Musc Couture by Jacques Fath
Jean-Christophe Herault, 2025.
The current moment stripped naked and turned to a show
Who fuckin’ cares, right?
Esxence 2025 reflected the struggle to stand out: much like a plethora of perfumes, Esxence was too much, too loud, and sadly, above all, much the same.
“How to stand out?” – the masters of controversial marketing answer the hottest question
The panel discussion on Esxence 2025: “How to position your brand for maximum attention from press, influencers, journalists and retailers?”
The question remains unanswered, as it should be, because there is no universal solution that fits every brand.
However, Etienne de Swardt (Etat Libre d’Orange) and Jun Lim (Borntostandout), the masters of controversial marketing, gave the most illuminating talks on standing out in a highly competitive and overcrowded perfume market.
Idilios by Rubini Profumi
Cristiano Canali, 2025.
The newly launched Idilio is very different from the rest of the line.
Andrea follows the path of slow perfumery at its best – his perfumes are rounded, polished compositions deriving from the condensed idea.
I tested Idilios when the fluid was just produced and three hours old, but it smelled very promising. Look at the picture: blue sky, silky clouds, and pink inner glow. That’s Idilio — quietness, inner peace, and satisfaction.
Neon Lights by Milano Fragranze
Nathalie Fiesthauer, 2025.
Milano Fragranze continues the collection!
Neon Lights, the newly launched perfume, was created by Nathalie Fiesthauer under the creative direction of Ermano Picco.
The new perfume draws inspiration from the electrifying atmosphere of Milan’s iconic discotheque in the 1980s and 1990s:
“Neon Lights discotheque was a place where you could be whatever you wanted to be, a place of freedom and personal expression.”, explains Ermano Picco.
I tested Neon Lights on Esxence 2025, and it is a vibrant and sophisticatedly extroverted creation: strawberries, tuberose, musks, a touch of hairspray and powder, mixed with some heat and sweat, all revived, and mingling and dancing in tune.
Regina Vergine by Cristiano Cavagna
2025.
Regina Vergine (2025.) delivers an interesting contrast of green top and honeyed, waxy, warm and sweet drydown.
This is the fifth addition to the Cristiano Caravagna line La Tuberosa Secondo Me, inspired by tuberose.
Bergamotto di Reggio Calabria
Materials, cultivation, production
Sensory Journey into the Olfactory Treasure of Made in Italy – a project by Accademia del Profumo, presented on Esxence 2025
Peach Trilogy kolekcija – Sarah Baker
Chris Maurice, 2024/2025.
Sarah Baker lansirala je Pastel Rumours i Rococo Pie, koji zaokružuju trilogiju posvećenu breskvi.
Peach Trilogy” kolekcija predstavljena je prošle godine s Peach’s Revenge, a sva tri parfema su rezultat suradnje Chrisom Mauriceom.
Iako breskvu najradije nosim kao pozadinsku notu – a u sva tri parfema breskva je u prvome planu – stvarno mi se sviđa što je Sarah Baker napravila s u osnovi gurmanskim profilom parfema:
U ovoj trilogiji, breskva je mirisni entitet koji ima meso koje možeš uhvatiti, baršunastu kožu koja dodiruje i koja se ježi, sok koji curi kroz prste te – raspoloženje i karakter.
Svaki parfem stvara mirisnu priču što sve slatka breskva može postati kada se njezino raspoloženje promijeni iz samo breskvastog u drugo:
Bila ona opuštena i zadovoljna, slatka, ali opaka, ili pak suptilno, ali precizno osvetoljubiva – breskva je breskva je breskva.
Kod Sarah Baker naprosto volim taj touch ženske drame.
Velvet Iris – Essential Parfums
Dominique Ropion, 2025.
U kolekciji Essential parfums uskoro će se naći i iris:
Velvet Iris potpisuje Master Parfumer Dominique Ropion, a miriše na odlazak zime i svježe, rano proljeće, kada probijaju prvi pupovi i nove zelene travke.
Velvet Iris je pri vrhu magično zelen, s lijepo istaknutim galbanumom.
Srcem dominira baršunasti iris s izraženim drvenim fasetima, koji pri bazi prelaze u tople, zemljane tonove.
Essential Parfums planira izlazak parfema sredinom svibnja.
Hakuna Matata by 27_87
Rodrigo Flores-Roux, 2025
The founder of 27_87 Romy Kowalevski, grabbed the attention with a single message: “Bananas are taking the stage – vanilla is over!” and presented a memorable fruity-floral-amber: Hakuna Matata is a blend of banana and white florals, supported by musk over radiant and warm amber-vanilla base.
Tonka Latte by Parfums Dusitta
Pissara Umavijani, 2025.
Dusita launches Tonka Latte, the first top-to-bottom gourmand in Pissara Umavijani’s line.
The fragrance is “easy like Sunday morning,” creating a feeling of profound but straightforward warmth and ultimately celebrating finding happiness in life’s small pleasures.
From the Esxence 2025 stands
Cristiano Cavagna, Dusita, Frassai, Francesca Bianchi, Source Adage, Free Yourself, Coreterno, Eau de Boujees, Vallense, Blackcliff, Sarah Baker, Hiram Green, Borntostandout, Fugazzi, Double Dragon, Emil Elise, ELDO, Filippo Sorcinelli
Retrospektiva: Parfemi 1920-ih, izložba L’Osmotheque
ESXENCE 2025
On Esxence 2025 L’Osmotheque presented a selection of 15 perfumes from the Roaring Twenties