{"id":3405,"date":"2019-06-04T07:02:00","date_gmt":"2019-06-04T05:02:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/scented-shelf.com\/2019\/06\/diptyque-lombre-dans-le-eau\/"},"modified":"2025-05-14T17:17:22","modified_gmt":"2025-05-14T15:17:22","slug":"diptyque-lombre-dans-le-eau","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/diptyque-lombre-dans-le-eau\/","title":{"rendered":"L&#8217;Ombre Dans L&#8217;Eau (EDT)\/ Diptyque"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p class=\"has-drop-cap\"><strong>Diptyqueov<\/strong> <em>L&#8217;Ombre Dans L&#8217;Eau<\/em> nastao je sada ve\u0107 daleke 1983. godine, a danas ima status modernog klasika.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Poku\u0161avam zamisliti koliko je razli\u010dit bio ovaj parfem kada je iza\u0161ao: uvijek kad ga pomiri\u0161em pomislim kako vrijeme kao da ga uop\u0107e nije dodirnulo &#8211; kao da je iza\u0161ao ove sezone, toliko djeluje autenti\u010dno i recentno. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>U odnosu na neke parfeme koji su ro\u0111eni iste godine &#8211; Guerlainov Jardins de Bagatelle, ili Yves Saint Laurentov Paris, ili Ungarovu Divu, L&#8217;Ombre Dans L&#8217;Eau miri\u0161e kao da je stvoren u paralelnom svemiru.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Spoj ru\u017ee s li\u0161\u0107em i plodom crnog ribizla, koji je prije 36 godina L&#8217;Ombre Dans L&#8217;Eau&nbsp;donio na parfemske police, danas je op\u0107e mjesto svih razina designerskih parfema.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>No, brojne kasnije izvedbe ovog akorda razvodnile su i preradile ambijentalnu i evokativnu snagu kojom je L&#8217;Ombre Dans L&#8217;Eau predstavio zeleni akord&nbsp; ru\u017ee i ribizla, tako da se, gledaju\u0107i iz inverzne perspektive, svje\u017eina i recentnost ovog sada modernog klasika \u010dine kao nadgradnja poznatog, umjesto kao prete\u010da i temelj.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Diptyqe je znatno kasnije, 2012. godine, predstavio EDP koncentraciju istog parfema, koju jo\u0161 nisam imala priliku usporediti s prvoro\u0111enom EDT.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.kb-image_cfb751-dd.kb-image-is-ratio-size, .kb-image_cfb751-dd .kb-image-is-ratio-size{max-width:550px;width:100%;}.wp-block-kadence-column > .kt-inside-inner-col > .kb-image_cfb751-dd.kb-image-is-ratio-size, .wp-block-kadence-column > .kt-inside-inner-col > .kb-image_cfb751-dd .kb-image-is-ratio-size{align-self:unset;}.kb-image_cfb751-dd figure{max-width:550px;}.kb-image_cfb751-dd .image-is-svg, .kb-image_cfb751-dd .image-is-svg img{width:100%;}.kb-image_cfb751-dd .kb-image-has-overlay:after{opacity:0.3;}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-image kb-image_cfb751-dd\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1050\" height=\"1400\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/PSX_20230125_150453-1050x1400.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"kb-img wp-image-93623\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/PSX_20230125_150453-1050x1400.jpg 1050w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/PSX_20230125_150453-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/PSX_20230125_150453-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/PSX_20230125_150453-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/PSX_20230125_150453.jpg 1400w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1050px) 100vw, 1050px\" \/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Ba\u0161 kako ime parfema sugerira,&nbsp;<em>Sjena na vodi<\/em>&nbsp; je parfem iznimno sna\u017enih horizontalnih i vertikalnih kontrasta, parfem koji oprimjeruje razvoj i promjenu te zato i parfem koji bih svakom parfemoljupcu preporu\u010dila barem probati.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>L&#8217;Ombre Dans L&#8217;Eau me u prvom mirisanju doslovno pokosio. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Sje\u0107am se skoro svake minute prvog uranjanja u otvaranje, ili, bolje: sje\u0107am se svakog trenutka kada me otvaranje pograbilo i uronilo u sebe:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ina\u010de nisam sklona sna\u017enom, gustom i tamnom &#8211; \u017eivom! &#8211; zelenilu. No, ovo zelenilo me op\u010dinilo: ono je o\u0161tro, gusto, neprozirno, debelo, te\u0161ko, mra\u010dno, gotovo ljutkasto-peckavo i negostoljubivo, i izrasta iz duboke sjene. <br>Onakvo u kakvo bih, u prirodi, sjela samo ako moram, nakon provjere i s pa\u017enjom.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Zelenilo izrasta iz vode&#8230; hladne, \u017eive, elementarne vode, koja daje \u017eivot i kru\u017ei u prirodi kao da ju se ni\u0161ta od \u017eivota koji je omogu\u0107ila ne ti\u010de, vode koja \u017eivot podjednako hladno i oduzima.