{"id":3416,"date":"2019-05-17T20:31:00","date_gmt":"2019-05-17T18:31:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/scented-shelf.com\/2019\/05\/bbc-jeva-dokumentarna-serija\/"},"modified":"2025-05-12T11:09:02","modified_gmt":"2025-05-12T09:09:02","slug":"bbc-jeva-dokumentarna-serija","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/bbc-jeva-dokumentarna-serija\/","title":{"rendered":"&#8220;Parfem&#8221; &#8211;  BBC-jeva dokumentarna serija"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>U tradiciji svojih najboljih dokumentaraca, <strong>BBC<\/strong> je tijekom 2010. godine snimio trodijelnu dokumentarnu seriju <strong>Parfem,<\/strong> koja se osvr\u0107e na pro\u0161lost parfumerstva i skre\u0107e pa\u017enju na smjerove kojima \u0107e ono krenuti u bliskoj budu\u0107nosti.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Serija dokumentira stanje industrije i trendove iz sada gotovo 15 godina stare perspektive, no sva razli\u010dita lica industrije, njeni pristupi, strategije i nali\u010dje svakog od njih jo\u0161 uvijek postoje, a sada\u0161nji trenutak pokazuje kako je ono \u0161to je prije 10 godina uo\u010deno kao trend postala stvarnost.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Pogled s odmakom od gotovo desetlje\u0107a &#8220;Parfem&#8221; ne \u010dini niti manje zanimljivim, niti manje aktualnim &#8211; upravo suprotno. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>&#8220;Parfem&#8221; donosi rijetke poslastice: nudi nam se prilika razgledati prostore u koje nije mogu\u0107e tako lako u\u0107i, poslu\u0161ati intervjue s parfemskim ikonama, vlasnicima parfemskih ku\u0107a i kreatorima parfema, managerima i kriti\u010darima, a imamo priliku vidjeti i neka lica koja su u trenutku nastajanja dokumentarca bila jo\u0161 posve anonimna, a danas su cijenjeni i ostvareni parfumeri.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Re\u017eiser serijala je Ian Denyer, a prva epizoda emitirana je 25.10.2011. na BBC Four.<br>Serija je dostupna preko YouTube kanala. <br>Na\u017ealost, HRT (za televizije iz okru\u017eenja ne znam) nije otkupio &#8220;<em>Parfem&#8221;<\/em>. <\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_4f6e72-f6, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_4f6e72-f6[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3416_4f6e72-f6\"]{padding-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-sm, 1.5rem);padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-xxs, 0.5rem);text-align:center;font-style:normal;text-transform:uppercase;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_4f6e72-f6 mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_4f6e72-f6[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3416_4f6e72-f6\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_4f6e72-f6 img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_4f6e72-f6[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3416_4f6e72-f6\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_4f6e72-f6, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_4f6e72-f6[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3416_4f6e72-f6\"]{text-align:center!important;}}<\/style>\n<h2 class=\"kt-adv-heading3416_4f6e72-f6 wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3416_4f6e72-f6\"> <a href=\"https:\/\/youtu.be\/annRzLYrRwM\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">&#8220;Something old, something new&#8221;<\/a><\/h2>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_55049f-4b, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_55049f-4b[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3416_55049f-4b\"]{padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-xs, 1rem);margin-top:0px;text-align:center;font-style:normal;text-transform:none;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_55049f-4b mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_55049f-4b[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3416_55049f-4b\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_55049f-4b img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_55049f-4b[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3416_55049f-4b\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_55049f-4b, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_55049f-4b[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3416_55049f-4b\"]{text-align:center!important;}}<\/style>\n<h3 class=\"kt-adv-heading3416_55049f-4b wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3416_55049f-4b\">1. epizoda<\/h3>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-image.kb-image3416_4ef4d6-52:not(.kb-specificity-added):not(.kb-extra-specificity-added){margin-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-lg, 3rem);margin-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-xl, 4rem);}.kb-image3416_4ef4d6-52.kb-image-is-ratio-size, .kb-image3416_4ef4d6-52 .kb-image-is-ratio-size{max-width:600px;width:100%;}.wp-block-kadence-column > .kt-inside-inner-col > .kb-image3416_4ef4d6-52.kb-image-is-ratio-size, .wp-block-kadence-column > .kt-inside-inner-col > .kb-image3416_4ef4d6-52 .kb-image-is-ratio-size{align-self:unset;}.kb-image3416_4ef4d6-52 figure{max-width:600px;}.kb-image3416_4ef4d6-52 .image-is-svg, .kb-image3416_4ef4d6-52 .image-is-svg img{width:100%;}.kb-image3416_4ef4d6-52 img.kb-img, .kb-image3416_4ef4d6-52 .kb-img img{box-shadow:0px 0px 14px 0px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.2);}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-image.kb-image3416_4ef4d6-52:not(.kb-specificity-added):not(.kb-extra-specificity-added){margin-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);}}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-image kb-image3416_4ef4d6-52\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><a href=\"https:\/\/youtu.be\/annRzLYrRwM\" class=\"kb-advanced-image-link\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/p01h4vxz.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"kb-img wp-image-161560\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/p01h4vxz.jpg 640w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/p01h4vxz-300x169.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/a><figcaption>Thierry Wasser, Guerlain<br>link: https:\/\/youtu.be\/annRzLYrRwM (kliknute na sliku)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Prva epizoda &#8211;&nbsp;<em>Ne\u0161to novo, ne\u0161to staro<\/em>&nbsp;&#8211; bavi se parfemskim ku\u0107ama i stanjem industrije &#8220;danas&#8221;, odnosno 2010. godine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Sadr\u017eaj prve epizode izgra\u0111en je na kontrastu:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Kamera bilje\u017ei zbivanja oko najstarije francuske parfemske ku\u0107e <strong>Guerlain<\/strong> &#8211; koja i identitetom a i nastupom figurira kao svojevrsno parfemsko plemstvo s bogatom povijesti prepunom uspjeha i zasluga, a nalazi se u krizi i nadomak prijelomnih \u0161to planiranih, \u0161to neplaniranih promjena. Scenarij dokumentarca nije ih mogao predvidjeti sve, ali ih je kamera uspjela zabilje\u017eiti na licima, prate\u0107i <strong>Thierryja Wassera<\/strong> kako uvodi promjene i kako postaje prvi glavni parfumer Guerlaina koji ne dolazi iz obitelji.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ovoj pri\u010di kontrastira pri\u010da o lansiranju novog parfema <strong>Tommy Hilfinhera&nbsp;<\/strong><em>Loud<\/em> (koji, sada\u0161nja perpektiva pokazuje, nije postigao zapa\u017een uspjeh i nije se odr\u017eao na tr\u017ei\u0161tu). <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Proces stvaranja parfema od ideje pa do bo\u010dice na polici robne ku\u0107e vodi managerica koncerna <strong>Estee Lauder<\/strong>, pod \u010dijom su kapom sva parfemska izdanja svih brendova \u010diju licencu Estee Lauder ima, te nam se prezentiraju pristupi, vrijednosti i ne manje bitno &#8211;<em> mindset<\/em>, i <em>interpersonalni odnosi<\/em> u parfemskoj industriji.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Hilfginger i &#8220;Loud&#8221; prikazani su kao prototip middle market brenda i onog \u0161to bi se moglo nazvati dana\u0161njim &#8220;parfemskom plebsom&#8221;, a proces stvaranja parfema zorno oslikava to\u010dno ono na \u0161to se <strong>Denyse Beaulieu<\/strong> osvrnula u svojoj knjizi &#8220;Perfume Lover&#8221; (ulomak sam prenijela <a href=\"https:\/\/mirisna-polica.blogspot.com\/2019\/05\/citamo-denyse-beaulieu-perfume-lover.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">ovdje<\/a> ). <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Kratki intervjui u obje pri\u010de&nbsp;<em>doista&nbsp;<\/em>na trenutke potresno&nbsp;razgoli\u0107uju i koncepte i osobnosti: upoznajemo Jean-Puaul Guerlaina i Thierryja Wassera, korporativno-personalne i marketin\u0161ke odnose u licencom odnosu Lauder\/Hilfinger. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Tako\u0111er, parfemoljupci imaju gotovo jedinstvenu priliku razgledati rezidenciju obitelji Guerlain te njen moderni, ali stari laboratorij, u kojem je stvaran Shalimar. <br>Nudi se i pogled na staru rukom pisanu knjigu prvih formula i recepata Guerlainovih klasika, nerestauriranu i neza\u0161ti\u0107enu, na\u017ealost.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Precizan i koncizan komentator strategija parfemske industrije , s posebnim osvrtom na vrlo konkuretnski middle market, koji \u010dine srednje rangirani parfemski brendovi je jedan od najpoznatijih parfemskih kriti\u010dara dana\u0161njice, aktivni kroni\u010dar te istra\u017eiva\u010d i prezentator parfemske povijesti, kolumnist New York Timesa, Chandler Burr.