{"id":37719,"date":"2020-08-20T15:03:00","date_gmt":"2020-08-20T13:03:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/?p=37719"},"modified":"2025-05-14T15:29:01","modified_gmt":"2025-05-14T13:29:01","slug":"fath-essentials-volume-2-2017-jacques-fath","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/fath-essentials-volume-2-2017-jacques-fath\/","title":{"rendered":"Fath Essentials, Volume 2 kolekcija &#8211; Jacques Fath"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p class=\"has-drop-cap\">Kona\u010dno sam upoznala tri volumena, odnosno tri kvarteta parfema objedinjenih u liniji&nbsp;<em>Fath Essentials<\/em>&nbsp;iza kojih&nbsp;stoji kreativna direktorica&nbsp;<strong>Rania Naim.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Prva dva dijela<em>&nbsp;Fath Essentials&nbsp;<\/em>linije&nbsp;\u010dine parfemi&nbsp;<strong>Cecile Zarokian<\/strong>&nbsp;(<em>Volume 1<\/em>, 2015.) i&nbsp;<strong>Luce Maffeija&nbsp;<\/strong>(<em>Volume 2<\/em>, 2017.), doksu u&nbsp;<em>Volume 3 (2018.)&nbsp;<\/em>uvr\u0161tene kreacije oba parfumera.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/Jacques-Fath-team-Luca-Maffei-Cecile-Zarokian-Rania-Naim.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Fath-team-Luca-Maffei-Cecile-Zarokian-Rania-Naim\" class=\"wp-image-1887\" width=\"400\" height=\"282\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/Jacques-Fath-team-Luca-Maffei-Cecile-Zarokian-Rania-Naim.jpg 400w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/Jacques-Fath-team-Luca-Maffei-Cecile-Zarokian-Rania-Naim-300x212.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Rania Naim, Luca Maffei, Cecile Zarokian<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Odlu\u010dila sam krenuti od sredine:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Maffeijev&nbsp;<em>Fath Essentials Volume 2<\/em>&nbsp;je lako nosiva, nezahtjevna i vedra cjelina, a sastoji se dominantno od cvjetnih kreacija koje reprezentiraju mimozu, bijeli jorgovan, ru\u017eu i rasko\u0161an buket doista razli\u010ditog cvije\u0107a.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>U mom osobnom sustavu vrednovanja i svi\u0111anja\/nesvi\u0111anja ve\u0107ina od \u010detiri parfema komotno se smjestila u podru\u010dje cvjetnog &#8220;go to&#8221; dnevnog parfema. Tri od \u010detiri kreacije ne bih imala protiv povremeno nositi kroz sezonu ili mo\u017eda dvije, \u0161to smatram dobrim rezultatom.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:20px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading_7f5202-8a, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading_7f5202-8a[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading_7f5202-8a\"]{text-align:center;font-style:normal;text-transform:uppercase;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading_7f5202-8a mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading_7f5202-8a[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading_7f5202-8a\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading_7f5202-8a img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading_7f5202-8a[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading_7f5202-8a\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}<\/style>\n<h2 class=\"kt-adv-heading_7f5202-8a wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading_7f5202-8a\">L\u2019Or\u00e9e du Bois&nbsp;<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:20px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/IMG_20191030_114335-01-1400x1050.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-37721\" width=\"350\" height=\"263\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/IMG_20191030_114335-01-1400x1050.jpeg 1400w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/IMG_20191030_114335-01-300x225.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/IMG_20191030_114335-01-768x576.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/IMG_20191030_114335-01-1536x1153.jpeg 1536w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/IMG_20191030_114335-01-scaled.jpeg 1865w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 350px) 100vw, 350px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Note&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/www.jacques-fath-parfums.com\/en\/shop\/loree-du-bois\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">prema slu\u017ebenoj stranici<\/a>:<br>Vrh &#8211; bergamot, mandarina, marokanski neroli<br>Sredina &#8211; absolut mimoze, absolut naran\u010dinog cvijeta, absolut \u017eutilovke, ylang ylang<br>Dno &#8211; &#8220;zlatni akord&#8221;, ka\u0161miran, sandalovina, ambra, med, mo\u0161usi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p><em>L\u2019Or\u00e9e du Bois<\/em>&nbsp;nazvan je po vjen\u010danoj haljini koju je Jacques Fath kreirao za Ritu Hayworth.