{"id":3395,"date":"2019-06-24T08:50:00","date_gmt":"2019-06-24T06:50:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/scented-shelf.com\/2019\/06\/l-parfumeur-seville\/"},"modified":"2025-05-14T17:17:10","modified_gmt":"2025-05-14T15:17:10","slug":"seville-a-laube","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/seville-a-laube\/","title":{"rendered":"Seville A L&#8217;Aube \/ L&#8217;Artisan Parfumeur"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>Seville A L&#8217;Aube plod kreativne suradnje izme\u0111u parfemske kriti\u010darke <strong>Denyse Beaulieu<\/strong>, autorice bloga <a href=\"http:\/\/graindemusc.blogspot.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Grain de Musc<\/a> i Bertranda Duchaufoura, a nastajanje parfema Beaulieu je prikazala u svojoj knjizi\u00a0<strong>Perfume Lover<\/strong>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Dok je s njene strane motiv za nastanak Seville A L&#8217;Aube bio osoban, jer mirisno intrerpretira njezino sje\u0107anje na  Sevillu tijekom uskr\u0161nje procesije, koju je pratila ljubavna no\u0107 s lokalnim mladi\u0107em, Duchaufour je u suradnju u\u0161ao motiviran njezinom pri\u010dom i intrigantnim akordom nerolija i dima. Do verzije koju danas miri\u0161em iz bo\u010dice, formula Seville A L&#8217;Aube pro\u0161la je 27 modova, a radni nazivi bili su <em>Seville Semaine Sante<\/em> i <em>Duende.\u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/PSX_228.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/PSX_228.jpg\" alt=\"L'Artisan-Parfumeur-Seville-A-L'Aube\" title=\"L'Artisan-Parfumeur-Seville-A-L'Aube\"\/><\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Histeri\u010dne lastavice iznad glave i lipe koje cvatu ozna\u010davaju vrijeme kada zalazim u ormar u kojem moji parfemi spavaju zimski san i na budim <em>Seville A L&#8217; Aube.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Sa Seville A L&#8217;Aube prvi puta sam se susrela zimi, u pogre\u0161no vrijeme za susret s ovim parfemom. Seville A L&#8217;Aube tra\u017ei toplinu. Jedan jedini \u0161pric, negdje krajem sije\u010dnja ili u velja\u010di pred dvije godine, ispunio je cijelu moju kuhinju, koja nije ba\u0161 malena, a osim \u0161to sam bila zate\u010dena, odmah na prvu zaklju\u010dila sam da Seville A L&#8217;Aube jest mirisni entitet, u punom smislu rije\u010di.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Topli dani pro\u0161logodi\u0161njeg lipnja, lipe i lastavice, zajedno s prvim ljetnim haljinama i temperaturama koje su se vrtjele oko 25, otopili su sve moje zimske nedoumice i napravili od izazovnog entiteta posve ne\u0161to drugo: Seville A L&#8217;Aube se na toplini ukrotio, opustio, omekanio i ra\u0161irio.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Uz intenzitet mesnatog i voskastog nerolija i aromati\u010dne lavande na orijentalnoj, balzami\u010dnoj i voskastoj podlozi, u predljetne tople dane znatno jasnije osje\u0107am sve slojeve parfema.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Neroli u Seville A L&#8217;Aube od prvog trenutka priziva atmosferu eufori\u010dne tjelesnosti\u00a0\u00a0&#8211; pose\u017ee za prostorom oko sebe, tako\u00a0zdru\u017euje topao, mesnat, gotovo materijalan cvjetni i balzami\u010dni sloj s hladnim, zra\u010dnim i donekle strogim aromati\u010dnim elementima lavande i dima.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Isprepletenost (\u017eenskih) cvjetnih i balzami\u010dnih slojeva s (mu\u0161kom) aromati\u010dnom o\u0161trinom, dimom i mrvicom duhana na mirisnoj razini interpretira ljubavni\u010dki susret u Velikom tjednu do zore u Sevilji:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Toplo i hladno.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Profano i sveto.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Karnalno i onostrano, eteri\u010dno.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Seville A L&#8217;Aube je opis poriva i opis atmosfere, opis ekstati\u010dnosti koja &#8211; kada je koncentrirana onoliko koliko je mirisno koncentriran ovaj parfem &#8211; bri\u0161e razliku izme\u0111u duhovnog i tjelesnog, profanog i svetog.