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_5ef7ef-0c, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_5ef7ef-0c[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3416_5ef7ef-0c\"]{padding-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-sm, 1.5rem);padding-bottom:0px;text-align:center;font-style:normal;text-transform:uppercase;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_5ef7ef-0c mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_5ef7ef-0c[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3416_5ef7ef-0c\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_5ef7ef-0c img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_5ef7ef-0c[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3416_5ef7ef-0c\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_5ef7ef-0c[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3416_5ef7ef-0c\"] a, a.kb-advanced-heading-link.kt-adv-heading-link3416_5ef7ef-0c{text-decoration:none;}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_5ef7ef-0c, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_5ef7ef-0c[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3416_5ef7ef-0c\"]{text-align:center!important;}}<\/style>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/youtu.be\/Cz3_tY6Ld5I\" class=\"kb-advanced-heading-link kt-adv-heading-link3416_5ef7ef-0c hls-none\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><h2 class=\"kt-adv-heading3416_5ef7ef-0c wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3416_5ef7ef-0c\"><a href=\"https:\/\/youtu.be\/Cz3_tY6Ld5I\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">&#8220;Bottling The Memory&#8221;<\/a><\/h2><\/a>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_7a7d8d-2b, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_7a7d8d-2b[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3416_7a7d8d-2b\"]{padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-xs, 1rem);margin-top:0px;text-align:center;font-style:normal;text-transform:none;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_7a7d8d-2b mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_7a7d8d-2b[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3416_7a7d8d-2b\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_7a7d8d-2b img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_7a7d8d-2b[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3416_7a7d8d-2b\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_7a7d8d-2b, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_7a7d8d-2b[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3416_7a7d8d-2b\"]{text-align:center!important;}}<\/style>\n<h3 class=\"kt-adv-heading3416_7a7d8d-2b wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3416_7a7d8d-2b\">2. epizoda<\/h3>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-image.kb-image3416_13f134-19:not(.kb-specificity-added):not(.kb-extra-specificity-added){margin-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-lg, 3rem);margin-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-lg, 3rem);}.kb-image3416_13f134-19.kb-image-is-ratio-size, .kb-image3416_13f134-19 .kb-image-is-ratio-size{max-width:600px;width:100%;}.wp-block-kadence-column > .kt-inside-inner-col > .kb-image3416_13f134-19.kb-image-is-ratio-size, .wp-block-kadence-column > .kt-inside-inner-col > .kb-image3416_13f134-19 .kb-image-is-ratio-size{align-self:unset;}.kb-image3416_13f134-19 figure{max-width:600px;}.kb-image3416_13f134-19 .image-is-svg, .kb-image3416_13f134-19 .image-is-svg img{width:100%;}.kb-image3416_13f134-19 img.kb-img, .kb-image3416_13f134-19 .kb-img img{box-shadow:0px 0px 14px 0px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.2);}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-image kb-image3416_13f134-19\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/p01h51m3.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"kb-img wp-image-161564\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/p01h51m3.jpg 640w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/p01h51m3-300x169.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><figcaption>Givaudan &#8211; Jean Giutchard i studenti (Quentin Bich), Grasse<br>link: https:\/\/youtu.be\/Cz3_tY6Ld5I (kliknite na sliku)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Druga epizoda zasniva se tako\u0111er na kontrastima, ali znatno suptilnijim:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Perspektiva se \u0161iri na niche, a dokumentarac predstavlja <strong>Christophera Brosiera<\/strong>, na \u010delu ku\u0107e <em>CB I hate perfumes<\/em> i njegov koncept parfemskog realizma kojem je cilj fiksirati pam\u0107enje u sada\u0161njem trenutku, ili ga prustijanski vratiti pomo\u0107u mirisa stvorenog prizivanjem sje\u0107anja. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Kroz ugodne i opu\u0161tene razgovore koji tonom posve kontrastiraju nervozi i prenapregnosti u odnosima zabilje\u017eenim u prethodnoj epizodi, pratimo potragu za inspiracijom za novi parfem koji Brosier radi za privatnog naru\u010ditelja, nostalgi\u010dnog anglofila,&nbsp; a koji bi trebao mirisati kao &#8220;Engleska&#8221;.