NEZ – Oakmoss: an exemplary case of IFRA’s role
Author: Jessica Mignot / original content by NEZ published on 19.12.2022.
Certain iconic ingredients had to receive use restrictions – by IFRA Standards, government regulations or both – such as oakmoss. What problems do this ingredients poses? How has it been regulated? Matthias Vey, IFRA Vice President of Scientific Affairs, looks at the history of their IFRA Standards.
NEZ – Secrets and lies in perfumery
Author: Clement Paradis / original text published by NEZ on 6.1.2023.
“Abandon all hope of hearing the truth, ye who enter here”: words we might well be tempted to say to the novice taking an interest in perfumery. There is no denying that inventions, secrets and lies are legion in the fragrance universe.
From open secrets to copycat lies, lies of omission to workshop secrets, here is a brief overview of the deceptive discourse employed. Because, on the one hand, we have to laugh. And, on the other hand, the cult of mystery occasionally has its reasons, and it can be interesting to explore them.
NEZ – Woody ambers: the nasal invaders
Authors: Jeanne Doré, Jessica Mignot / original content by NEZ published on 17.11.2022.
While rose and jasmine are media darlings, there is an entire family of aroma compounds whose inclusion in perfume messaging is inversely proportional to its presence in bottles and sillages. You smell them everywhere without knowing it, these mystery compounds. When, how and why did woody ambers invade perfumery? Here is our attempt at an answer for you: some facts, some history, and a healthy dose of subjectivity!
01/08/2022
NEZ – Perfumery disoriented – Ambery or Oriental?
Part 1 and 2. Author: Clement Paradis / The original articles published in NEZ, 28.7.2022.
“What’s to be done with Oriental fragrances? For a few months now, the perfume world has been reflecting and taking a stand on the use of the adjective “Oriental,” perceived as potentially offensive to certain populations. It is therefore time to take stock of what we smell and what we dream through this disputed term, first by studying its birth and its olfactory meaning, then by digging into its anchoring in a colonial context.”