{"id":3433,"date":"2019-04-29T09:18:00","date_gmt":"2019-04-29T07:18:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/scented-shelf.com\/2019\/04\/rochas-tocade\/"},"modified":"2025-05-14T17:33:24","modified_gmt":"2025-05-14T15:33:24","slug":"rochas-tocade","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/rochas-tocade\/","title":{"rendered":"Tocade \/ Rochas"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p class=\"has-drop-cap\"><em>Tocade<\/em>&nbsp;sam nabavila pro\u0161log prolje\u0107a kako bih malo popunila &#8220;rupe&#8221; u op\u0107em parfemskom obrazovanju, a malo nadaju\u0107i se da \u0107e spoj ru\u017ee i vanilije koji potpisuje master-nos <strong>Maurice Roucel<\/strong> zadovoljiti moje potrebe za slatkim.&nbsp; <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Tijekom tog prolje\u0107a, uz ne\u0161to malo \u0161prickanja na ruku (bez nekog no\u0161enja) ljetos te po\u010detkom pro\u0161le tople jeseni, uporno me ne\u0161to smetalo: \u010dinilo mi se (i jasno se toga sje\u0107am) da miri\u0161ljavo ultimativno ljubak, \u017eenstven spoj ru\u017ee, magnolije i slatke, jestive vanilije na pone\u0161to \u010dvr\u0161\u0107oj drvenkasto-ambrastoj podlozi nekako &#8220;kvari&#8221; disbalans ne\u010deg &#8220;zelenog&#8221; i svje\u017eeg \u010demu, po meni, tada, nije tu&nbsp; bilo mjesto, a pretpostavljala sam da su to \u0111ur\u0111ice, frezija, ili mo\u017eda zelenkast jasmin&#8230; <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u010cak mi je, na umjerenim i toplim temperaturama, bio i &#8220;retro&#8221;, na ne-dobar na\u010din. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Na meni je umjereno i toplije vrijeme istaknulo onu &#8220;perfumy&#8221; karakteristiku ranih 90-ih. Tocade nije mirisala kao da je natapirana i ima ramena podstavljena jastu\u010di\u0107ima, ve\u0107 vi\u0161e kao da je sve zapravo ok&#8230; osim \u0161to je kragna malo demode, a i ne\u0161to je s tim lan\u010di\u0107em, ipak   <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>No, u odnosu na sve klasi\u010dne predstavnike tog doba i te parfemske estetike, u ovom parfemu radi se, i u toplijim uvjetima, o nenametjivom sloju, gotovo sugestiji. &nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Zimus, dok su se vani temperature vrtile izme\u0111u 5 i 0, u kontinentu je bio snijeg, a ovdje je vitlala bura, stavila sam Tocade \u010disto da provjerim kako se ovaj parfem pona\u0161a po nemilostrdnoj hladno\u0107i, a Tocade je mirisao i mirisao i mirisao to\u010dno onako kako sam zami\u0161ljala \u010ditaju\u0107i hvalospjeve. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Zeleni &#8220;disbalans&#8221; koji me iritirao na vi\u0161im temperaturama pojela je zima, odgrizla je i retro-filing, a ostalo je samo ono \u010demu sam se nadala prije nego \u0161to sam preuranjeno proslijedila ve\u0107i dio bo\u010dice: \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Slatke, kandirane, jestive ru\u017eine latice, na podlozi od mirisne, slatko jestive vanilije, na masivnom tanjuru od najfinijeg drva, uglancanom do pune topline zlatne ambre.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Razli\u010dit od &#8220;boozy&#8221;, punokrvnih i ogromnih Montaleovih i Macerinih ru\u017ea, Tocade kao da je izgra\u0111en od mekih crvenih i rozih ru\u017einih latica.&nbsp; <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ako ste probali u\u0161e\u0107erene ru\u017eine latice &#8211; to je to.&nbsp; &nbsp; <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Tocade je ru\u017ein gurmanac klasi\u010dne kompozicije, bez vo\u0107nog soka i fruktoze, topao, voluminozan, dubok i vrlo obao, ali i nepretenciozan (ne i frivolan, ili banalan), a sna\u017eno prisutan i vrlo \u017eenskast, kao da postoji samo zato da bude \u017eenstven, na neki mio-drag, topao na\u010din. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Koketno i ljupko lijepo.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/PSX_232.jpg\" alt=\"Tocade Rochas\" class=\"wp-image-3616\" width=\"404\" height=\"413\" title=\"Rochas-Tocade\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/PSX_232.jpg 538w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/PSX_232-293x300.jpg 293w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 404px) 100vw, 404px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Nastanak Tocade je i primjer kako komercijalni uspjeh parfema u \u010dijoj formuli je prvi puta upotrijebljen novi materijal mo\u017ee trajno izmijeniti globalnu sliku parfemske ponude.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Maurice Roucel je u Tocade vrlo diskretno upotrijebio ulje magnolijinog cvijeta, tada tek predstavljenu novu parfemsku sirovinu, koja je danas vrlo eksploatirana i prisutna u brojnim i designers i niche parfemima, upravo zahvaljuju\u0107i uspjehu Roucelove Tocade.