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/Mirisna-Seville-A-LAube-01.jpg\" alt=\"\" title=\"\"><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>U otvaranju bijelocvjetno-citrusni sloj najavljuje petitgrain, no glasno ga predvodi neroli. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Akord nerolija koji su stvorili Duchaufour i Beaulieuima tek minimalno tanko\u0107utne nje\u017enosti cvijeta. Duchaufourov neroli:  takav bi se hiperboli\u010dan, masivan i mesnat neroli pojavio u filmovima Tima Burtona, komentirala je Seka i doista mislim da ima ne\u0161to u ovoj usporedbi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Parfem postupno razvija gustu i \u010dvrstu &#8211; napetu &#8211; teksturu:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Udru\u017eena s dimom, voskastost s jedne strane priziva jasnu asocijaciju na sveto, na svije\u0107e kojima se topi tijelo dok nad njime vijori dim, a s druge strane na materijalnost, gotovo profanosti i tjelesnost:  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Miri\u0161u\u0107i vo\u0161tani sloj Seville A L&#8217;Aube s ruke, vratilo mi se fizi\u010dko sje\u0107anje na <em>poriv<\/em> vezan uz vosak: kao dijete sam otkidala sa svije\u0107e komadi\u0107e ohla\u0111enog voska svije\u0107e, a onda ih grickala, koncentrirana na okus voska, otpor pod zubima i glatka povr\u0161inu pod jezikom. Taj poriv se kasnije uobli\u010dio u poriv ugriza ljubljene ko\u017ee, jer na\u0161e ko\u017ee jesu i blago voskaste, onako ugrijane, a na\u0161a napeta ko\u017ea glatka je kao ohla\u0111en vosak.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Tjelesnost Seville A L&#8217;Aube vi\u0161e je interpretacija snage samog poriva koji se realizira u svetkovanju i ljubavni\u0161tvu, nego interpretacija samih  zbivanja. <br>Ipak, asocijacije na sve \u0161to se zbivalo prije nego \u0161to je u Seville nastupila zora Duchaufour je ugradio u sve slojeve parfema:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Kontrast cvjetnoj materijalnosti koja pr\u0161ti od topline i \u017eivota donosi dimno-aromati\u010dna i hladna vertikala kojoj je u samom vrhu lavanda, a zatim parfem blago zao\u0161trava dim: ne gust, ali ne i posve transparentan kao u, primjerice, tako\u0111er Duchaufourovom<strong> <\/strong><a href=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/eau-ditalie-paestum-rose\/\">Paestum Rose<\/a> i <a href=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/l-parfumeur-timbuktu\/\">Timbuktuu<\/a>. <br><br>Prema spomenutim dimovima, dim u Seville A L&#8217;Aube je ne\u0161to materijalniji i \u010dvr\u0161\u0107i.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ova aromati\u010dno-dimno-svje\u017ea vertikala blago miri\u0161e kao suptilni trag mu\u0161kog parfema koji sadr\u017ei lavandu i dim te smje\u0161tava Seville A L&#8217;Aube u prostor uniseksa.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Pri kraju razvoja Seville A L&#8217;Aube postupno se opu\u0161ta u obi\u010dniju, ugodno nosivu, mirnu te slatkasto-toplu bazu &#8211; spoj vanilije i benzoina, s tek ne\u0161to tragova svje\u017eine i sada tople zadimljenosti.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Baza kao da ima <em>onaj osmijeh,<\/em> ali \u0161uti o tome.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/Mirisna-Seville-A-LAube-03.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/Mirisna-Seville-A-LAube-03.jpg\" alt=\"LArtisan -Seville-A- LAube-Mirisna-Polica-03\" title=\"LArtisan -Seville-A- LAube-Mirisna-03\"\/><\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/global.artisanparfumeur.com\/perfumes\/s-ville-l-aube-eau-de-parfum-1243148.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Slu\u017ebena stranica<\/a>\u00a0navodi sljede\u0107e note:<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/LArtisan-Seville-A-LAube-Mirisna-04.