{"id":37692,"date":"2019-09-20T12:16:00","date_gmt":"2019-09-20T10:16:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/?p=37692"},"modified":"2025-05-16T22:04:46","modified_gmt":"2025-05-16T20:04:46","slug":"rose-cuir-2019-editions-de-parfums-frederic-malle","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/rose-cuir-2019-editions-de-parfums-frederic-malle\/","title":{"rendered":"Rose &#038; Cuir  &#8211; Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p class=\"has-drop-cap\">Definitivno spadam u grupu fanova Rose&amp;Cuir, a izgleda i me\u0111u grupije <strong>Jean-Claude Ellene.<\/strong> Sample Rose&amp;Cuir stigao je do mene svega desetak dana nakon promocije parfema i to zato jer iznad nas postoji parfemska kozmi\u010dka pravda koju dijeli vi\u0161a parfemska sila, a ona se katkad ipak smiluje i neo\u010dekivano nagradi ustrajne i odane.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Vrijedi skrenuti pa\u017enju na fenomenalan historijat nastanka\u00a0<em>Rose&amp;Cuir<\/em>. Objavio ga je Perfume Society u obliku screenshoota izvorne on-line prepiske izme\u0111u Frederica Mallea i Jean-Claude Ellene.<br>\u010clanak\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/perfumesociety.org\/the-modern-way-of-creating-perfume-via-text\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><strong>&#8220;The modern way of creating perfume \u2013 via text!&#8221; je\u00a0ovdje.<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Odmah po\u010detno: ja sam fan i ru\u017ee &#8211; koje ovdje nema, ali je itekako ima, jer miri\u0161e, i ko\u017ee, i to prave pravcate \u010dvrste, \u0161tavljene, old fashioned ko\u017ee, bar jednako ako ne i vi\u0161e od mekih ko\u017ea i bar\u0161unastih antilopa te razli\u010ditih soft focus rukavice\/torbica-ko\u017ea. Mo\u017eda je to zato jer je ova \u010dvrsta, \u017eilava, gotovo gorka isobutyl quinolinska ko\u017ea rijetka i skoro izumrla, a mo\u017eda je to i posljedica odrastanja i \u017eivljenja s istovrsnim ko\u017enim mirisima, klasicima izgra\u0111enim na spoju koji \u0107ete lijepo li lako namirisati kao nositelja ko\u017ene note ako uzmete, primjerice, Bandit i niz mu\u0161kih ko\u017enih klasika.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Pri svakom no\u0161enju&nbsp;<em>Rose&amp;Cuir<\/em>&nbsp;se na mojoj ruci toliko puta zavrtio u krug da imam osje\u0107aj kako \u0107e mi trebati jo\u0161 vremena i jo\u0161 no\u0161enja da &#8220;uhvatim&#8221; ovaj parfem, a uhvatila sam ga u prvom no\u0161enju.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Paradoks ili proturje\u010dje? Ne, nije.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Rose&amp;Cuir je s jedne strane definirano intenzivan, a s druge kristalno transparentan, istovremeno tradicionalno ko\u017enat, ali i redefiniraju\u0107 prema cijeloj liniji ko\u017enih parfema koji po\u010divaju na isobutyl quinolinu.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ellenina ko\u017ea nije temelj u bazi parfema, do kojeg se sti\u017ee kad je mirisno putovanje zavr\u0161eno i ve\u0107im dijelom ve\u0107 izdefinirano. U&nbsp;<em>Rose&amp;Cuir&nbsp;<\/em>je&nbsp;Ellena je dominantnu notu koja u tradicionalnim ko\u017enim strukturama na baznoj horizontalnoj osi fiksira karakter parfema prebacio u parfemsku vertikalu, olak\u0161ao, pomladio i zaigrao, kako sa svojim vlastitim identitetom tako i sa sli\u010dnim identitetom&nbsp;ru\u017ee, koje ima i nema. Ovdje je isobutyl quinoline pomla\u0111en i podignut te u\u010dinjen transparentnim i laganim, a da ne gubi ni\u0161ta od intenziteta i karakteristi\u010dne mirisne \u010dvrsto\u0107e.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Tako\u0111er, hvataju\u0107i ru\u017eu du\u017e razvoja parfema, pratio me jasan osje\u0107aj da ju miri\u0161em cijelo vrijeme, ali da ova ru\u017ea ne \u017eeli biti fiksirana \u2013 ru\u017ea je istovremeno i cvjetna i zra\u010dna i biljna i apstraktna.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Neovisno o&nbsp;<em>ru\u017ei i ko\u017ei&nbsp;<\/em>ili ba\u0161 zahvaljuju\u0107i njima,\u010dini mi se da me Ellenina majstorska igra prisutnosti, materijalnosti i iluzije, uskra\u0107ivanja i darivanja, usmjerila prema mirisanju same biti parfema, ali ne samo ovog.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Svih parfema.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Prvi dojam za R&amp;C &#8211;&nbsp;<em>O DA!<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Rose&#038;Cuir je s jedne strane intenzivan, a s druge kristalno 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