{"id":3384,"date":"2019-07-28T13:55:00","date_gmt":"2019-07-28T11:55:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/scented-shelf.com\/2019\/07\/sp-parfums-sven-pritzkolei\/"},"modified":"2025-05-14T15:30:41","modified_gmt":"2025-05-14T13:30:41","slug":"sp-parfums-sven-pritzkolei","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/sp-parfums-sven-pritzkolei\/","title":{"rendered":"SP Parfums &#8211; 4 parfema i prate\u0107a pri\u010da"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>Oko njema\u010dke niche ku\u0107e SP Parfums i njezinog parfumera, samoukog Svena Pritzkoleita, u kratko vrijeme isplelo se puno, mo\u017eda \u010dak i previ\u0161e publiciteta. <br>Obi\u010dno, kada ga je previ\u0161e, onda je u pitanju hype (nekriti\u010dki neumjereno hvaljenje), a kad je u pitanju hype, onda je te\u0161ko o\u010dekivati da se ne\u0107e pojaviti i njegova &#8220;dark side&#8221; kontrareakcija &#8211; nekriti\u010dko i neumjereno odbacivanje i nipodo\u0161tavanje. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>U kratko vrijeme Sven Prietzkoleit je uspio kreirati oboje.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Parfeme nisam po\u017eeljela testirati ranije, jer me zasmetala cijena 1,5 mililitarskih samplova: <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Budu\u0107i da bih mogla ispuniti 2 retka imenima i malih independent brendova koji ne pelje\u0161e kupce koji \u017eele testirati parfem prije kupnje i koji prosje\u010dno otprilike upola manjom cijenom sampla&nbsp;promoviraju i svoj brend, smatram da je 8 i 10 eura previ\u0161e, osobito zato jer se radi o relativno novoj ku\u0107i, koju sna\u017eno promoviraju youtube revieweri.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Kako jesam parfemoljupka, ali ne osje\u0107am toliko potrebu pomirisati odmah sve najnovije ili najhot,  parfemi Svena Pritzkoleita bi vjerojatno pri\u010dekali jo\u0161 neko vrijeme, pa i po rizik da budu rasprodani i nestanu. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>No, pru\u017eila mi se prilika da nabavim uzorke iz druge ruke, od samozatajne i rafinirane parfemoljupke D., s kojom me ve\u017ee nekoliko divnih suradnji uz razmjenu mi\u0161ljenja, stoga sam ipak odlu\u010dila testirati <em>retro\/vintage duh <\/em>ku\u0107e.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Iznenadilo me da od nagra\u0111enog parfema (<em>Powder&amp;Dust<\/em>), od kojeg sam o\u010dekivala najvi\u0161e, nisam posve dobila o\u010dekivano, a najvi\u0161e mi se svidio parfem za koji sam najmanje o\u010dekivala da \u0107e mi se svidjeti (<em>Suntanglam<\/em>).<br>No, s druge strane, 3 od 4 parfema mogla bih preporu\u010diti odre\u0111enim profilima parfemoljubaca, barem za testiranje, a to jest puno.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.kb-image3384_53b20e-72.kb-image-is-ratio-size, .kb-image3384_53b20e-72 .kb-image-is-ratio-size{max-width:650px;width:100%;}.wp-block-kadence-column > .kt-inside-inner-col > .kb-image3384_53b20e-72.kb-image-is-ratio-size, .wp-block-kadence-column > .kt-inside-inner-col > .kb-image3384_53b20e-72 .kb-image-is-ratio-size{align-self:unset;}.kb-image3384_53b20e-72 figure{max-width:650px;}.kb-image3384_53b20e-72 .image-is-svg, .kb-image3384_53b20e-72 .image-is-svg img{width:100%;}.kb-image3384_53b20e-72 .kb-image-has-overlay:after{opacity:0.3;}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-image kb-image3384_53b20e-72\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1080\" height=\"990\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Screenshot_20230124_142041_Opera-01.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"kb-img wp-image-93363\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Screenshot_20230124_142041_Opera-01.jpeg 1080w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Screenshot_20230124_142041_Opera-01-300x275.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Screenshot_20230124_142041_Opera-01-768x704.jpeg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\" \/><figcaption>Sven Pritzkoleit. Foto via <a href=\"https:\/\/www.sp-parfums.de\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">SP Parfums<\/a>.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Testirala sam Pritzkoleitove <strong>Violet Moss<\/strong> i <strong>Sunmilkflowers<\/strong>, zatim <strong>Suntanglam<\/strong>,&nbsp;napravljen pod kreativnim vo\u0111enjem novinara i urednika Fragrantice Miguela Matosa te&nbsp;<strong>Powder&amp;Dust<\/strong>, napravljen pod kreativnim vo\u0111enjem vrlo popularne You Tube reviewerice Tomelise.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Prije nego \u0161to krenem redom, jo\u0161 jedna napomena: obi\u010dno nemam naviku prepri\u010davati <em>&#8220;\u0161to je tko rekao kome&#8221; <\/em>i obi\u010dno u recenzijama zaobilazim prikaz recepcije me\u0111u isturenim pripadnicima parfemske zajednice. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>No, kako je u same parfemske formule ovog brenda vrlo izra\u017eeno utkana komponenta neformalne, a o\u010diglene promocije<span style=\"font-size: revert;\"> koja je, posljedi\u010dno, i stvorila hype, <\/span><em style=\"font-size: revert;\">&#8220;\u0161to je tko o kome rekao&#8221;<\/em><span style=\"font-size: revert;\"> ne mogu zanemariti.<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Potaknut izlaskom Turin\/Sanchez&nbsp;<em>Vodi\u010da 2018.<\/em>, u kojem je kriti\u010dki dvojac opako ocijenio neka izdanja SP Parfums, Sven Pritzkoleit je objavio <a href=\"https:\/\/www.sp-parfums.de\/news-blog\/sp-private-perfume-with-miguel-matos-the-perfume-guide-by-luca-turin-and-tania-sanchez\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">otvoreno pismo \/ osvrt<\/a>&nbsp;u kojem svoju ku\u0107u i svoje parfeme do\u017eivljava kao kolateralne \u017ertve sna\u017ene i otvorene osobne netrpeljivosti utjecajnih parfemskih recenzenata, misle\u0107i pritom na <strong>Miguela Matosa<\/strong> i <strong>Lucu Turina<\/strong> \/ <strong>Taniu Sanchez<\/strong>. Stoga \u0107u se kod nekih parfema osvrnuti upravo na postupke recenzenta i to &#8220;<em>\u0161to je tko rekao<\/em>&#8220;, ili \u010dak napravio.