{"id":7739,"date":"2020-04-29T18:00:00","date_gmt":"2020-04-29T16:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/?p=7739"},"modified":"2025-05-14T15:29:10","modified_gmt":"2025-05-14T13:29:10","slug":"hermes-lombre-des-merveilles","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/hermes-lombre-des-merveilles\/","title":{"rendered":"L’Ombre des Merveilles \/ Herm\u00e8s"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

L’Ombre des Merveilles prvo je Herm\u00e8sovo izdanje u 2020. i drugi Merveilles koji potpisuje Herm\u00e8sova ku\u0107na parfumerka Christine Nagel<\/strong>. Moja dugogodi\u0161nja odanost Herm\u00e8sovoj Merveilles liniji<\/a> rezultat je ljubavi prema akordu koji su u prvoj Eau des Mervilles<\/em> 2004. godine stvorili Nathalie Fitzhauer i Ralf Schweiger. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

U slu\u010daju ove linije “flankeraj” me ne smeta, dapa\u010de: svaku novu interpretaciju izvornog slano-toplog akorda promatram kao svojevrsnu stilsku vje\u017ebu na isti, karakteristi\u010dan mirisni motiv. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

L’Ombre des Merveilles sam do\u010dekala s radoznalim oprezom, grade\u0107i o\u010dekivanja oko boje (“Je li uistinu plava? I koliko ova plava ima veze s pro\u0161logodi\u0161njom L’Eau des Merveilles Bleue, koju sam bez ve\u0107eg odu\u0161evljenja primila na znanje?”<\/em>), naziva (“Je li sjenka u nazivu doista naznaka dubljeg i tamnijeg mirisa?”<\/em>) i parfumera (\u010ceka li me, nakon zanimljivog slano-mineralnog srca kakvo je Nagel predstavila u Blue prizemljenje u jo\u0161 jedan njen tana\u0161an woody amber drydown?<\/em>).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dakle: boja<\/em> – da! Sjenka<\/em> – da! Zadnje<\/em> – ne! <\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Merveilles<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Hermes je tradicionalno \u0161krt kada se radi o prikazu mirisnih nota. Slu\u017ebeno, u ovom parfemu je Merveilles akord okru\u017een tek trima: \u010dajem u vrhu, dimom u sredini i tonkom u dnu kompozicije. Me\u0111utim, prvi udisaji pokazuju da se u L’Ombre des Merveilles<\/em> zbiva mnogo vi\u0161e.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Iako blago citrusno, pa \u010dak i mrvicu bockavo, otvaranje je ne\u0161to sla\u0111e nego \u0161to sam o\u010dekivala. Citrusno vo\u0107no-slatkasto otvaranje svakako je manje svje\u017ee i ne\u0161to sla\u0111e od otvaranja izvorne Eau i Bleue <\/em>i prije bih ukupan dojam povezala s kandiranom naran\u010dom iz Elixira ili s vo\u0107kasto-slatkim citrusnim slojem s po\u010detka L’Ambre, nego s eau-varijantama Merveilles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

S druge strane, kada sam L’Ombre<\/em> koja je nedvosmisleno najavila kako pripada “puna\u0161nijem” dijelu linije, u daljnjem razvoju uspore\u0111ivala s Elixirom i L’Ambre – svaka sli\u010dnost je prestala imati smisla: Dok se Elixir zaobljava i kre\u0107e prema punom, gotovo gurmanski slatko-slanom toplom srcu, a L’Ambre suptilno uti\u0161ava u kuglu slankaste ambrine topline – L’Ombre mijenja smjer i pomalo se “hladi” bez gubitka punine. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Za dojam hla\u0111enja i tamnjenja zaslu\u017ean je blag, prozra\u010dan, ali jasan dim koji uokviruje i slano srce i toplu podlogu. Za razliku od Eau des Merveilles i Bleau koje sam ascijacijama vezala uz otvorene prostore, L’Ambre koju vezujem uz toplu “lived in” intimnost puti i Elixir, koji je bogato toplo-omataju\u0107, ali i bridak, L’Ombre ima ne\u0161to i komorno-tamno, transparentno i svje\u017ee opu\u0161taju\u0107e. Mogla sam se zamisliti u nekom poluzamra\u010denom spa-prostoru kako, nakon \u0161alice toplog i zasla\u0111enog naran\u010dinog \u010daja, le\u017eim na toplim oblutcima koji jo\u0161 \u010duvaju miris mora, okru\u017eena blagom i svje\u017ee-hladnim i pone\u0161to reskim dimom. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

L’Ombre des Merveilles odr\u017eala je zanimljivu chiaroscuro vi\u0161edimenzionalnost do samog dna kompozicije. Baza u kojoj se stalno isprepli\u0107u topli i hladni te svijetli i tamni elementi asocirala me i na morsku ambijentalnost i toplu svje\u017einu L’Eau, i na hladnu mineralnu glatko\u0107u Bleue, i na britku puninu toplog Elixira i na komornu intimnost L’Ambre.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sasvim pri ko\u017ei, uz glatku i mekanu tonku kao da osje\u0107am i blago mo\u0161usni podton, koji zaobljava i onako toplu bazu. Sve do najdubljeg drydowna preko intimno-toplih i donekle stati\u010dnih mirisnih slojeva radijalno vijori o\u0161tiji, slankast i dinami\u010dan dim, koji relaksira, osvje\u017eava i hladi.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"l-Ombre-des-Merveilles-2\"<\/a>
Herm\u00e8s na slu\u017ebenoj stranici nudi sljede\u0107i opis L’Ombre des Merveilles: “Intenzivna radijalnost chiaroscuro parfema, podjednako drvenog i orijentalnog. Senzualnost tonke i tamjana isti\u010du duboke note crnog \u010daja.”<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

