion, 2025.
Essential Parfums launches the new perfume, Velvet Iris, created by master Perfumer Dominique Ropion.
The Velvet Iris smells like the departure of winter and early spring, when we feel greenery emerging from the buds and new life, breaking the earth’s surface.
Galbanum highlights the green top, the heart is centred around a woody-faceted iris, and the base is earthy and warm.
Essential Parfums prepares the official launch for the middle of May.
Hakuna Matata by 27_87
Rodrigo Flores-Roux, 2025
The founder of 27_87 Romy Kowalevski, grabbed the attention with a single message: “Bananas are taking the stage – vanilla is over!” and presented a memorable fruity-floral-amber: Hakuna Matata is a blend of banana and white florals, supported by musk over radiant and warm amber-vanilla base.
Tonka Latte by Parfums Dusitta
Pissara Umavijani, 2025.
Dusita launches Tonka Latte, the first top-to-bottom gourmand in Pissara Umavijani’s line.
The fragrance is “easy like Sunday morning,” creating a feeling of profound but straightforward warmth and ultimately celebrating finding happiness in life’s small pleasures.
From the Esxence 2025 stands
Cristiano Cavagna, Dusita, Frassai, Francesca Bianchi, Source Adage, Free Yourself, Coreterno, Eau de Boujees, Vallense, Blackcliff, Sarah Baker, Hiram Green, Borntostandout, Fugazzi, Double Dragon, Emil Elise, ELDO, Filippo Sorcinelli
Éveìlleur – European brand with Croatian signature
Olivier Cresp, Nathalie Lorson 2024.
Dajana Jukić, the brand’s owner and creative director, has broken the ice right where it is the thickest. Croatia now truly has a brand whose perfumes are signed by the crème de la crème of perfumers—Olivier Cresp and Nathalie Lorson—and the fragrances are produced at the very heart of the perfume industry, DSM-Firmenich.
La Serra Collection
Fabrice Pelegrin, Olivier Cresp, 2023.
KV by Kateryna Vel’menko
Amelie Burgois, Camille Chemardin, Elia Chice, Patrice Revillard, Antonio Alessandria, 2024.
KV by Kateryna Vel’menko – The Italian brand, whose face and name are represented by its creative director, showcased a large collection of 11 perfumes and presented them following a proven formula — and flawlessly so.
WOHA PARFUMS
Alejandro Ponsá, 2024.
The brand introduced the concept of “liquid architecture,” or the metamorphosis of architecture into fragrance, with great respect for the specificities of artistic perfumery.
Pitti Fragranze 2024
The 22 edition, 13 to 15 September 2024
The Spanish brand WOHA Parfums is a true example of artistic excellence. Although this edition of Pitti Fragranze showcased a significant number of new brands, this year I deliberately made a very narrow selection. There is also a comment why.
Rosae Virtus collection
Davide Dalla Libera, 2023.
Rosae Virtus is a brand-new Italian brand, launched on the first day of Esxence, and founded by Davide Dalla Libera, the botanist and the creator of the perfumes. The “Rosae Virtus” brand was born from the activities of the Novaspina farm, which produces and sells roses and irises of its own selection throughout Europe.
Rosarine by Dusita
Pissara Umavijani, 2023.
Rosarine is the perfume that the beautifully constructed Dusita collection missed to be perfect: a luscious red rose, refined, jet seductive, paired with polished patchouli.
Odenaturae and the new version of Fundamental by Rubini Profumi
Cristiano Canali, 2025.
Jasmin de Toscane by Jacques Fath
Jean-Christophe Herault, 2023.
Eau de Boujee collection
Pia Long and Nick Giblert, 2023.
Eau de Boujee naturally derived from the candles’ olfactive profiles, but Nick and Pia of Olfiction reworked and adapted the formulas and presented small but well-thought-out, skillfully crafted, and emotionally awakening perfumes: Verdant, Guilded, Queen, and Quir.