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_aa0f2e-c6, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_aa0f2e-c6[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_aa0f2e-c6\"]{padding-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);text-align:center;font-style:normal;text-transform:none;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_aa0f2e-c6 mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_aa0f2e-c6[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_aa0f2e-c6\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_aa0f2e-c6 img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_aa0f2e-c6[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_aa0f2e-c6\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}<\/style>\n<h2 class=\"kt-adv-heading3384_aa0f2e-c6 wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_aa0f2e-c6\">Violet Moss<\/h2>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_03eed5-66, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_03eed5-66[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_03eed5-66\"]{padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);text-align:center;font-style:normal;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_03eed5-66 mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_03eed5-66[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_03eed5-66\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_03eed5-66 img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_03eed5-66[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_03eed5-66\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}<\/style>\n<h6 class=\"kt-adv-heading3384_03eed5-66 wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_03eed5-66\">(Sven Pritzkoleit, Essential Collection Woods, 2016.)<\/h6>\n\n\n\n<p>Kako se radi o artisan ku\u0107i koja izbacuje male limitirane serije, <em>Violet Moss<\/em> vi\u0161e nije u ponudi, no na naslovnoj stranici SP Parfums nalazi se <a href=\"https:\/\/perfumesilove.com\/2016\/05\/13\/sp-parfums\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">vrlo pohvalna recenzija Luce Turina<\/a>, inicijalno objavljena na njegovom sada pasivnom blogu <em>Perfumes I love<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/SP-Pritzkoleit-Violet-Moss.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/SP-Pritzkoleit-Violet-Moss.jpg\" alt=\"\" title=\"\"><\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Violet Moss je u punom smislu retro interpretacija izgra\u0111ena oko onog \u0161to kazuje ime parfema: mahovine i ljubi\u010dice. Radi se o&nbsp; spoju neslatke, pudrasto-svje\u017ee ljubi\u010dice i tamne, guste, bar\u0161unaste mahovine, dodatno poja\u010dane solidnom dozom civeta. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Violet Moss gotovo od po\u010detka razvoja pa sve do dubokog drydowna miri\u0161e kao najklasi\u010dnije chypre baze: ozbiljno, zrelo i mirno-duboko-tamno, a razigrava ga i dopunjuje civet, koji tako\u0111er jest dio klasi\u010dnih baznih dijelova chypre kompozicije, no ovdje se on ne pona\u0161a samo kao klasi\u010dni suigra\u010d, ve\u0107 podjednako kao &#8220;remetila\u010dki faktor&#8221; kvalitetno kontrapunktira ozbiljnoj bar\u0161unastoj mirno\u0107i. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ovdje je animali\u010dan civet ne\u0161to poput cerekaju\u0107e-\u0161arenog harlekina u tamnoj i gustoj \u0161umi, ili tihoj ozbiljnoj biblioteci.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Upravo na\u010din na koji (u nazivu parfema pre\u0161u\u0107en) animalik i pripada i ne pripada klasi\u010dnom konceptu i kako je reinterpretirana njegova uloga \u010dini Violett Moss meni vrlo zanimljivim.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Luca Turin napisao je iznimno dobru recenziju, u sklopu koje se tako\u0111er izrazio vrlo pohvalno i kreatoru, Svenu Pritzkoleitu i o retro\/vintage konceptu ku\u0107e. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Me\u0111utim, kada je 2018. godine iza\u0161ao njegov drugi Vodi\u010d &#8211; dobra i pohvalna recenzija nije bila njemu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/luca-turin-tanja-sanchez-vodici-iz-2008\/\">Vodi\u010d Luce Turina i Tanie Sanchez iz 2018<\/a>. donosi samo vrlo negativne recenzije parfema, i to samo onih koje je SP kasnije radio s Miguelom Matosom. Sve recenzije su osobno neprijateljski nastrojene, pa parfemoljubac koji&nbsp; manje ili zna ili prati<em> &#8220;tko je \u0161to rekao o kome&#8221;<\/em>, a ima povjerenje u autoritet Luce Turina i Tanie Sanchez te smatra njihove sudove orijentacijskima, mo\u017ee ste\u0107i dojam da Sven Pritzkoleit ne radi dobre parfeme te da, po mi\u0161ljenju Turin\/Sanchez, nikada nije napravio ni\u0161ta dobro.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I to je velika neistina, koju su zajedno kreirali Turin i Sanchez, pre\u0161av\u0161i preko vlastitih pozitivnih sudova o parfumeru i parfemu kada je Pritzkoleit zapo\u010deo suradnju s Matosom.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>U prvoj od recenzija kolekcije s Martosom, Tania Sanchez napisala je jasno na \u010demu je zasnovana cjelokupna kriti\u010dka prezentacija SP Parfums:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<blockquote class=\"wp-block-quote is-layout-flow wp-block-quote-is-layout-flow\">\n<p><em>&#8220;&#8230;Mogu samo zaklju\u010diti da se, poput p\u010dela i muha zujara, mi i umjetni\u010dki direktor ovih parfema fundamentalno, a mogu\u0107e i biolo\u0161ki ne sla\u017eemo oko toga \u0161to miri\u0161e dobro. Ako vam se svi\u0111aju ovi mirisi, vjerojatno \u0107ete misliti da je ova knjiga sranje, da smo anosmi\u010dni, da imamo nula parfemskog ukusa i ja prihva\u0107am neumitnost takvog suda. TS&#8221;<\/em><\/p>\n<cite>The Guide: 2018., str. 138.