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nikada prije nisam osjetila <em>takvu<\/em> vodu u parfemu, nimalo blizu transparentno-svje\u017eem pojmu akvatika.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Voda u L&#8217;Ombre Dans L&#8217;Eau je tamna, hladna, duboka i <em>svugdje&nbsp; je.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I onda to svjetlo&#8230; jer sjene ne postoje bez njega, niti na vodi.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Kako se parfem razvija, tako svjetla postupno ima sve vi\u0161e: ono je u gustom, debelom, aromati\u010dno-peckavom zelenilu, provla\u010di se kroz njega, postupno ga \u010dini samo zelenim, proljetno-zra\u010dno zelenim, onako zelenim kako dijete nacrta zelenilo pomo\u0107u tamnije i svjetlije bojice kada crta prolje\u0107e&#8230;.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>&#8230;. i tu je ru\u017ea. Blijeda.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Pluta pod vodom. Izviruje.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Kao da se utapa i gu\u0161i, ili izranja i di\u0161e, napokon.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Uspijem ju namirisati, ali ju onda opet poklopi ili \u017eivo zelenilo, ili \u017eiva voda. <br>Ru\u017ea kao da se bori s okolinom koja joj nije prijateljska. Kao da istovremeno gubi \u017eivot ugu\u0161ena i otpu\u0161ta na povr\u0161inu zadnje najnje\u017enije i najsna\u017enije mirise, ili se nesretnica tek ra\u0111a i pozdravlja \u017eive zelene sjene najljupkijom bijelom mirisnom nevino\u0161\u0107u.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Kako prodire svjetlo, tako se iz zelenog mokrog mirisnog udara uz ru\u017eu izdvaja nekoliko bobica crnog ribizla, a L&#8217;Ombre Dans Le Eau postaje poznatiji i nosiviji.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ipak &#8211; sve je tu: i zelenilo, i bijeda ru\u017ea i krvavo crven ribiz, samo prineseno k svjetlu i manje dramati\u010dno.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Dublji drydown nagra\u0111uje punim razvojem mirisa dirljive zelenobijele, gotovo netjelesne ru\u017ee.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Parfem postupno postaje prozra\u010dan, a ru\u017ea kristalna, kao da se kapljice vode, jo\u0161 uvijek jednako svje\u017ee na njenom li\u0161\u0107u i laticama, ljeskaju pod svjetlom poput kristala.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>U zadnjoj etapi razvoja, a koja traje satima, neprijateljska i hladno zelena divljina pretvorena je u topao, osun\u010dan vrt, u kojem svje\u017ea, nje\u017ena i svijetla ru\u017ea cvate okru\u017eena slatkastim plodovima ribizla i paprasto-ljutkastim mirisom njegovog li\u0161\u0107a.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Tama postaje sje\u0107anje na po\u010detak iskustva, sjena u pam\u0107enju nad idili\u010dnom slikom osun\u010dane vegetacije.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I nakon prvog susreta, kroz sve idu\u0107e, uvijek iznova, iako ne toliko intenzivno, prolazim dramu otvaranja i razvoja ovog parfema kao da doista svjedo\u010dim pretvorbi tame u svjetlo i divljine u prostor sigurnosti i mira.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>L&#8217;Ombre Dans L&#8217;Eau nosim kao ru\u017ea-ratnica koja je pre\u017eivjela, kao da sam istinski, svojom ko\u017eom, izborila pravo na kristalnu smirenost i miris regeneriraju\u0107eg ljetnog popodneva u svje\u017eem, zra\u010dnom i zelenom vrtnom hladu, uz tek otvorenu blijedu ru\u017eu i zdjelicu hladnih i slatko-trpkih ribizla.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Moja ljubav prema ovom parfemu je ona vrsta parfemske ljubavi u kojoj se u\u017eivanje mije\u0161a s divljenjem, po\u0161tivanjem, onakvima kakve osje\u0107am prema umjetni\u010dkim djelima koja me istinski dodirnu na svakoj od razina na kojoj postojim.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.kb-image_8cc586-f1.kb-image-is-ratio-size, .kb-image_8cc586-f1 .kb-image-is-ratio-size{max-width:650px;width:100%;}.wp-block-kadence-column > .kt-inside-inner-col > .kb-image_8cc586-f1.kb-image-is-ratio-size, .wp-block-kadence-column > .kt-inside-inner-col > .kb-image_8cc586-f1 .kb-image-is-ratio-size{align-self:unset;}.kb-image_8cc586-f1 figure{max-width:650px;}.kb-image_8cc586-f1 .image-is-svg, .kb-image_8cc586-f1 .image-is-svg img{width:100%;}.kb-image_8cc586-f1 .kb-image-has-overlay:after{opacity:0.3;}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-image kb-image_8cc586-f1\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1400\" height=\"1050\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/IMG_20190603_184326-01-1400x1050.