Idilios by Rubini Profumi
Cristiano Canali, 2025.
The newly launched Idilio is very different from the rest of the line.
Andrea follows the path of slow perfumery at its best – his perfumes are rounded, polished compositions deriving from the condensed idea.
I tested Idilios when the fluid was just produced and three hours old, but it smelled very promising. Look at the picture: blue sky, silky clouds, and pink inner glow. That’s Idilio — quietness, inner peace, and satisfaction.
Neon Lights by Milano Fragranze
Nathalie Fiesthauer, 2025.
Milano Fragranze continues the collection!
Neon Lights, the newly launched perfume, was created by Nathalie Fiesthauer under the creative direction of Ermano Picco.
The new perfume draws inspiration from the electrifying atmosphere of Milan’s iconic discotheque in the 1980s and 1990s:
“Neon Lights discotheque was a place where you could be whatever you wanted to be, a place of freedom and personal expression.”, explains Ermano Picco.
I tested Neon Lights on Esxence 2025, and it is a vibrant and sophisticatedly extroverted creation: strawberries, tuberose, musks, a touch of hairspray and powder, mixed with some heat and sweat, all revived, and mingling and dancing in tune.
Regina Vergine by Cristiano Cavagna
2025.
Regina Vergine (2025.) delivers an interesting contrast of green top and honeyed, waxy, warm and sweet drydown.
This is the fifth addition to the Cristiano Caravagna line La Tuberosa Secondo Me, inspired by tuberose.
Peach Trilogy collection by Sarah Baker
Chris Maurice, 2024/2025.
During Esxence 2025, Sarah Baker launched Pastel Rumours and Rococo Pie, completing the trilogy dedicated to peaches, introduced last year with Peach’s Revenge. The perfumes result from a long-standing cooperation with the perfumer Chris Maurice.
Peaches are peaches—in this trilogy, the Peach is an entity with flesh, juice, and skin, a character, and a mood: easy-going and indulgent, sweet but tricky, or subtly but precisely revengeful.
Each perfume creates an olfactory insight into what a nice peach can do when its peachiness is turned from all-peachy into something else.
I love that touch of larger-than-life feminine drama.
Velvet Iris by Essential Parfums
Dominique Ropion, 2025.
Essential Parfums launches the new perfume, Velvet Iris, created by master Perfumer Dominique Ropion.
The Velvet Iris smells like the departure of winter and early spring, when we feel greenery emerging from the buds and new life, breaking the earth’s surface.
Galbanum highlights the green top, the heart is centred around a woody-faceted iris, and the base is earthy and warm.
Essential Parfums prepares the official launch for the middle of May.
Tonka Latte by Parfums Dusitta
Pissara Umavijani, 2025.
Dusita launches Tonka Latte, the first top-to-bottom gourmand in Pissara Umavijani’s line.
The fragrance is “easy like Sunday morning,” creating a feeling of profound but straightforward warmth and ultimately celebrating finding happiness in life’s small pleasures.
Éveìlleur – European brand with Croatian signature
Olivier Cresp, Nathalie Lorson 2024.
Dajana Jukić, the brand’s owner and creative director, has broken the ice right where it is the thickest. Croatia now truly has a brand whose perfumes are signed by the crème de la crème of perfumers—Olivier Cresp and Nathalie Lorson—and the fragrances are produced at the very heart of the perfume industry, DSM-Firmenich.
KV by Kateryna Vel’menko
Amelie Burgois, Camille Chemardin, Elia Chice, Patrice Revillard, Antonio Alessandria, 2024.
KV by Kateryna Vel’menko – The Italian brand, whose face and name are represented by its creative director, showcased a large collection of 11 perfumes and presented them following a proven formula — and flawlessly so.
Rosae Virtus collection
Davide Dalla Libera, 2023.
Rosae Virtus is a brand-new Italian brand, launched on the first day of Esxence, and founded by Davide Dalla Libera, the botanist and the creator of the perfumes. The “Rosae Virtus” brand was born from the activities of the Novaspina farm, which produces and sells roses and irises of its own selection throughout Europe.
Rosarine by Dusita
Pissara Umavijani, 2023.
Rosarine is the perfume that the beautifully constructed Dusita collection missed to be perfect: a luscious red rose, refined, jet seductive, paired with polished patchouli.
Odenaturae and the new version of Fundamental by Rubini Profumi
Cristiano Canali, 2025.
Abîme by Maison Violet
Nathalie Lorson, 2023.
Back in 2018., when Anthony Toulemonde, Paul Richardot, and Victorien Sirot launched the first four perfumes of their brand Maison Violet, the story of young business partners whose friendship goes back to the first years of studying at the Ecole Supérieure du Parfum in Paris looked charming and promising.
Now, five years and three more perfumes later, I am fully ready to exclaim: “Well done!”
X COLLECTION by NISHANE
Mert Güzel and Murat Katran celebrate 10 the birthday of Nishane with the X Collection, which includes five most loved perfumes, reinterpreted: Ani X, Fan Your Flames X, Hacivat X, Hundred Silent Ways X and Woolong Cha X.
The balance, smoothness, and richness of the Nishane’s originals stayed intact; the “old” olfactive profiles remained fully preserved and are unmistakably recognisable to those who know them. However, each new interpretation presents a lighter, airier, and brighter character.
The X in the collection’s name stands for the Roman number 10, but after smelling all the perfumes, I feel that it may as well stand for “X-factor.”
10 years of that, and excellence is the reason for the deep respect.
I like the transparent and slightly floral Wolong Cha X even more than the initial creation, which I love.
Source Adage Fragrances
Source Adage organized the special event in a beautiful Studio Dimore in the centre of Florence, very near Santa Maria Novella. This is a brand to watch.
Source Adage is a New York-born brand, founded in 2015. by Christopher Draghi and Robert Dobay.
Capitalising on the first seven years of a successful business, the founders and creative directors opened a new chapter and relocated their brand and lives to Italy.
I enjoyed smelling three perfumes from their US collection, re-made by Firmenich for the EU market: C’i’an, Aétai, and Monto’ac. All three were very nice.
I liked Monto’ac, a freshly green, airy, and aromatic perfume built around sage, oakmoss, tobacco, and leather. I was captured by C’i’an, an elegant composition based on the juxtaposition of fresh and moist sweet apple and uplifting, coldish juniper and mint.
The creative duo presented the two perfumes, which were entirely made in Italy and will be launched at the end of the year. I look forward to exploring Clouds, a composition inspired by the moody spring sky.
Tendresse d’automne by Tobba Parfums
Jasper Lie, 2023.
18:9 Moldavite Green Light by Olivier Durbano
Olivier Durbano, 2022.
As his 18 perfume, Olivier Durbano presented 18:9 Moldavite Green Light: a classic, timeless and vivacious creation built around the angelica.
The bright and green composition moved me on a first sniff: through light, it possesses inner strength and is at the same time soothing and vibrating, energetic and calming, fresh and deep.
The perfumes Mr Durbano creates are true expressions of his spirit, up to the point when I feel that by smelling his compositions, he’s letting me inhale the layered expression of himself.
Fig Infusion by Essential Parfums
Nathalie Lorson, 2022.
If it deceivingly seems simple, the face of authenticity may sometimes be considered self-understandable. But that is so until you take a good look around.
This summer, I went through half of a 100 ml bottle of the latest Essential Parfums release – Fig Infusion. What in June seemed like the beginning of a beautiful friendship, in August, became a love that still grows.