<\/cite><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n<p>Primjer Turin\/Sanchez autocenzure i isklju\u010divosti na podru\u010dju kriti\u010dkih sudova uz istovremeno odsustvo autocenzure kada se radi o osobnom obra\u010dunu pokazuje koliko autodestruktivno daleko \u017eele i mogu i\u0107i osobni antagonizmi, neovisno o \u0161teti koju trpi informiranje onog dijela parfemske zajednice koji zapravo jo\u0161 uvijek i \u017eeli i nastoji vjerovati u parfemsku kritiku.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Violet Moss je prvi od dva parfema koji mi se svidio i ne bih imala ni\u0161ta protiv njegovog uvr\u0161tavanja na svoju mirisnu policu, kada bih ga dobila. <\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_3594f9-48, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_3594f9-48[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_3594f9-48\"]{padding-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);text-align:center;font-style:normal;text-transform:none;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_3594f9-48 mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_3594f9-48[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_3594f9-48\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_3594f9-48 img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_3594f9-48[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_3594f9-48\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}<\/style>\n<h2 class=\"kt-adv-heading3384_3594f9-48 wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_3594f9-48\">Sunmilkflowers<\/h2>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_b0cb37-a7, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_b0cb37-a7[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_b0cb37-a7\"]{padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);text-align:center;font-style:normal;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_b0cb37-a7 mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_b0cb37-a7[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_b0cb37-a7\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_b0cb37-a7 img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_b0cb37-a7[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_b0cb37-a7\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}<\/style>\n<h6 class=\"kt-adv-heading3384_b0cb37-a7 wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_b0cb37-a7\">(Sven Pritzkoleit, Essential Collection Fresh, 2016. )<\/h6>\n\n\n\n<p>Odmah na po\u010detku:<em> Sunmilkflowers <\/em>je parfem koji mi se najmanje svidio i najmanje razumijem \u0161to je bila svrha, iako mu priznajem u potpunosti pogo\u0111en retro karakter.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/SP-Pritzkoleit-Sunmilkflowers.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/SP-Pritzkoleit-Sunmilkflowers.jpg\" alt=\"\" title=\"\"><\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Radi se o intenzivnoj kombinaciji neprirodno svijetlog zelenila kojim je okupana sna\u017eno juicy nedefinirana vo\u0107nost, ne\u0161to kao tutti-frutti blend 80-ih (zajedno s bojama i poja\u010diva\u010dima okusa koje tih godina jo\u0161 nisu bile ograni\u010dene i zabranjene), a sve to skupa s all-floral cvjetnim slojem koji je  karakterom jednako bright.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Puno toga, a onda sve to jo\u0161 i uronjeno u mlako mlijeko. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Slu\u017ebeni opis ka\u017ee da Sunmilkflowers priziva asocijacije na kreme za pla\u017eu, no ja nisam uspjela dobiti tako jasan osje\u0107aj, iako sam ubrala odre\u0111eni kozmeti\u010dki funkcionalan faset, koji dodatno vu\u010de na sinteti\u010dku i umjetnu stranu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Sunmilkflowers (u exrait koncentraciji) posjeduje znatnu projekciju, a unato\u010d zasi\u0107enoj vo\u0107nosti i cvjetnosti te nagla\u0161enom zelenilu, ne posjeduje niti svje\u017einu niti lako\u0107u.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Posve otvoreno &#8211; ne znam \u0161to da mislim o Sunmilkflowers: s jedne strane mogla bih ga zbog&nbsp; bright-sweet-loud karaktera jednokratno iznijeti kao dobru zezanciju prilikom odlaska na party s temom &#8220;pop 80-e&#8221;, da bude pratnja plavom sjenilu na kapcima, florescentnim gumicama za minivaliziranu kosu svezanu visoko u rep, tregericama s visokim strukom i prektarkim nogavicama te Brooklyn tutti-fruity \u017evakama u d\u017eepu, \u010disto da se ubacim u taj mood.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>No, u svakoj drugoj prilici smatrala bih ga umjetnim i pretjeranim.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Da je Sunmilkflowers pjesma, bio bi neki moderni cover Cyndi Lauper&nbsp;<em>Girls just wanna have fun.&nbsp; <\/em><br>I dalje obo\u017eavam ovaj ultimativni hit 80-ih, ali sumnjam da bih ovu pjesmu voljela danas da ju \u010dujem po prvi puta, uz dodatnu napomenu da su mi svi coveri originala koje sam \u010dula po putu od nekad do danas ne samo nevoljeni, nego i iritantni.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Tako nekako sam se osje\u0107ala nose\u0107i Sunmilkflowers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Kao da nosim lo\u0161iji cover divno luckaste Cyndy Lauper iz istovrsnih 80-ih.