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/LArtisan-Seville-A-LAube-Mirisna-04.jpg\" alt=\"LArtisan- Seville-A-LAube-Mirisna-Polica-04\" title=\"LArtisan- Seville-A-LAube-Mirisna-04\"\/><\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Seville A L&#8217;Aube je opis poriva i opis atmosfere, opis ekstati\u010dnosti koja &#8211; kada je koncentrirana onoliko koliko je mirisno koncentriran ovaj parfem &#8211; bri\u0161e razliku izme\u0111u duhovnog i tjelesnog, profanog i svetog.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":93550,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_kad_blocks_custom_css":"","_kad_blocks_head_custom_js":"","_kad_blocks_body_custom_js":"","_kad_blocks_footer_custom_js":"","_kad_post_transparent":"","_kad_post_title":"","_kad_post_layout":"","_kad_post_sidebar_id":"","_kad_post_content_style":"","_kad_post_vertical_padding":"","_kad_post_feature":"","_kad_post_feature_position":"","_kad_post_header":false,"_kad_post_footer":false,"_kad_post_classname":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[1666],"tags":[],"kreator":[2662],"topic":[3905],"brand":[2366],"parfemska_grupa":[2037,3269],"note":[2503,2451,2504,2193,2802],"organization":[],"osobe":[2365],"serijal":[],"class_list":["post-3395","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-parfemi","kreator-bertrand-duchaufour","topic-recenzije","brand-lartisan-parfumeur","parfemska_grupa-cvjetno-ambreni","parfemska_grupa-dim","note-benzoin","note-lavanda-lavandin","note-neroli","note-petitgrain","note-vosak","osobe-denyse-beaulieau"],"acf":{"show_related_posts":false,"related-post_1":null,"related-post_2":null,"related-post_3":null,"related-post_4":null,"related-post_5":null,"related-post_6":null,"related-post_7":null,"related-post_8":null,"related-post_9":null,"related-post_10":null},"taxonomy_info":{"category":[{"value":1666,"label":"Parfemi"}],"kreator":[{"value":2662,"label":"Bertrand Duchaufour"}],"topic":[{"value":3905,"label":"Recenzije"}],"brand":[{"value":2366,"label":"L'Artisan Parfumeur"}],"parfemska_grupa":[{"value":2037,"label":"Cvjetno-ambreni"},{"value":3269,"label":"Dim"}],"note":[{"value":2503,"label":"Benzoin"},{"value":2451,"label":"Lavanda \/ lavandin"},{"value":2504,"label":"Neroli"},{"value":2193,"label":"Petitgrain"},{"value":2802,"label":"Vosak"}],"osobe":[{"value":2365,"label":"Denyse Beaulieau"}]},"featured_image_src_large":["https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/PSX_20230125_003229-1400x932.jpg",1360,905,true],"author_info":{"display_name":"Iva Mirisna","author_link":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/author\/miradmin\/"},"comment_info":0,"category_info":[{"term_id":1666,"name":"Parfemi","slug":"parfemi","term_group":0,"term_taxonomy_id":1666,"taxonomy":"category","description":"Recenzije parfema, naglasci i nova izdanja","parent":0,"count":113,"filter":"raw","term_order":"0","cat_ID":1666,"category_count":113,"category_description":"Recenzije parfema, naglasci i nova izdanja","cat_name":"Parfemi","category_nicename":"parfemi","category_parent":0}],"tag_info":false,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3395","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3395"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3395\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/93550"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3395"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3395"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3395"},{"taxonomy":"kreator","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/kreator?post=3395"},{"taxonomy":"topic","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/topic?post=3395"},{"taxonomy":"brand","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/brand?post=3395"},{"taxonomy":"parfemska_grupa","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/parfemska_grupa?post=3395"},{"taxonomy":"note","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/note?post=3395"},{"taxonomy":"organization","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/organization?post=3395"},{"taxonomy":"osobe","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/osobe?post=3395"},{"taxonomy":"serijal","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/serijal?post=3395"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}