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"kb-img wp-image-93617\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/IMG_20190603_184326-01-1400x1050.jpeg 1400w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/IMG_20190603_184326-01-300x225.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/IMG_20190603_184326-01-768x576.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/IMG_20190603_184326-01-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/IMG_20190603_184326-01-scaled.jpeg 1867w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\" \/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>EDT ima performanse EDP: L&#8217;Ombre dans Le Eau je vrlo radijalan, u prvim satima nakon nano\u0161enja ostavlja dug i sna\u017ean mirisni trag. Na mojoj ko\u017ei traje&nbsp; preko 8 sati i projicira cijelo vrijeme. Nosim ga nosim u toplije doba godine, u kasno prolje\u0107e i ljeti: na visokim temperaturama (25+) uz mirisni intenzitet pru\u017ea svje\u017einu.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Ba\u0161 kako ime ka\u017ee, Sjena na vodi je parfem iznimno sna\u017enih horizontalnih i vertikalnih kontrasta i pretvorbe tame u svjetlo i divljine u prostor sigurnosti i mira.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":25597,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_kad_blocks_custom_css":"","_kad_blocks_head_custom_js":"","_kad_blocks_body_custom_js":"","_kad_blocks_footer_custom_js":"","_kad_post_transparent":"","_kad_post_title":"","_kad_post_layout":"","_kad_post_sidebar_id":"","_kad_post_content_style":"","_kad_post_vertical_padding":"","_kad_post_feature":"","_kad_post_feature_position":"","_kad_post_header":false,"_kad_post_footer":false,"_kad_post_classname":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[1666],"tags":[],"kreator":[2806],"topic":[3905],"brand":[2807],"parfemska_grupa":[2035],"note":[2694,2181],"organization":[],"osobe":[],"serijal":[],"class_list":["post-3405","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-parfemi","kreator-serge-kalouguine","topic-recenzije","brand-diptyque","parfemska_grupa-zeleni","note-crni-ribiz","note-ruza"],"acf":{"show_related_posts":false,"related-post_1":null,"related-post_2":null,"related-post_3":null,"related-post_4":null,"related-post_5":null,"related-post_6":null,"related-post_7":null,"related-post_8":null,"related-post_9":null,"related-post_10":null},"taxonomy_info":{"category":[{"value":1666,"label":"Parfemi"}],"kreator":[{"value":2806,"label":"Serge Kalouguine"}],"topic":[{"value":3905,"label":"Recenzije"}],"brand":[{"value":2807,"label":"Diptyque"}],"parfemska_grupa":[{"value":2035,"label":"Zeleni"}],"note":[{"value":2694,"label":"Crni ribiz"},{"value":2181,"label":"Ru\u017ea"}]},"featured_image_src_large":["https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/PSX_541-1400x786.jpg",1360,764,true],"author_info":{"display_name":"Iva Mirisna","author_link":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/author\/miradmin\/"},"comment_info":0,"category_info":[{"term_id":1666,"name":"Parfemi","slug":"parfemi","term_group":0,"term_taxonomy_id":1666,"taxonomy":"category","description":"Recenzije parfema, naglasci i nova izdanja","parent":0,"count":113,"filter":"raw","term_order":"0","cat_ID":1666,"category_count":113,"category_description":"Recenzije parfema, naglasci i nova izdanja","cat_name":"Parfemi","category_nicename":"parfemi","category_parent":0}],"tag_info":false,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3405","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3405"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3405\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/25597"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3405"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3405"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3405"},{"taxonomy":"kreator","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/kreator?post=3405"},{"taxonomy":"topic","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/topic?post=3405"},{"taxonomy":"brand","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/brand?post=3405"},{"taxonomy":"parfemska_grupa","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/parfemska_grupa?post=3405"},{"taxonomy":"note","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/note?post=3405"},{"taxonomy":"organization","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/organization?post=3405"},{"taxonomy":"osobe","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/osobe?post=3405"},{"taxonomy":"serijal","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/serijal?post=3405"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}