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Slu\u017ebeni opis mo\u017eete pro\u010ditati <a href=\"https:\/\/www.sp-parfums.de\/produkt\/sunmilkflowers-extrait-de-parfum-30ml\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">ovdje<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_a1d61f-0f, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_a1d61f-0f[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_a1d61f-0f\"]{padding-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);text-align:center;font-style:normal;text-transform:none;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_a1d61f-0f mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_a1d61f-0f[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_a1d61f-0f\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_a1d61f-0f img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_a1d61f-0f[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_a1d61f-0f\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}<\/style>\n<h2 class=\"kt-adv-heading3384_a1d61f-0f wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_a1d61f-0f\">Suntanglam<\/h2>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_6ff56e-d4, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_6ff56e-d4[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_6ff56e-d4\"]{padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);text-align:center;font-style:normal;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_6ff56e-d4 mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_6ff56e-d4[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_6ff56e-d4\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_6ff56e-d4 img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_6ff56e-d4[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_6ff56e-d4\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}<\/style>\n<h6 class=\"kt-adv-heading3384_6ff56e-d4 wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_6ff56e-d4\">(Miguel Matos, SP Private Perfume Collection, 2017. )<\/h6>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/SP-Pritzkoleit-Suntanglam.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/SP-Pritzkoleit-Suntanglam.jpg\" alt=\"\" title=\"\"><\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Suntanglam je jedan od \u010detiri parfema &#8211; ostali su <em>Lisbon Blues<\/em> i <em>Funfair<\/em> (2017.) te <em>Nowhere Fast<\/em> (2018.) &#8211; nastala pod kreativnim ravnanjem <strong>Miguela Matosa<\/strong> i ujedno parfem za koji sam o\u010dekivala da \u0107e mi se najmanje svidjeti &#8211; da bi ispalo da mi se svi\u0111a najvi\u0161e.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Radi se o&nbsp;<em>vrlo animali\u010dnom<\/em>, doslovno nabrijano animali\u010dnom spoju monoi-akorda (&#8220;dirty monoi&#8221;, ka\u017ee slu\u017ebeni opis nota) s rasko\u0161nom dozom civeta, pa jo\u0161 onda rasko\u0161nom dozom castoreuma i sve to na toploj klasi\u010dnoj &#8211; gotovo guerlainovskoj, a svakako klasi\u010dno-retro podlozi drva i tople pudraste i guste tonke.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nakon minutu podizanja obrve nad onim \u0161to je nad mojom ko\u017eom stvarao ovaj parfem prasnula sam u smijeh i preimenovala ga u&nbsp;<em>Big!Bang!Wham! ,<\/em>&nbsp;full reference included.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>Big!Bang!Wham!<\/em> \/ Suntanglam mi se svi\u0111a i itekako bih ga povremeno nosila i rado imala, iako sam sigurna da \u0107e moje mi\u0161ljenje dijeliti samo pravi ljubitelji bezobrazno otvorenih i nimalo suptilnih animalika, pa imajte ovo na umu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ali svejedno: <em>BIG!BANG!WHAM!<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Sometimes a girl, or a boy, needs <em>that<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Slu\u017ebeni opis mo\u017eete pro\u010ditati <a href=\"https:\/\/www.sp-parfums.de\/produkt\/suntanglam\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">ovdje<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_59a18c-e4, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_59a18c-e4[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_59a18c-e4\"]{padding-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);text-align:center;font-style:normal;text-transform:none;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_59a18c-e4 mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_59a18c-e4[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_59a18c-e4\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_59a18c-e4 img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_59a18c-e4[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_59a18c-e4\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}<\/style>\n<h2 class=\"kt-adv-heading3384_59a18c-e4 wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_59a18c-e4\">Powder&amp;Dust<\/h2>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_315aec-61, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_315aec-61[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_315aec-61\"]{padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);text-align:center;font-style:normal;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_315aec-61 mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_315aec-61[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_315aec-61\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_315aec-61 img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_315aec-61[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_315aec-61\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}<\/style>\n<h6 class=\"kt-adv-heading3384_315aec-61 wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_315aec-61\">(Sven Pritzkoleit \/ Yana Lysenko, 2018.) <\/h6>\n\n\n\n<p><em>Powder&amp;Dust<\/em> dobitnik je ovogodi\u0161nje <a href=\"http:\/\/www.artandolfactionawards.org\/2019overview\/2019-finalists\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Art and Olfaction Award<\/a> u kategoriji artisana.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Parfem je nastao pod kreativnim ravnanjem <strong>Yane Lysenko <\/strong><strong>aka <em>Tomelise<\/em><\/strong>, utjecajne YouTube reviewerice.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/SP-Pritzkoleit-Powder26Dust.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/SP-Pritzkoleit-Powder26Dust.jpg\" alt=\"\" title=\"\"><\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Radi se o parfemu koji mirisno spaja suhu i svje\u017eu vo\u0107nost kru\u0161ke (ali vjerujem ne samo kru\u0161ke) sa slojevima pudraste kremastosti koju kreiraju ispotencirane razli\u010dite dimenzije mimozinog mirisnog profila. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Mimoza, osim \u0161to miri\u0161e nje\u017eno-cvjetno (a ovaj mirisni element tako\u0111er se nalazi u parfemu), ima svojstvo koje njezin miris pribli\u017eava posve mirisu badema. <br>U Powder&amp;Dust je ispotencirano upravo njezino bademasto lice, do mjere u kojoj bademasta kremasto-slatka pudrastost prelazi u cijanidi\u010dnost koju je Annick Menardo sjajno kreirala u <em>Hypnotic Poisonu<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Asocijacija na Hypnotic Poison nametnula mi se sama i toliko jasno da sam s Powder&amp;Dust na ruci potegnula do prvog ve\u0107eg Mullera kako bih usporedila vara li se sje\u0107anje i moj nos oko mirisne srodnosti, ali i srodnosti u teksturi, gusto\u0107i i pona\u0161anju.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Izravna usporedba dvaju parfema koji na ko\u017ei doslovno traju satima potvrdila je da u Powder&amp;Dust ispod vo\u0107nog sloja koji nosi odre\u0111enu svje\u017einu i donosi &#8220;glasno\u0107u&#8221; iz pudera vreba temeljni akord Hypnotic Poisona &#8211; puna i gusta cijanidi\u010dna bademastost, samo \u0161to u Powder&amp;Dust ve\u0107 poznat efekt zavaravaju\u0107e bademaste jestivosti kreira mimoza (ali, uvjerena sam, ne samo mimoza), dodatno potcrtana obilnom koli\u010dinom vo\u0107a, blagim, tako\u0111er ora\u0161astim drvom i bogatim, punim mo\u0161usom.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Po meni, Powder&amp;Dust jest razli\u010dit i dobro napravljen, ali &#8211; nije poseban.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nakon onog \u0161to je Annick Menardo napravila i donijela u mirisni svijet s Hypnotic Poisonom, Powder&amp;Dust bio bi vi\u0161e elaboracija dodatnim i mudro odabranim akordom, ali ne i puno vi\u0161e od toga i &#8211; najbitnije &#8211; ne u novom smjeru.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Kada se radi o vo\u0107nosti, doista mirisno jestivoj, u Powder&amp;Dust ona zapravo djeluje kao jestivo predjelo su\u0161tinski i dalje mirisno &#8220;nejestivog&#8221; parfema, koji bi se, ba\u0161 kao i Hypnotic Poison, vjerujem najvi\u0161e mogao svidjeti ljubiteljicama gurmanaca koje nisu osvijestile koliko &#8220;otrova&#8221; je Annick Menardo ulila u njene najbolje i najpopularnije &#8220;slatke jestive gurmance&#8221; &#8211; Hypnotic Poison i <a href=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/lolita-lempicka-lolita-lempicka\/\"><strong>Lolitu Lempicku<\/strong>.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Tako\u0111er, smatram da je ime parfema vrhunski odabrano, jer je upravo to &#8211; puder i prah &#8211;&nbsp; a ne bajkoviti hepi end, ono \u0161to se doga\u0111a Snjeguljicama kad zagrizu ovdje doslovno otrovano vo\u0107e.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=lf6M7kWkPkU\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Tomelise na svome kanalu ima posve druga\u010diju interpretaciju parfema<\/a>, tako da ne mogu procijeniti je li ona svjesno uputila k elaboraciji toxic koncepta pa ga odlu\u010dila ograni\u010deno i ciljano prezentirati, mudro procjenjuju\u0107i da je mo\u017eda bolje pustiti da needucirana publika do nekih istina do\u0111e sama, a do tada brinuti za hype.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nisam sigurna da bih investirala u Powder &amp; Dust.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>No, ljubiteljicama ideje da postoji vo\u0107ni superhot i dodatno twisted, a i dalje weirdo Hypnotic Poison preporu\u010dila bih testiranje. Powder&amp;Dust nije presladak, ima teksturu i gusto\u0107u svog tipolo\u0161kog gurmanskog srodnika, projektivniji je od njega i u edp koncentraciji ima iznimnu trajnost od 12+ sati na ko\u017ei, u cijelosti jednako kao i exrait koncentracija u kojoj se nudi Suntanglam.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Slu\u017ebeni opis parfema mo\u017eete pro\u010ditati <a href=\"https:\/\/www.sp-parfums.de\/produkt\/powder-dust\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">ovdje<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/PSX_91.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/PSX_91.jpg\" alt=\"\" title=\"\"><\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Nakon \u010detiri testirana parfema, prije svega sam radoznala pratiti smjer u kojem \u0107e se prezentirati i razvijati ova ku\u0107a i njezin parfumer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Iako ne mogu pore\u0107i da je strategija SP Parfums ispala plodonosna, nije mi osobito simpati\u010dna.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Dijelom je to i zbog onih novih niche ku\u0107a koje se na gusto napu\u0107enom i vrlo kompetitivnom niche tr\u017ei\u0161tu itekako bore za svoj komadi\u0107 kola\u010da vlastitim promotivnim resursima, ili anga\u017eiraju profesionalne parfumere kako bi osvoji pa\u017enju imenom koje se afirmiralo kroz struku, a ne dru\u0161tvene mre\u017ee ili medije.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u0160to se ti\u010de hypea i anti-hypea, mislim da je Sven Pritzkoleit u punom opsegu dobio ono na \u010demu zasniva svoju tr\u017ei\u0161nu prisutnost:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Medijska isturenost je poput otvorene vatre &#8211; stvarno mora\u0161 znati s njom, a parfemski duhovi koji ju kreiraju zapaljiviji su od parfema. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>To je Sven Pritzkoleit trebao znati i razumjeti, jer se u slu\u010daju Miguela Matosa i Luce Turina radi o vrlo poznatim osobnostima i vrlo poznatom antagonizmu, stoga ga ne smatram u punom smislu kolateralnom \u017ertvom dvojice recenzenata, ve\u0107 \u017ertvom svoje vlastite strategije.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u0160to se Tomelise ti\u010de, mo\u017eda sam previ\u0161e tradicionalna.