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Radi se o cvjetno-orijentalnoj kompoziciji koju predvodi bogata zlatno-nje\u017ena mimoza, podr\u017eana transparentnom i laganom ambrom te toplim za\u010dinima na blago medom zasla\u0111enoj drvenoj podlozi.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Plemenito mirna prozra\u010dna toplina posjeduje pahulji\u010dastost mimoze, a mirisnu dubinu, koju pru\u017ea orijentalno-drvena podloga parfema, ne prati te\u017eina.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>No\u0161enje ba\u0161 u danima sun\u010dane i zla\u0107ane jeseni izvuklo je iz<em>&nbsp;L\u2019Or\u00e9e du Bois<\/em>&nbsp;malo bogatstvo zlatnih mirisnih nijansi: u cvjetovima-kuglicama zlatno\u017eute mimoze ocrtavaju se latice-vlati-pahuljice kao sun\u010deve zrake, \u017eitka transparentno zlatna ambra stapa se s medom i ljeska ponad svijetlog drveta.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>L\u2019Or\u00e9e du Bois je parfem za rasko\u0161nu i meku zlatnu jesen i jedna od ozbiljnih i osmi\u0161ljenijih mimoza koje sam imala priliku probati u zadnje vrijeme.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:20px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading_7e5eba-95, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading_7e5eba-95[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading_7e5eba-95\"]{text-align:center;font-style:normal;text-transform:uppercase;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading_7e5eba-95 mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading_7e5eba-95[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading_7e5eba-95\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading_7e5eba-95 img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading_7e5eba-95[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading_7e5eba-95\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}<\/style>\n<h2 class=\"kt-adv-heading_7e5eba-95 wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading_7e5eba-95\">Lilas Exquis<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:20px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-medium\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/IMG_20191030_114407-01-300x225.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-37723\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/IMG_20191030_114407-01-300x225.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/IMG_20191030_114407-01-1400x1048.jpeg 1400w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/IMG_20191030_114407-01-768x575.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/IMG_20191030_114407-01-1536x1150.jpeg 1536w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/IMG_20191030_114407-01-scaled.jpeg 1870w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Note&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/www.jacques-fath-parfums.com\/en\/shop\/lilas-exquis\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">prema slu\u017ebenoj stranici<\/a>:<br>Vrh &#8211; bergamot, zumbul, borovnica<br>Sredina &#8211; jorgovan, ljibi\u010dicin kremasti akord, magnolija, lipa<br>Dno &#8211; absolut ambrette, timbersilk (<em>IFF-ov Iso E Super<\/em>,&nbsp;<em>napomena<\/em>), ambroxan, mo\u0161us<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>&#8220;Zelena lica zaigranog zumbula veselo se isprepli\u0107u s cvjetovima bijelog jorgovana i iznena\u0111uju\u0107iom kremom ljubi\u010dice&#8221;, ka\u017ee promotivna kartica.&nbsp;(&#8220;<em>The playful Hyacinth and its green facets mingles jojfully with Lilac flower and surprising Violet cream accord.&#8221;<\/em>)&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>U osnovi, radi se o floral-musku s izra\u017eenijim zelenim i svje\u017eim elementima.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ina\u010de nisam posebno naklonjena zumbulu, koji dominira otvaranjem, no u ovoj kompoziciji je njegov cvjetni i katkad prodoran dio karaktera solidno iskontroliran i ubla\u017een, a poja\u010dani su njegovi hladno-svje\u017ei i zeleno-vla\u017eni dijelovi.&nbsp;Iako prikaz mirisnih nota&nbsp;u otvaranju&nbsp;ne spominje druge zelene note, \u010dini mi se da zumbul zelenilo duguje jo\u0161 nekom zeleno-travnatom elementu.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I kroz sredinu parfema, kojom vladaju nje\u017eni jorgovani, provla\u010di se osje\u0107aj vla\u017eno zelenih nje\u017enih proljetnih latica. Cvjetna rasko\u0161 je prisutna, a uspijeva djelovati nenametljivo prirodno i delikatno svje\u017ee.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>U sredini razvoja&nbsp;<em>Lilas Exquis<\/em>&nbsp;iz zeleno-cvjetne zalazi popularnu floral-musk kategoriju. Spominje se&nbsp;<em>&#8220;violet cream accord&#8221;<\/em>, no moj nos ga prepoznaje kao svilenkast i kremast bijeli mo\u0161us, podignut i osvje\u017een zra\u010dno-zelenkastim, tako\u0111er vla\u017enim listovima ljubi\u010dice.