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Poslasticu ove epizode donosi pri\u010da o najva\u017enijoj parfemskoj \u0161koli dana\u0161njice,<strong> Givaudanovoj<\/strong>, koju u ovom trenutku vodi <strong>Jean Guichard<\/strong>. <br>Tre\u0107inu svih parfema na svijetu kreirali su parfumeri iz \u0161kole ovog najve\u0107eg svjetskog dobavlja\u010da parfemskih sirovina.&nbsp; <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Imamo priliku saslu\u0161ati kako Guichard provodi selekciju kandidata, dobiti uvid u na\u010din \u0161kolovanja te o\u010dekivanja i zahtjeve, ali i vidjeti kako izgledaju i razmi\u0161ljaju kandidati, me\u0111u kojima i mladi\u0107 koji \u0107e gotovo odmah po izlasku iz Givaudanove \u0161kole stvoriti nekoliko vrlo uspje\u0161nih parfema &#8211; <strong>Quentin Bisch<\/strong>, u seriji tek na po\u010detku \u0161kolovanja.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ova epizoda nudi nam priliku i da vidimo i <strong>Jean-Claude Ellenu<\/strong>, u to vrijeme jo\u0161 uvijek glavnog parfumera ku\u0107e <strong>Hermes <\/strong>i saznamo kako izgleda njegov proces stvaranja te upoznamo prostore iz kojih crpi svakodnevnu inspiraciju. <br><br>Naposljetku, kao \u0161lag na vrh torte, sti\u017ee poruka samostalnog Ellene mladim kolegama parfumerima, koje za \u0161vicarski Givaudan \u0161koluje Guichard kako bi popunili unaprijed utvr\u0111eno mjesto u Givaudanovom sustavu koji kreativnu slobodu odre\u0111uje u skladu s&nbsp; korporacijskim interesima.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_7c8f6c-4b, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_7c8f6c-4b[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3416_7c8f6c-4b\"]{padding-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-sm, 1.5rem);padding-bottom:0px;text-align:center;font-style:normal;text-transform:uppercase;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_7c8f6c-4b mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_7c8f6c-4b[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3416_7c8f6c-4b\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_7c8f6c-4b img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_7c8f6c-4b[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3416_7c8f6c-4b\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_7c8f6c-4b[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3416_7c8f6c-4b\"] a, a.kb-advanced-heading-link.kt-adv-heading-link3416_7c8f6c-4b{text-decoration:none;}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_7c8f6c-4b, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_7c8f6c-4b[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3416_7c8f6c-4b\"]{text-align:center!important;}}<\/style>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/youtu.be\/Cz3_tY6Ld5I\" class=\"kb-advanced-heading-link kt-adv-heading-link3416_7c8f6c-4b hls-none\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><h2 class=\"kt-adv-heading3416_7c8f6c-4b wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3416_7c8f6c-4b\"><a href=\"https:\/\/youtu.be\/f3A9g5Eoz2Y\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">&#8220;The smell of the future&#8221;<\/a><\/h2><\/a>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_6e5665-4e, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_6e5665-4e[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3416_6e5665-4e\"]{padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-xs, 1rem);margin-top:0px;text-align:center;font-style:normal;text-transform:none;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_6e5665-4e mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_6e5665-4e[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3416_6e5665-4e\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_6e5665-4e img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_6e5665-4e[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3416_6e5665-4e\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_6e5665-4e, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3416_6e5665-4e[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3416_6e5665-4e\"]{text-align:center!important;}}<\/style>\n<h3 class=\"kt-adv-heading3416_6e5665-4e wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3416_6e5665-4e\">3. epizoda<\/h3>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-image.kb-image3416_19189b-39:not(.kb-specificity-added):not(.kb-extra-specificity-added){margin-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-lg, 3rem);margin-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-lg, 3rem);}.kb-image3416_19189b-39.kb-image-is-ratio-size, .kb-image3416_19189b-39 .kb-image-is-ratio-size{max-width:600px;width:100%;}.wp-block-kadence-column > .kt-inside-inner-col > .kb-image3416_19189b-39.kb-image-is-ratio-size, .wp-block-kadence-column > .kt-inside-inner-col > .kb-image3416_19189b-39 .kb-image-is-ratio-size{align-self:unset;}.kb-image3416_19189b-39 figure{max-width:600px;}.kb-image3416_19189b-39 .image-is-svg, .kb-image3416_19189b-39 .image-is-svg img{width:100%;}.kb-image3416_19189b-39 img.kb-img, .kb-image3416_19189b-39 .kb-img img{box-shadow:0px 0px 14px 0px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.2);}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-image kb-image3416_19189b-39\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><a href=\"https:\/\/youtu.be\/f3A9g5Eoz2Y\" class=\"kb-advanced-image-link\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/p01h55r0.