<br>Kao parfemoljupki koja \u017eeli vjerovati u recenzije i kritiku, znatno mi se vi\u0161e svi\u0111a koncept u kojem produkcija\/marketing i kritika\/recenzenti ne nastupaju ruku pod ruku ili kao neodvojiv entitet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>No, s druge strane, tom konceptu nisam prigovorila pi\u0161u\u0107i o primjeru koji ga je afirmirao: Douchafouru i Denyse Beaulieu, odnosno <a href=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/l-parfumeur-seville\/\"><strong>Seville A L&#8217;Aube<\/strong><\/a> i knjizi <a href=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/citamo-denyse-beaulieu-perfume-lover\/\"><strong>Perfume Lover<\/strong><\/a>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Mo\u017eda je samo stvar u mjeri i onome \u0161to <em>output<\/em> takve poslovno-medijske simbioze donosi meni: <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Od Beaulieu kao recenzentice i kreativne direktorice sam ipak dobila i elaboriran koncept i gomilu informacija te transparentan pregled kako parfema, tako i njegova nastanka. To jest, dobila sam &#8211; jer mi nije bilo te\u0161ko \u010ditati. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>S druge strane, nekoliko puta sam pogledala sam Tomelisein 13-minutni post o &#8220;njenom parfemu&#8221; i najbolje \u0161to mogu re\u0107i jest da nisam dobila puno vi\u0161e od izafektiranih preporuka. <br>Ali, nisam niti izgubila puno vremena, a ni umorila svoj mozak. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Izgleda da je to bitnije nego \u0161to bih ja osobno \u017eeljela da bude. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Razumijem i skepti\u010dne reakcije na hype u dijelu zajednice koji ne poklanja olako povjerenje recenzentima i ve\u0107inu youtube influensera smatra promotorima, a \u010dine mi se i utemeljene u vremenu kada pojeftinjuje \u0161to\u0161ta, ali ne i parfemi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>No, kako god, ja sam me\u0111u \u010detiri parfema Svena Pritzkoleita prona\u0161la \u010dak dva koja mi se svi\u0111aju (od \u010dega jedan koji bih \u017eeljela imati) te jo\u0161 jedan koji bih bez problema mogla preporu\u010diti za testiranje.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>To nije malo, pod uvjetom da \u017eelite platiti dva Pritzkoleitova uzorka kao 4 Tauerova, ELDO-vih 5, tri uzorka kao Nicolaievih ili Heeleyevih 6, a tri i pol kao 16 uzoraka Atelier Cologne,&nbsp; 4 kao Zoologistovih 8 i ne biti posve sigurni pla\u0107ate li, u prezentaciji koja je vrlo efektno moderna, ali i primjetno jeftinija od prezentacija ve\u0107eg dijela gore spomenutih, pritom jo\u0161 i youtubera koji istovremeno zara\u0111uje i na va\u0161im klikovima.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Bottom line: <em>I liked true vintage spirit&amp;style better.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n<style>.kadence-column3384_10ca62-fc > .kt-inside-inner-col{padding-left:10px;}.kadence-column3384_10ca62-fc > .kt-inside-inner-col,.kadence-column3384_10ca62-fc > .kt-inside-inner-col:before{border-top-left-radius:0px;border-top-right-radius:0px;border-bottom-right-radius:0px;border-bottom-left-radius:0px;}.kadence-column3384_10ca62-fc > .kt-inside-inner-col{column-gap:var(--global-kb-gap-sm, 1rem);}.kadence-column3384_10ca62-fc > .kt-inside-inner-col{flex-direction:column;}.kadence-column3384_10ca62-fc > .kt-inside-inner-col > .aligncenter{width:100%;}.kadence-column3384_10ca62-fc > .kt-inside-inner-col{background-color:var(--global-palette1, #3182CE);}.kadence-column3384_10ca62-fc > .kt-inside-inner-col:before{opacity:0.3;}.kadence-column3384_10ca62-fc{position:relative;}.kadence-column3384_10ca62-fc, .kt-inside-inner-col > .kadence-column3384_10ca62-fc:not(.specificity){margin-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-xxl, 5rem);margin-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-sm, 1.5rem);}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.kadence-column3384_10ca62-fc > .kt-inside-inner-col{flex-direction:column;justify-content:center;}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.kadence-column3384_10ca62-fc > .kt-inside-inner-col{flex-direction:column;justify-content:center;}}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-column kadence-column3384_10ca62-fc\" id=\"dopuna\"><div class=\"kt-inside-inner-col\"><style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_3706bb-0c, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_3706bb-0c[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_3706bb-0c\"]{font-size:var(--global-kb-font-size-md, 1.25rem);line-height:2.2;font-style:normal;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_3706bb-0c mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_3706bb-0c[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_3706bb-0c\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_3706bb-0c img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_3706bb-0c[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_3706bb-0c\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}<\/style>\n<h6 class=\"kt-adv-heading3384_3706bb-0c wp-block-kadence-advancedheading has-theme-palette-9-color has-text-color\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_3706bb-0c\">DOPUNA &#8211; 11.9.2022.