- Caramel
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- Oud / agarwood
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- Tuberose
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- Vanila
- Animalic
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- Fruity
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- White floral
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- Woody
- Artemisia
- |
- Incense
- |
- Rose
- |
- Rose/oud
- |
- Rose/patchouli
- Bergamot
- |
- Cypriol
- |
- Musks
- |
- Oud / agarwood
- |
- Petitgrain
Abîme by Maison Violet
Nathalie Lorson, 2023.
Back in 2018., when Anthony Toulemonde, Paul Richardot, and Victorien Sirot launched the first four perfumes of their brand Maison Violet, the story of young business partners whose friendship goes back to the first years of studying at the Ecole Supérieure du Parfum in Paris looked charming and promising.
Now, five years and three more perfumes later, I am fully ready to exclaim: “Well done!”
Conspiracy line – Wealth by Perfume Sucks
Andreas Wilhelm, 2023.
Andreas Wilhelm debunked the scent of money in all of its attractive cosiness, and in all of its unnatural, man-made dryness.
X COLLECTION by NISHANE
Mert Güzel and Murat Katran celebrate 10 the birthday of Nishane with the X Collection, which includes five most loved perfumes, reinterpreted: Ani X, Fan Your Flames X, Hacivat X, Hundred Silent Ways X and Woolong Cha X.
The balance, smoothness, and richness of the Nishane’s originals stayed intact; the “old” olfactive profiles remained fully preserved and are unmistakably recognisable to those who know them. However, each new interpretation presents a lighter, airier, and brighter character.
The X in the collection’s name stands for the Roman number 10, but after smelling all the perfumes, I feel that it may as well stand for “X-factor.”
10 years of that, and excellence is the reason for the deep respect.
I like the transparent and slightly floral Wolong Cha X even more than the initial creation, which I love.
Source Adage Fragrances
Source Adage organized the special event in a beautiful Studio Dimore in the centre of Florence, very near Santa Maria Novella. This is a brand to watch.
Source Adage is a New York-born brand, founded in 2015. by Christopher Draghi and Robert Dobay.
Capitalising on the first seven years of a successful business, the founders and creative directors opened a new chapter and relocated their brand and lives to Italy.
I enjoyed smelling three perfumes from their US collection, re-made by Firmenich for the EU market: C’i’an, Aétai, and Monto’ac. All three were very nice.
I liked Monto’ac, a freshly green, airy, and aromatic perfume built around sage, oakmoss, tobacco, and leather. I was captured by C’i’an, an elegant composition based on the juxtaposition of fresh and moist sweet apple and uplifting, coldish juniper and mint.
The creative duo presented the two perfumes, which were entirely made in Italy and will be launched at the end of the year. I look forward to exploring Clouds, a composition inspired by the moody spring sky.
Tilia by Olfactive Pharmacy
Mark Buxton, 2020.
Olfactive Pharmacy caught my eye because of the coherent visual branding that follows the story and the concept, quality packaging and three interesting perfumescreated by Mark Buxton.
Olfactive Pharmacy is a German apothecary brand from Köln, founded by the pharmacists Oliver and Holger Dubben.
I liked on-the-spot Tilia, a vivid, delicate and faithful interpretation of linden blossoms in a spring air – a light composition, wearable as a go-to, but with character.
Tendresse d’automne by Tobba Parfums
Jasper Lie, 2023.
18:9 Moldavite Green Light by Olivier Durbano
Olivier Durbano, 2022.
As his 18 perfume, Olivier Durbano presented 18:9 Moldavite Green Light: a classic, timeless and vivacious creation built around the angelica.
The bright and green composition moved me on a first sniff: through light, it possesses inner strength and is at the same time soothing and vibrating, energetic and calming, fresh and deep.
The perfumes Mr Durbano creates are true expressions of his spirit, up to the point when I feel that by smelling his compositions, he’s letting me inhale the layered expression of himself.
Fig Infusion by Essential Parfums
Nathalie Lorson, 2022.
If it deceivingly seems simple, the face of authenticity may sometimes be considered self-understandable. But that is so until you take a good look around.
This summer, I went through half of a 100 ml bottle of the latest Essential Parfums release – Fig Infusion. What in June seemed like the beginning of a beautiful friendship, in August, became a love that still grows.
A new rose / cigar perfume from Antonio Alessandria
Amado Mio, launched in 2023.
Antonio Alessandria has the authentic talent to create short but striking and continuously personal motifs that burst with vividness, Sicilian colouring, and warmth and then translate them into voluminous and complex perfumes. The new creation is jet to be named and launched, but a sumptuous, swirling, dark, and glittering marriage of crimson rose and amazingly vivacious tobacco cast a spell on me.
Neroli Mediterraneo by Perris Monte Carlo
Gian Luca Perris, 2022.
Solaro Collection by UERMI
Pierre-Constantin Guéros, 2022.
Il sole dentro, L’Isola che non c’è, Dove l’aqua è piú blu, and Dillo alla luna show that a concept of the summer collection can be smart and emotionally engaging when presented with sensibility and sophistication.
Le Grand Jeu by Voyages Imaginaries
Isabelle Doyen, Camille Goutal 2021.
The tropical composition is opulent and quite sweet but radiates from warm, sun-kissed skin in a very refined way.
Joyful Collection by Miguel Matos Perfumes
Miguel Matos, 2021.
Twisted Tuberose, Summer Oud, Chypre Caramel and Agua Exotica make a joyful Joyful Collection!
Exit the King by Etat Libre d’Orange
Ralf Schwieger, Cecille Matton, 2020.
14/02/2021
Nin Shar by Jul et Mad
Sidonie Lancesseur, 2015.
Nin Shar is a mythical tale about the oriental, empress rose, her hedonism, and her partnerships.
05/01/2021
Symmetry by Sarah Baker Perfumes
Chris Maurice, 2020.
What particularly delighted me is that the oud is lifted to the top of the composition and intertwines with the sparkling citruses almost immediately upon the opening. Symmetry feels smooth, but illuminated, and provides long-lasting, airy depth.
Jicky by Guerlain – In memoriam Sir Thomas Sean Connery
Aime Guerlain, 1889.
Each time I became enough annoyed to contradict the theories of “male” and “female” perfumes, gender and fragrant creation, I resorted to Jicky’s argument and the name of the famous actor.