L’Ombre<\/em> des Merveilles<\/em> sam nosila kroz niz proljetnih svje\u017eih jutara, ali i prili\u010dno tople sredine dana. U poku\u0161aju da rastavim bogatu kompoziciju na \u0161to vi\u0161e prostih faktora – bilo da se radi o notama, bilo da se radi o asocijacijama – doga\u0111alo bi mi se da se u kasnijim ve\u010dernjim satima, nakon cjelodnevnog no\u0161enja, vratim na onu: “ne\u0161to novo, ne\u0161to staro, ne\u0161to posu\u0111eno i ne\u0161to plavo”<\/em>. Da, to\u010dno je tako, no zadanim okvirima u kojima se ova linija kre\u0107e interpretiraju\u0107i u razli\u010ditim kontekstima mirisni akord u svom srcu, doista ne mogu na\u0107i L’Ombre <\/em>manu:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Christine Nagel je sa drugim po redu svojim \u010dlanom multiautorske i unikatne Herm\u00e8sove linije zadr\u017eala, u\u010dvrstila i reinterpretirala sve najbolje elemente skupnog Merveilles identiteta, ali je u “stilskoj vje\u017ebi s \u010dajem, dimom i tonkom” stvorila nov, doista dobar topliji – ali ne te\u017eak, dimast – ali ne gust i mra\u010dan, bridak i mek, slatkast i slankast unisex parfem. <\/p>\n\n\n

\n
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Merveilles stilska vje\u017eba u dimu i \u010daju.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":10341,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_kad_blocks_custom_css":"","_kad_blocks_head_custom_js":"","_kad_blocks_body_custom_js":"","_kad_blocks_footer_custom_js":"","_kad_post_transparent":"","_kad_post_title":"","_kad_post_layout":"","_kad_post_sidebar_id":"","_kad_post_content_style":"","_kad_post_vertical_padding":"","_kad_post_feature":"","_kad_post_feature_position":"","_kad_post_header":false,"_kad_post_footer":false,"_kad_post_classname":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[1666],"tags":[],"kreator":[2479],"topic":[3905],"brand":[2387],"parfemska_grupa":[3258,2024,2017,3269,2014,3268,2020],"note":[1896,1895,2505,2462],"organization":[],"osobe":[],"serijal":[],"class_list":["post-7739","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-parfemi","kreator-christine-nagel-hr","topic-recenzije","brand-hermes-hr","parfemska_grupa-ambra","parfemska_grupa-aromaticni","parfemska_grupa-citrusni","parfemska_grupa-dim","parfemska_grupa-ambreni-orijentalni","parfemska_grupa-slano","parfemska_grupa-vocni","note-ambergris","note-ambra","note-caj","note-tonka-hr"],"acf":{"show_related_posts":false,"related-post_1":null,"related-post_2":null,"related-post_3":null,"related-post_4":null,"related-post_5":null,"related-post_6":null,"related-post_7":null,"related-post_8":null,"related-post_9":null,"related-post_10":null},"taxonomy_info":{"category":[{"value":1666,"label":"Parfemi"}],"kreator":[{"value":2479,"label":"Christine Nagel"}],"topic":[{"value":3905,"label":"Recenzije"}],"brand":[{"value":2387,"label":"Herm\u00e8s"}],"parfemska_grupa":[{"value":3258,"label":"Ambra"},{"value":2024,"label":"Aromati\u010dno"},{"value":2017,"label":"Citrusni"},{"value":3269,"label":"Dim"},{"value":2014,"label":"Orijentalni"},{"value":3268,"label":"Slano"},{"value":2020,"label":"Vo\u0107ni"}],"note":[{"value":1896,"label":"Ambergris"},{"value":1895,"label":"Ambra"},{"value":2505,"label":"\u010caj"},{"value":2462,"label":"Tonka"}]},"featured_image_src_large":["https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/Hermes-LOmbre-des-Merveilles-big.jpg",800,540,false],"author_info":{"display_name":"Iva Mirisna","author_link":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/author\/miradmin\/"},"comment_info":0,"category_info":[{"term_id":1666,"name":"Parfemi","slug":"parfemi","term_group":0,"term_taxonomy_id":1666,"taxonomy":"category","description":"Recenzije parfema, naglasci i nova izdanja","parent":0,"count":113,"filter":"raw","term_order":"0","cat_ID":1666,"category_count":113,"category_description":"Recenzije parfema, naglasci i nova izdanja","cat_name":"Parfemi","category_nicename":"parfemi","category_parent":0}],"tag_info":false,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7739","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=7739"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7739\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/10341"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=7739"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=7739"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=7739"},{"taxonomy":"kreator","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/kreator?post=7739"},{"taxonomy":"topic","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/topic?post=7739"},{"taxonomy":"brand","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/brand?post=7739"},{"taxonomy":"parfemska_grupa","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/parfemska_grupa?post=7739"},{"taxonomy":"note","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/note?post=7739"},{"taxonomy":"organization","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/organization?post=7739"},{"taxonomy":"osobe","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/osobe?post=7739"},{"taxonomy":"serijal","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/serijal?post=7739"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}