<\/h6>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n<style>.kb-row-layout-id3384_41fdc2-40 > .kt-row-column-wrap{align-content:start;}:where(.kb-row-layout-id3384_41fdc2-40 > .kt-row-column-wrap) > .wp-block-kadence-column{justify-content:start;}.kb-row-layout-id3384_41fdc2-40 > .kt-row-column-wrap{column-gap:var(--global-kb-gap-md, 2rem);row-gap:var(--global-kb-gap-md, 2rem);padding-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-sm, 1.5rem);padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-sm, 1.5rem);grid-template-columns:minmax(0, calc(50% - ((var(--global-kb-gap-md, 2rem) * 1 )\/2)))minmax(0, calc(50% - ((var(--global-kb-gap-md, 2rem) * 1 )\/2)));}.kb-row-layout-id3384_41fdc2-40 > .kt-row-layout-overlay{opacity:0.30;}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.kb-row-layout-id3384_41fdc2-40 > .kt-row-column-wrap{grid-template-columns:repeat(2, minmax(0, 1fr));}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.kb-row-layout-id3384_41fdc2-40 > .kt-row-column-wrap{row-gap:var(--global-kb-gap-lg, 4rem);grid-template-columns:minmax(0, 1fr);}}<\/style><div class=\"kb-row-layout-wrap kb-row-layout-id3384_41fdc2-40 alignnone wp-block-kadence-rowlayout\"><div class=\"kt-row-column-wrap kt-has-2-columns kt-row-layout-equal kt-tab-layout-inherit kt-mobile-layout-row kt-row-valign-top\">\n<style>.kadence-column3384_b1ee3f-7d > .kt-inside-inner-col,.kadence-column3384_b1ee3f-7d > .kt-inside-inner-col:before{border-top-left-radius:0px;border-top-right-radius:0px;border-bottom-right-radius:0px;border-bottom-left-radius:0px;}.kadence-column3384_b1ee3f-7d > .kt-inside-inner-col{column-gap:var(--global-kb-gap-sm, 1rem);}.kadence-column3384_b1ee3f-7d > .kt-inside-inner-col{flex-direction:column;}.kadence-column3384_b1ee3f-7d > .kt-inside-inner-col > .aligncenter{width:100%;}.kadence-column3384_b1ee3f-7d > .kt-inside-inner-col:before{opacity:0.3;}.kadence-column3384_b1ee3f-7d{position:relative;}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.kadence-column3384_b1ee3f-7d > .kt-inside-inner-col{flex-direction:column;justify-content:center;}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.kadence-column3384_b1ee3f-7d > .kt-inside-inner-col{flex-direction:column;justify-content:center;}}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-column kadence-column3384_b1ee3f-7d\"><div class=\"kt-inside-inner-col\"><style>.kb-image3384_4e9be8-1f .kb-image-has-overlay:after{opacity:0.3;}<\/style>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-kadence-image kb-image3384_4e9be8-1f size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"756\" height=\"1400\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Screenshot_20230124_143845_Firefox-01-756x1400.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"kb-img wp-image-93374\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Screenshot_20230124_143845_Firefox-01-756x1400.jpeg 756w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Screenshot_20230124_143845_Firefox-01-162x300.jpeg 162w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Screenshot_20230124_143845_Firefox-01-768x1422.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Screenshot_20230124_143845_Firefox-01-830x1536.jpeg 830w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Screenshot_20230124_143845_Firefox-01.jpeg 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 756px) 100vw, 756px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n<style>.kadence-column3384_29bbd1-36 > .kt-inside-inner-col,.kadence-column3384_29bbd1-36 > .kt-inside-inner-col:before{border-top-left-radius:0px;border-top-right-radius:0px;border-bottom-right-radius:0px;border-bottom-left-radius:0px;}.kadence-column3384_29bbd1-36 > .kt-inside-inner-col{column-gap:var(--global-kb-gap-sm, 1rem);}.kadence-column3384_29bbd1-36 > .kt-inside-inner-col{flex-direction:column;}.kadence-column3384_29bbd1-36 > .kt-inside-inner-col > .aligncenter{width:100%;}.kadence-column3384_29bbd1-36 > .kt-inside-inner-col:before{opacity:0.3;}.kadence-column3384_29bbd1-36{position:relative;}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.kadence-column3384_29bbd1-36 > .kt-inside-inner-col{flex-direction:column;justify-content:center;}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.kadence-column3384_29bbd1-36 > .kt-inside-inner-col{flex-direction:column;justify-content:center;}}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-column kadence-column3384_29bbd1-36\"><div class=\"kt-inside-inner-col\"><style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_9a3097-6d, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_9a3097-6d[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_9a3097-6d\"]{text-align:center;font-style:normal;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_9a3097-6d mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_9a3097-6d[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_9a3097-6d\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_9a3097-6d img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_9a3097-6d[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_9a3097-6d\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_9a3097-6d, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_9a3097-6d[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_9a3097-6d\"]{padding-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-sm, 1.5rem);}}<\/style>\n<h2 class=\"kt-adv-heading3384_9a3097-6d wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_9a3097-6d\">2020.<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center\">Na polovici globalnog lock-downa Sven Pritzkoleit je oglasio da diskontinuira sve svoje parfeme i  zatvara SP Parfums.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center\">Na vrlo lijepoj web stranici nema vi\u0161e niti jednog podatka o parfemima ovog brenda, uklju\u010duju\u0107i i imena parfema, ali su ostale  objavljene sve pohvalne recenzije. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center\">Krajem 2020. godine je Victor Wong, vlasnik brenda Zoologist, iza\u0161ao u javnost s informacijom kako je otkupio formulu  Powder&amp;Dust te \u0107e nagra\u0111eni parfem nastaviti \u017eivjeti u kolekciji njegovog brenda, ali pod drugim imenom.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center\">Kao kreativna direktorica, \u010diji je doprinos i strukovno priznat nagradom Art and Olfaction, u javnost je <a href=\"https:\/\/m.youtube.com\/watch?v=nDWZzKGunuA\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">videom na svom YouTube kanalu istupila i Yana Lysenko aka <em>Tomelise<\/em> <\/a> s informacijom kako nije bila obavije\u0161tena o ovoj prodaji formule Powder&amp;Dust i nije dobila mogu\u0107nost  otkupiti formulu u \u010dijem je stvaranju sudjelovala, iako je to \u017eeljela i tra\u017eila.