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nakon otvaranja i sredine mirisa, koji su mi se doista svidjeli, u dubljem drydownu imala sam osje\u0107aj da nosim ne\u0161to neodre\u0111eno poznato, ali lijepo i vrlo ugodno.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>Lilas Exquis<\/em>&nbsp;lako mogu zamisliti na sebi u prvoj polovini prolje\u0107a, dok sve pod suncem pupa, lista, cvate, jutra su jo\u0161 svje\u017ea, maglovita i vla\u017ena, a dani sun\u010dani i zeleni, premda jo\u0161 katkad zapu\u0161e ne posve proljetni povjetarac.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:20px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading_765491-aa, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading_765491-aa[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading_765491-aa\"]{text-align:center;font-style:normal;text-transform:uppercase;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading_765491-aa mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading_765491-aa[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading_765491-aa\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading_765491-aa img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading_765491-aa[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading_765491-aa\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}<\/style>\n<h2 class=\"kt-adv-heading_765491-aa wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading_765491-aa\">Les Frivolit\u00e9s<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:20px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-medium\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/IMG_20191030_114428-01-300x225.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-37722\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/IMG_20191030_114428-01-300x225.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/IMG_20191030_114428-01-1400x1050.jpeg 1400w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/IMG_20191030_114428-01-768x576.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/IMG_20191030_114428-01-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/IMG_20191030_114428-01-scaled.jpeg 1867w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Note&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/www.jacques-fath-parfums.com\/en\/shop\/les-frivolites\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">prema slu\u017ebenoj stranici<\/a>:<br>Vrh &#8211; bergamot, paradisamid (Givaudanova sirovina &#8211; nota tropskog vo\u0107a s licima guave, grejpa, ribizla), osmantus, crveni papar<br>Sredina &#8211; rosa centifolia absolut, &#8220;akord makarona s okusom ru\u017ee&#8221;<br>Dno &#8211; antoilop, iris, sandalovina, ambra, mo\u0161us<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Ovaj prvi dojam ne bih propustila napisati samo zbog naziva parfema &#8211;&nbsp;<em>Les Frivolit\u00e9s<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Jako volim pojam &#8220;<em>frivolno<\/em>&#8220;: volim njegovu unutra\u0161nju kontradiktornost, volim i pozitivan i negativan sloj zna\u010denja, volim lepr\u0161avu povr\u0161nost kao rijetku privilegiju koju nije lako namjerno ni posti\u0107i ni zadr\u017eati, niti parfemski, a niti ina\u010de. Frivolnost do\u017eivljavam kao uglavnom kratkotrajan plod ili bla\u017eene neosvije\u0161tenosti, neznanja ili nezrelosti, ili kao posljedicu duboke promi\u0161ljenosti, zrelosti i samokontrole, a nerijetko i iskusne ravnodu\u0161nosti kombinirane s vedrim duhom.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>O\u010dekivanja prema parfemu bila su stoga obojena njegovim imenom i pitanjem kako miri\u0161e frivolna parfemska kompozicija s ru\u017eom u centru?<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Miri\u0161e &#8211; frivolno. Doista.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>Les Frivolit\u00e9s<\/em>&nbsp;se otvara nje\u017eno, pastelno vo\u0107no, pomalo \u010dak i \u017evakasto, a nje\u017eno roza i doista lijepa ru\u017ea ubrzo izbija u prvi plan samo da bi pokazala kako&nbsp;<em>frivolno<\/em>&nbsp;pa\u0161e sa svime: i sa slatkom vo\u0107no\u0161\u0107u i ne\u0161to ni\u017ee niz razvoj s makaronima, koji miri\u0161u blago gurmanski poput slatki\u0161a, ali ne i preslatko \u0161e\u0107erasto.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ru\u017ea i sama funkcionira kao makaron\u010di\u0107 punjen pastom tropskog vo\u0107a ili vo\u0107nog osmantusa iz otvaranja, a koji posve frivolno grcne\u0161 usput, jer razlika izme\u0111u mirisa ru\u017ee i makarona namirisanog ru\u017eom zapravo i nije sudbinski va\u017ena, ako je dojam sli\u010dan: lagan, slatko poznat i neobvezuju\u0107, lepr\u0161avo svidljiv.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ni\u017ee niz razvoj, svje\u017ea ru\u017eina slatko\u0107a se pone\u0161to povla\u010di i istupa antilopasta ko\u017ea, svijetla i tanka, vi\u0161e kao modni detalj koji mo\u017eda sugerira &#8220;ne\u0161to konkretno&#8221;, a mo\u017eda i ne.