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Radilo se o prirodnom materijalu, inicijalno proizvo\u0111enom u malim koli\u010dinama, a uprtavo komercijalni uspjeh Tocade u\u010dinio je materijal poznatim, proizvodnju isplativom, godi\u0161nje proiuzvedene koli\u010dine dostupnijima, materijal jeftinijim, a sve je to posljedi\u010dno utjecalo na uklju\u010divanje ulja magnolijinog cvijeta u formule drugih parfema.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Posljedi\u010dno, od snage mirisne industrije da pokrene proizvodnju prirodne sirovine u drugom dijelu svijeta profitirali i mali nezavisni brendovi, koji sami, na temelju uspjeha jednog svog parfema\/jedne formule u pravilu nemaju dovoljno snage generirati proizvodnju nove sirovine, ili ju nabavljaju te\u0161ko i skuplje. <\/p>\n\n\n<style>.kadence-column_d56fba-43 > .kt-inside-inner-col{padding-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-lg, 3rem);padding-right:var(--global-kb-spacing-lg, 3rem);padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-lg, 3rem);padding-left:var(--global-kb-spacing-lg, 3rem);}.kadence-column_d56fba-43 > .kt-inside-inner-col{border-top:1px solid var(--global-palette3, #1A202C);border-right:1px solid var(--global-palette3, #1A202C);border-bottom:1px solid var(--global-palette3, #1A202C);border-left:1px solid var(--global-palette3, #1A202C);}.kadence-column_d56fba-43 > .kt-inside-inner-col,.kadence-column_d56fba-43 > .kt-inside-inner-col:before{border-top-left-radius:0px;border-top-right-radius:0px;border-bottom-right-radius:0px;border-bottom-left-radius:0px;}.kadence-column_d56fba-43 > .kt-inside-inner-col{column-gap:var(--global-kb-gap-sm, 1rem);}.kadence-column_d56fba-43 > .kt-inside-inner-col{flex-direction:column;}.kadence-column_d56fba-43 > .kt-inside-inner-col > .aligncenter{width:100%;}.kadence-column_d56fba-43 > .kt-inside-inner-col:before{opacity:0.3;}.kadence-column_d56fba-43{position:relative;}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.kadence-column_d56fba-43 > .kt-inside-inner-col{border-top:1px solid var(--global-palette3, #1A202C);border-right:1px solid var(--global-palette3, #1A202C);border-bottom:1px solid var(--global-palette3, #1A202C);border-left:1px solid var(--global-palette3, #1A202C);flex-direction:column;justify-content:center;}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.kadence-column_d56fba-43 > .kt-inside-inner-col{padding-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-lg, 3rem);padding-right:var(--global-kb-spacing-xs, 1rem);padding-left:var(--global-kb-spacing-xs, 1rem);border-top:1px solid var(--global-palette3, #1A202C);border-right:1px solid var(--global-palette3, #1A202C);border-bottom:1px solid var(--global-palette3, #1A202C);border-left:1px solid var(--global-palette3, #1A202C);flex-direction:column;justify-content:center;}}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-column kadence-column_d56fba-43\"><div class=\"kt-inside-inner-col\"><style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading_0c7026-54, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading_0c7026-54[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading_0c7026-54\"]{padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-sm, 1.5rem);text-align:center;font-style:normal;text-transform:uppercase;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading_0c7026-54 mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading_0c7026-54[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading_0c7026-54\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading_0c7026-54 img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading_0c7026-54[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading_0c7026-54\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}<\/style>\n<h4 class=\"kt-adv-heading_0c7026-54 wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading_0c7026-54\">IZ intervjua MAURICEA ROUCELa za Fragranticu<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>&#8220;<em>To je sirovi materijal koji je predstavljen tr\u017ei\u0161tu ba\u0161 u vrijeme kada smo stvarali Tocade. 1991. ili tako ne\u0161to. <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>Materijal je bilo ulje magnolijinog cvijeta, a tada ga je u Kini bilo proizvedeno svega 500 grama. <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>Prijateljica iz Laboratorie Monique Remi, koja se vratila iz Kine, predstavila mi je tu sirovinu i pitala me bih li ju mogao iskoristiti. Za\u0161to ne, interesantna je.