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n<style>.kadence-column3384_1f2e80-a9 > .kt-inside-inner-col,.kadence-column3384_1f2e80-a9 > .kt-inside-inner-col:before{border-top-left-radius:0px;border-top-right-radius:0px;border-bottom-right-radius:0px;border-bottom-left-radius:0px;}.kadence-column3384_1f2e80-a9 > .kt-inside-inner-col{column-gap:var(--global-kb-gap-sm, 1rem);}.kadence-column3384_1f2e80-a9 > .kt-inside-inner-col{flex-direction:column;}.kadence-column3384_1f2e80-a9 > .kt-inside-inner-col > .aligncenter{width:100%;}.kadence-column3384_1f2e80-a9 > .kt-inside-inner-col:before{opacity:0.3;}.kadence-column3384_1f2e80-a9{position:relative;}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.kadence-column3384_1f2e80-a9 > .kt-inside-inner-col{flex-direction:column;justify-content:center;}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.kadence-column3384_1f2e80-a9 > .kt-inside-inner-col{flex-direction:column;justify-content:center;}}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-column kadence-column3384_1f2e80-a9\"><div class=\"kt-inside-inner-col\"><style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_af0cb5-4d, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_af0cb5-4d[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_af0cb5-4d\"]{text-align:center;font-style:normal;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_af0cb5-4d mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_af0cb5-4d[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_af0cb5-4d\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_af0cb5-4d img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading3384_af0cb5-4d[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_af0cb5-4d\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}<\/style>\n<h2 class=\"kt-adv-heading3384_af0cb5-4d wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading3384_af0cb5-4d\">2022.<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>U kolovozu 2022. godine Zoologist je predstavio Cockatiel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Pritzkoleitovu formulu reformulirao je IFF, a na Zoologistovim stranicama je, za razliku od Pritzkoleitovog weba, navedena je i kreativna direkcija Yane Lysenko.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n<style>.kadence-column3384_66e5c3-f3 > .kt-inside-inner-col,.kadence-column3384_66e5c3-f3 > .kt-inside-inner-col:before{border-top-left-radius:0px;border-top-right-radius:0px;border-bottom-right-radius:0px;border-bottom-left-radius:0px;}.kadence-column3384_66e5c3-f3 > .kt-inside-inner-col{column-gap:var(--global-kb-gap-sm, 1rem);}.kadence-column3384_66e5c3-f3 > .kt-inside-inner-col{flex-direction:column;}.kadence-column3384_66e5c3-f3 > .kt-inside-inner-col > .aligncenter{width:100%;}.kadence-column3384_66e5c3-f3 > .kt-inside-inner-col:before{opacity:0.3;}.kadence-column3384_66e5c3-f3{position:relative;}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.kadence-column3384_66e5c3-f3 > .kt-inside-inner-col{flex-direction:column;justify-content:center;}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.kadence-column3384_66e5c3-f3 > .kt-inside-inner-col{flex-direction:column;justify-content:center;}}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-column kadence-column3384_66e5c3-f3\"><div class=\"kt-inside-inner-col\"><style>.kb-image3384_cdcdd7-de .kb-image-has-overlay:after{opacity:0.3;}<\/style>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-kadence-image kb-image3384_cdcdd7-de size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"919\" height=\"1400\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Screenshot_20230124_142125_Opera-01-919x1400.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"kb-img wp-image-93366\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Screenshot_20230124_142125_Opera-01-919x1400.jpeg 919w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Screenshot_20230124_142125_Opera-01-197x300.jpeg 197w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Screenshot_20230124_142125_Opera-01-768x1170.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Screenshot_20230124_142125_Opera-01-1008x1536.jpeg 1008w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Screenshot_20230124_142125_Opera-01.jpeg 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 919px) 100vw, 919px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n<\/div><\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Testirala sam Violet Moss, Suntanglam, Sunmilkflowers i Powder&#038; Dust.<br \/>\nNadopuna: brend je prestao postojati 2020. godine, a nagra\u0111eni Powder\/Dust pre\u0161ao je u kolekciju kanadskog Zoologista.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":69662,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_kad_blocks_custom_css":"","_kad_blocks_head_custom_js":"","_kad_blocks_body_custom_js":"","_kad_blocks_footer_custom_js":"","_kad_post_transparent":"","_kad_post_title":"","_kad_post_layout":"","_kad_post_sidebar_id":"","_kad_post_content_style":"","_kad_post_vertical_padding":"","_kad_post_feature":"","_kad_post_feature_position":"","_kad_post_header":false,"_kad_post_footer":false,"_kad_post_classname":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[1666],"tags":[],"kreator":[1866,2795],"topic":[3905],"brand":[2794],"parfemska_grupa":[],"note":[],"organization":[],"osobe":[],"serijal":[],"class_list":["post-3384","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-parfemi","kreator-miguel-matos","kreator-sven-pritzkoleit","topic-recenzije","brand-sp-parfums"],"acf":{"show_related_posts":false,"related-post_1":null,"related-post_2":null,"related-post_3":null,"related-post_4":null,"related-post_5":null,"related-post_6":null,"related-post_7":null,"related-post_8":null,"related-post_9":null,"related-post_10":null},"taxonomy_info":{"category":[{"value":1666,"label":"Parfemi"}],"kreator":[{"value":1866,"label":"Miguel 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