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Mlada roza vo\u0107no-makaronski slatkasta ru\u017ea, a potom ko\u017eno-bar\u0161unaste ru\u017ea u drydownu odlazi u suptilno slojevit, a ipak nekako neutralan i posve neobvezuju\u0107 spoj mekog, nenametljivog mo\u0161usa i neutralnog, gotovo mimikri\u010dnog irisa, s minimalno drvenih primjesa.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I to je to.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Zgodno, nepretenciozno poznato, dobro postavljeno, ali neobvezuju\u0107e u svakom smislu, i mirisnom, i spekulativnom, i emotivnom.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:20px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading_12d528-0b, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading_12d528-0b[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading_12d528-0b\"]{text-align:center;font-style:normal;text-transform:uppercase;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading_12d528-0b mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading_12d528-0b[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading_12d528-0b\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading_12d528-0b img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading_12d528-0b[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading_12d528-0b\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}<\/style>\n<h2 class=\"kt-adv-heading_12d528-0b wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading_12d528-0b\">Rosso Epicureo<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:20px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-medium\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/IMG_20191030_113050-01-225x300.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-37724\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/IMG_20191030_113050-01-225x300.jpeg 225w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/IMG_20191030_113050-01-1051x1400.jpeg 1051w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/IMG_20191030_113050-01-768x1023.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/IMG_20191030_113050-01-1154x1536.jpeg 1154w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/IMG_20191030_113050-01-scaled.jpeg 1400w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Note&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/www.jacques-fath-parfums.com\/en\/shop\/rosso-epicureo\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">prema slu\u017ebenoj stranici<\/a>:<br>Vrh &#8211; Kir Royal akord, gorka naran\u010da, bergamot, \u0161ljiva<br>Sredina &#8211; absolut tuberoze, damaskanska ru\u017ea, naran\u010din cvijet, jasmin, ylang-ylang<br>Dno &#8211; pa\u010duli, ambra, vanilija, muscone<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p><em>Rosso Epicureo<\/em>&nbsp;je (uz&nbsp;<em>Les Frivolit\u00e9s<\/em>) druga obrada ru\u017ee u ovom setu, no posve druga\u010dija. Ru\u017ea je ovdje dio glasnog cvjetnog buketa te supostavljena i\/ili suprotstavljena tuberozi, bijelom cvije\u0107u i slatkom koktelu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ni manje ni vi\u0161e.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ili &#8211; di \u0107e\u0161 vi\u0161e, kad ve\u0107 naslov sugerira hedonizam.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Evo \u0161to kartica ka\u017ee:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>Rosso Epicureo<\/em>&nbsp;je proslava radosti \u017eivljenja pjenu\u0161avim akordom francuskog koktela Kir Royal (koji se, za razliku od klasi\u010dnog Kira, umjesto s vinom radi sa \u0161ampanjcem, a osnovu mu \u010dini krema od ribizla). Kir Royal akordu dodana je karnalna tuberoza, bijelo cvije\u0107e i damaskanska ru\u017ea.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Na prvi njuh, a i na svaki sljede\u0107i, pomislila sam kako je ovo definitivno parfem za \u017eene koje su \u010dvrsto odlu\u010dile oma\u0111ijati svijet glasnim cvjetnim overloadom, i to nakon \u0161to su, udovoljavaju\u0107i prvom dijelu epikurejskih poriva,&nbsp; popile koju kapljicu likera (a nije da slatko ne zna zavarati).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nemam ni\u0161ta niti protiv kraljevski zamamne ru\u017ee niti protiv iskonski karnalne tuberoze. \u0160tovi\u0161e, svaki taj uspje\u0161an spoj smatram vrlo dobrodo\u0161lim, dapa\u010de, kako u parfemima, tako i ina\u010de.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Me\u0111utim,&nbsp;<em>Rosso Epicureo<\/em>&nbsp;&nbsp;nije spoj koji bih nosila na svojoj ko\u017ei:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ru\u017ea je prije ocvala nego \u0161to se rascvala, tuberoza je u teturavoj u pozi za zavo\u0111enje prezentirala svoje meso, ali ne i iskru \u017eive tjelesnosti, ostalo cvije\u0107e napravilo je napornu gu\u017evu, a nad svime lebdi ote\u017ealo-sladak miris zagu\u0161enog i prenakrcanog prostora.