{"id":3418,"date":"2019-05-15T19:18:00","date_gmt":"2019-05-15T17:18:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/scented-shelf.com\/2019\/05\/usporedni-test-van-cleef-arpels-ambre\/"},"modified":"2025-05-27T12:42:41","modified_gmt":"2025-05-27T10:42:41","slug":"usporedni-test-van-cleef-arpels-ambre","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/usporedni-test-van-cleef-arpels-ambre\/","title":{"rendered":"Ambre Imperial\/Van Cleef&amp;Arpels i L&#8217;Ambre des Merveilles \/ Herm\u00e8s"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p class=\"has-drop-cap\">Visok broj iskazivanja sli\u010dnosti na <em>Fragrantici<\/em>, pa i <em>Punom mirisu <\/em>naveo me da izravno usporedim <strong>Jean-Claude Elleninu<\/strong><a href=\"https:\/\/mirisna-polica.blogspot.com\/2019\/04\/hermesova-merveilles-linija-eau-i-lambre.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"> L&#8217;Ambre des Merveilles<\/a> (2012.) za <em>Hermes <\/em>i <a href=\"https:\/\/mirisna-polica.blogspot.com\/2019\/05\/van-cleef-arpels-collection.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Ambre Imperial<\/a><strong>Quentina Bicsha<\/strong> (2015.) iz Van Cleef &amp; Arpelsove <em>Collection Extraordinaire<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Mirisna sli\u010dnost doista postoji i nije zanemariva, osobito u prvim etapama razvoja ovih parfema:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Srce parfema &#8211; gurmanska i topla vanili\u010dnost zdru\u017eena s laganom, svijetlom ambrom &#8211; miri\u0161e doista nepogre\u0161ivo blisko. Biskost je tolika da su asocijacije i povezivanje ova dva parfema doista i mogu\u0107i, i utemeljeni.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>No, u L&#8217;Ambre des Merveilles ubrzo po otvaranju na povr\u0161inu izlazi karakteristi\u010dan slankast DNA cijele linije, dok Ambre Imperial na po\u010detku razvoja nasuprot tome ima izra\u017een citrusno-paprasti aromatiziraju\u0107i sloj.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>U ostalim slojevima i kasnijem razvoju vi\u0161e je razli\u010ditog, nego sli\u010dnog:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>U sredini razvoja L&#8217;Ambre des Merveilles difuzno svjetluca, ne\u0161to je laganija i donekle djeluje prozra\u010dnije i svje\u017eije, iako je koli\u010dina topline i slatko\u0107e otprilike tu negdje. Tako\u0111er, L&#8217;Ambre des Merveilles posjeduje blagu dozu animali\u010dnosti, koja u Ambre Imperial potpuno izostaje.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nasuprot tome, blaga pudrastost (koje u Hermesovoj ambri nema) te balzami\u010dnost poja\u010dana benzoinom \u010dine Ambre Imperial ne\u0161to kompaktnijim i punijim parfemom.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>U dubljem drydownu razlike su najizra\u017eenije:<br>Iako im je trajnost otprilike ista, Ambre des Merveilles puno ranije sti\u017ee do finalne faze svog razvoja.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Tako\u0111er, drveni karakter pa\u010dulija u bazi L&#8217;Ambre des Merveilles razli\u010dit je od drvenkastosti baze u Ambre Imperial te uz blagu zemljanost izra\u017eeno opona\u0161a tjelesni miris ugrijane, slankasto-slatke ko\u017ee.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ovaj efekt Ambre Imperial nema.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Iako nosi ambru u imenu, u bazi Ambre Imperial dominira balzami\u010dno slatka kombinacija benzoin, vanilije i drvenaste tonke pa je baza i sla\u0111a i punija, a ostavlja i formalniji dojam.&nbsp;Zadnji tragovi prisutnosti Ambre Imperial na ko\u017ei su pudrasti, slatki i suhi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ambre Imperial tako\u0111er je zna\u010dajno vi\u0161e &#8220;perfumy&#8221; od L&#8217;Ambre des Merveilles koja, \u0161to dublje ulazi u drydown, vje\u0161tije izbjegava ovu karakteristiku.