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"kb-img wp-image-161566\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/p01h55r0.jpg 640w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/p01h55r0-300x169.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/a><figcaption>Grossmith<br>link: https:\/\/youtu.be\/f3A9g5Eoz2Y (kliknute na sliku)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Tre\u0107a epizoda bavi se velikim promjenama koje ve\u0107 nastupaju i uslijed kojih glavni predmet interesa parfemske industrije prestaju biti europsko i sjevernoameri\u010dko tr\u017ei\u0161te.<br>Ukazuje se na prilagodbe parfemske industrije probita\u010dnijim i unosnijim tr\u017ei\u0161tima (azijskom i latinoameri\u010dkom) koja &#8211; uslijed razli\u010dite geoografkog, povijesnog i kulturnog konteksta &#8211; name\u0107u potrebu za udovoljanjem druga\u010dijem ukusu i potrebama.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Dokumentarac prati rad <strong>Ann Gottlieb<\/strong> na lansiranju novog mirisa za <em>Axe<\/em> dezodorans na brazilskom tr\u017ei\u0161tu.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Kamera prati rad Ann Gottlieb, \u010dije stru\u010dna predvi\u0111anja i procjene osjetljivih promjena u ukusu i \u017eeljama tr\u017ei\u0161ta u zadnjih 20 godina stoje iza uspje\u0161nosti i globalne prepoznatljivosti Axe mirisa, a ovaj iznimno zanimljiv prilog, sli\u010dno kao primjer stvaranja Hilfingerovog <em>Loud<\/em> iz prve epizode, iznova upu\u0107uje na slo\u017een mehanizam koji stoji iza mass-market mirisa koje po\u010desto uzimamo zdravo za gotovo.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ovoj pri\u010di suprotstavljena je pri\u010da o stvaranju niche parfemske ku\u0107e <strong>Grossmith<\/strong> koja prezentira mirise elizabetanske engleske, a bra\u010dnom paru je savjetnik <strong>Roja Dove<\/strong>, kojeg imamo priliku upoznati u ulozi mentora, ali i komentatora zahtjeva i o\u010dekivanja na ekskluzivnom niche tr\u017ei\u0161tu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>O ovoj BBC-jevoj seriji &#8211; doista za sada jedinoj dokumentarnoj seriji o parfemima i parfemskoj industriji &#8211; parfemska zajednica izrazila se vrlo pohvalno.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Na\u0111ite vremena pogledati Parfem, jer doista vrijedi.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>U tradiciji svojih najboljih dokumentaraca, BBC je tijekom 2010. godine snimio trodijelnu dokumentarnu seriju Parfem, koja se osvr\u0107e na pro\u0161lost parfumerstva i skre\u0107e pa\u017enju na smjerove kojima \u0107e ono krenuti u bliskoj budu\u0107nosti. Serija dokumentira stanje industrije i trendove iz sada gotovo 15 godina stare perspektive, no sva razli\u010dita lica&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":161564,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_kad_blocks_custom_css":"","_kad_blocks_head_custom_js":"","_kad_blocks_body_custom_js":"","_kad_blocks_footer_custom_js":"","_kad_post_transparent":"","_kad_post_title":"","_kad_post_layout":"","_kad_post_sidebar_id":"","_kad_post_content_style":"","_kad_post_vertical_padding":"","_kad_post_feature":"","_kad_post_feature_position":"","_kad_post_header":false,"_kad_post_footer":false,"_kad_post_classname":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[3191,2980],"tags":[],"kreator":[2683,2672,2813],"topic":[3738,3748],"brand":[],"parfemska_grupa":[],"note":[],"organization":[3019,2985],"osobe":[],"serijal":[],"class_list":["post-3416","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-kultura-i-povijest-parfema","category-teme","kreator-jean-guichard","kreator-jean-claude-ellena","kreator-quentin-bisch","topic-industrija-i-trziste","topic-parfumeri","organization-bbc","organization-givaudan"],"acf":{"show_related_posts":false,"related-post_1":null,"related-post_2":null,"related-post_3":null,"related-post_4":null,"related-post_5":null,"related-post_6":null,"related-post_7":null,"related-post_8":null,"related-post_9":null,"related-post_10":null},"taxonomy_info":{"category":[{"value":3191,"label":"Kultura 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