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Duboki drydown miri\u0161e mutno i pomalo kao &#8220;izno\u0161en parfem&#8221; u kojem nedefinirani fragmenti cvjetnog srca proviruju iz zagu\u0161uju\u0107e mje\u0161avine ambre, mo\u0161usa i pa\u010dulija, koji dodatno potcrtava dojam zagu\u0161enosti i izno\u0161enosti.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Premda ne miri\u0161e parfemski poznato,&nbsp;<em>Rosso Epicureo<\/em>&nbsp;ipak mi miri\u0161e poznato kao retro prenaki\u0107ena i prena\u0161minkana \u017eena neprofilirane osobnosti koja se trudi previ\u0161e, smije preglasno, namje\u0161ta preo\u010dito i onako&#8230; nije da ne cijenim trud i nije da ne mogu razumjeti, bude mi \u010dak i malo \u017eao, ali se ipak dr\u017eim podalje.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ni\u0161ta u parfemu nisam do\u017eivjela epikurejski hedonisti\u010dno, samo pretjerano, a nedefinirano.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Maffeijev Fath Essentials Volume 2 je lako nosiva, nezahtjevna i vedra cjelina. Kolekciju \u010dine dominantno cvjetne kreacije, izgra\u0111ene oko mimoze, jorgovana, ru\u017ee i rasko\u0161nog i razmetnog buketa. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":37705,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_kad_blocks_custom_css":"","_kad_blocks_head_custom_js":"","_kad_blocks_body_custom_js":"","_kad_blocks_footer_custom_js":"","_kad_post_transparent":"","_kad_post_title":"","_kad_post_layout":"","_kad_post_sidebar_id":"","_kad_post_content_style":"","_kad_post_vertical_padding":"","_kad_post_feature":"","_kad_post_feature_position":"","_kad_post_header":false,"_kad_post_footer":false,"_kad_post_classname":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[1666],"tags":[],"kreator":[1974],"topic":[3905],"brand":[2388],"parfemska_grupa":[2018],"note":[2767,2681,2181],"organization":[],"osobe":[],"serijal":[],"class_list":["post-37719","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-parfemi","kreator-luca-maffei-2","topic-recenzije","brand-jacques-fath-hr","parfemska_grupa-cvjetni","note-jorgovan","note-mimoza","note-ruza"],"acf":{"show_related_posts":false,"related-post_1":null,"related-post_2":null,"related-post_3":null,"related-post_4":null,"related-post_5":null,"related-post_6":null,"related-post_7":null,"related-post_8":null,"related-post_9":null,"related-post_10":null},"taxonomy_info":{"category":[{"value":1666,"label":"Parfemi"}],"kreator":[{"value":1974,"label":"Luca Maffei"}],"topic":[{"value":3905,"label":"Recenzije"}],"brand":[{"value":2388,"label":"Jacques Fath"}],"parfemska_grupa":[{"value":2018,"label":"Cvjetni"}],"note":[{"value":2767,"label":"Jorgovan"},{"value":2681,"label":"Mimoza"},{"value":2181,"label":"Ru\u017ea"}]},"featured_image_src_large":["https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/IMG_20191030_093921-02-1400x788.jpeg",1360,765,true],"author_info":{"display_name":"Iva Mirisna","author_link":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/author\/miradmin\/"},"comment_info":0,"category_info":[{"term_id":1666,"name":"Parfemi","slug":"parfemi","term_group":0,"term_taxonomy_id":1666,"taxonomy":"category","description":"Recenzije parfema, naglasci i nova izdanja","parent":0,"count":113,"filter":"raw","term_order":"0","cat_ID":1666,"category_count":113,"category_description":"Recenzije parfema, naglasci i nova izdanja","cat_name":"Parfemi","category_nicename":"parfemi","category_parent":0}],"tag_info":false,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/37719","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=37719"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/37719\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/37705"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=37719"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=37719"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=37719"},{"taxonomy":"kreator","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/kreator?post=37719"},{"taxonomy":"topic","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/topic?post=37719"},{"taxonomy":"brand","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/brand?post=37719"},{"taxonomy":"parfemska_grupa","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/parfemska_grupa?post=37719"},{"taxonomy":"note","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/note?post=37719"},{"taxonomy":"organization","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/organization?post=37719"},{"taxonomy":"osobe","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/osobe?post=37719"},{"taxonomy":"serijal","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/serijal?post=37719"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}