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.kb-image215350_31044f-b4.kb-image-is-ratio-size, .kb-image215350_31044f-b4 .kb-image-is-ratio-size{max-width:550px;width:100%;}.wp-block-kadence-column > .kt-inside-inner-col > .kb-image215350_31044f-b4.kb-image-is-ratio-size, .wp-block-kadence-column > .kt-inside-inner-col > .kb-image215350_31044f-b4 .kb-image-is-ratio-size{align-self:unset;}.kb-image215350_31044f-b4 figure{max-width:550px;}.kb-image215350_31044f-b4 .image-is-svg, .kb-image215350_31044f-b4 .image-is-svg img{width:100%;}.kb-image215350_31044f-b4 .kb-image-has-overlay:after{opacity:0.3;}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-image kb-image215350_31044f-b4\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"843\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/IMG_20190515_122440-01-843x1024.jpeg\" alt=\"Ambre Imperial Van Cleef&amp;Arpels L&#039;Ambre des Merveilles Hermes\" class=\"kb-img wp-image-3669\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/IMG_20190515_122440-01-843x1024.jpeg 843w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/IMG_20190515_122440-01-247x300.jpeg 247w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/IMG_20190515_122440-01-768x933.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/IMG_20190515_122440-01-1264x1536.jpeg 1264w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/IMG_20190515_122440-01.jpeg 1317w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 843px) 100vw, 843px\" \/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>S obzirom na sli\u010dnost glavnog akorda, razlike bih prije smjestila u podru\u010dje karaktera parfema: Hermesova, odnosno Ellenina ambra je nekako intimnija, senzualnija i lak\u0161a te manje &#8220;perfumy&#8221;, Bischova VCA ambra je ne\u0161to kompaktnija, gurmanskija i formalnija.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>No, kako zapravo uop\u0107e nisam posve sigurna bih li razlike koje pobli\u017ee definiraju ove parfeme uspjela primijetiti s prikladne socijalne udaljenosti onoliko jasno koliko ih razabirem izravno sa svojih ruku, osobama koje imaju afinitet prema bilo kojoj od ovih ambri (ili im se svi\u0111a srce bilo kojeg od ovih parfema) ostavila bih procjenu jesu li na mirisnoj polici uistinu neophodna oba.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>U kona\u010dnici, \u010dini mi se da odluka o boljem (ili eventualno o oba) ne\u0107e biti vezana uz toplo i slatko srce parfema, nego uz aran\u017eman uokolo njega:&nbsp; drvenkastost i tonkinu pudrastost u drydownu Ambre Imperial, odnosno blagu slankastost i animali\u010dnost L&#8217;Ambre des Merveilles.<br>Ukoliko vam razli\u010dito nijansiranje glavnog akorda ne igra preveliku ulogu, jedan od ova dva parfema mogao bi se pokazati suvi\u0161an.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Iako su oba parfema nosiva su kroz cijelu godinu, \u010dak i u toplijim danima, pudrasta, malo za\u010dinjenija i sla\u0111a te ne\u0161to kompaktnija Ambre Imperial mogla bi biti prvi izbor u&nbsp; jesensko\/zimskim rotacijama.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Kada se radi o kvaliteti i performansama, oba parfema \u010dine mi se kao jednako vrijedne opcije.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Razlika je manje vezana uz toplo i slatko srce parfema, a vi\u0161e uz aran\u017eman uokolo ambrenog akorda:\u00a0 drvenkastost i tonkinu pudrastost u drydownu Ambre Imperial, odnosno blagu slankastost i animali\u010dnost L&#8217;Ambre des Merveilles.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":25593,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_kad_blocks_custom_css":"","_kad_blocks_head_custom_js":"","_kad_blocks_body_custom_js":"","_kad_blocks_footer_custom_js":"","_kad_post_transparent":"","_kad_post_title":"","_kad_post_layout":"","_kad_post_sidebar_id":"","_kad_post_content_style":"","_kad_post_vertical_padding":"","_kad_post_feature":"","_kad_post_feature_position":"","_kad_post_header":false,"_kad_post_footer":false,"_kad_post_classname":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[1666],"tags":[],"kreator":[2672,2813],"topic":[3905],"brand":[2387,2766],"parfemska_grupa":[3258],"note":[1895],"organization":[],"osobe":[],"serijal":[],"class_list":["post-3418","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-parfemi","kreator-jean-claude-ellena","kreator-quentin-bisch","topic-recenzije","brand-hermes-hr","brand-van-cleef-arpels","parfemska_grupa-ambra","note-ambra"],"acf":{"show_related_posts":false,"related-post_1":null,"related-post_2":null,"related-post_3":null,"related-post_4":null,"related-post_5":null,"related-post_6":null,"related-post_7":null,"related-post_8":null,"related-post_9":null,"related-post_10":null},"taxonomy_info":{"category":[{"value":1666,"label":"Parfemi"}],"kreator":[{"value":2672,"label":"Jean-Claude Ellena"},{"value":2813,"label":"Quentin Bisch"}],"topic":[{"value":3905,"label":"Recenzije"}],"brand":[{"value":2387,"label":"Herm\u00e8s"},{"value":2766,"label":"Van Cleef &amp; 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