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>Bio sam u mogu\u0107nosti uklju\u010diti ju u formulu Tocade, ali sam morao biti vrlo pa\u017eljiv, budu\u0107i da je produkcija magnolijinog ulja u to vrijeme bila vrlo niska (prva produkcija Tocade je bila 20 tona, pa je prema tome omjer bio 1:1000). <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>Dakle, da nisam upotrijebio ulje magnolijinog cvijeta, Kinezi ne bi bili zainteresirani za uzgajanje magnolije i proizvodnju parfemske sirovine, pa ulje ne bi do\u0161lo do komercijalnog tr\u017ei\u0161ta, a da sam stavio ve\u0107i omjer magnolijinog ulja u formulu, s postoje\u0107om koli\u010dinom proizvedene sirovine ne bi se mogle zadovoljiti potrebe proizvodnje Tocadea. <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>Mislim da trebam biti vrlo pa\u017eljiv kada koristim ovakvu vrstu nove sirovine, ona je poput djeteta, po\u010detna produkcija je vrlo malena, a onda raste, ako parfem postane uspje\u0161an. <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>Danas se proizvodnja magnolije mjeri u tonama.<\/em>&#8220;<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading_f8891c-41, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading_f8891c-41[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading_f8891c-41\"]{font-size:var(--global-kb-font-size-sm, 0.9rem);font-style:normal;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading_f8891c-41 mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading_f8891c-41[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading_f8891c-41\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading_f8891c-41 img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading_f8891c-41[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading_f8891c-41\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading_f8891c-41[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading_f8891c-41\"] a, .kt-adv-heading-link_f8891c-41, .kt-adv-heading-link_f8891c-41 .kt-adv-heading_f8891c-41[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading_f8891c-41\"]{color:var(--global-palette1, #3182CE);}<\/style>\n<h6 class=\"kt-adv-heading_f8891c-41 wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading_f8891c-41\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.fragrantica.com\/news\/WPC-2018-Fragrantica-interviews-Maurice-Roucel-11013.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">WPC 2018: Fragrantica interviews Maurice Roucel by&nbsp;Matvey Yudov,&nbsp;Sergey Borisov<\/a><\/h6>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Opis i note sa <a href=\"http:\/\/rochas.com\/en\/fragrance\/women\/tocade\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">slu\u017ebene stranice<\/a>:<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/pixlr_20190429095307100-1024x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Tocade Rochas - opis\" class=\"wp-image-3618\" width=\"512\" height=\"512\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/pixlr_20190429095307100-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/pixlr_20190429095307100-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/pixlr_20190429095307100-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/pixlr_20190429095307100-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/pixlr_20190429095307100.jpg 1400w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 512px) 100vw, 512px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Tocade je ru\u017ein gurmanac klasi\u010dne kompozicije, bez vo\u0107nog soka i fruktoze, topao, obao i koketan, kao da postoji samo zato da bude \u017eenstven, na neki mio-drag na\u010din.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":25686,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_kad_blocks_custom_css":"","_kad_blocks_head_custom_js":"","_kad_blocks_body_custom_js":"","_kad_blocks_footer_custom_js":"","_kad_post_transparent":"","_kad_post_title":"","_kad_post_layout":"","_kad_post_sidebar_id":"","_kad_post_content_style":"","_kad_post_vertical_padding":"","_kad_post_feature":"","_kad_post_feature_position":"","_kad_post_header":false,"_kad_post_footer":false,"_kad_post_classname":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[1666],"tags":[],"kreator":[2825],"topic":[3742,3905],"brand":[2678],"parfemska_grupa":[2037],"note":[2181,2143],"organization":[],"osobe":[],"serijal":[],"class_list":["post-3433","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-parfemi","kreator-maurice-roucel","topic-klasici","topic-recenzije","brand-rochas","parfemska_grupa-cvjetno-ambreni","note-ruza","note-vanilija"],"acf":{"show_related_posts":false,"related-post_1":null,"related-post_2":null,"related-post_3":null,"related-post_4":null,"related-post_5":null,"related-post_6":null,"related-post_7":null,"related-post_8":null,"related-post_9":null,"related-post_10":null},"taxonomy_info":{"category":[{"value":1666,"label":"Parfemi"}],"kreator":[{"value":2825,"label":"Maurice 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