{"id":166187,"date":"2024-05-02T17:03:52","date_gmt":"2024-05-02T15:03:52","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/?post_type=mirisni-trag&#038;p=166187"},"modified":"2025-05-12T10:58:36","modified_gmt":"2025-05-12T08:58:36","slug":"antoine-chiris-1768-1967","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/antoine-chiris-1768-1967\/","title":{"rendered":"Antoine Chiris  (1768. &#8211; 1967.) &#8211; za\u010detak parfemske industrije"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>Parfemska ku\u0107a Antoine Chiris osnovana je 1768. godine u Grasseu i prva je parfemska ku\u0107a koja je obrtni\u010dku proizvodnju mirisa uzdigla na razinu industrije. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Uspon industrijske dinastije <font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">Chiris od malog obrta u centru Grassea do globalnog koncerna s dru\u0161tvima i agencijama te tvornicama u Europi, Americi, Aziji i Africi trajao je vi\u0161e od 150 godina.<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><br>K<font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">roz vi\u0161e od stolje\u0107a <font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">(1830.-1939.)<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font>, Chiris je na globalnoj razini dominirao industrijskom proizvodnjom prirodnih mirisnih materijala.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Pri\u010da o usponu i padu industrijske dinastije Chiris oslikava i povijest parfemske industrije, a globalni utjecaj Chirisa danas je predmet znanstvenih istra\u017eivanja koja se bave i (zamra\u010denom) kolonijalnom povije\u0161\u0107u parfumera iz Grassea.<sup class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote \" data-mfn=\"1\" data-mfn-post-scope=\"00000000000018500000000000000000_166187\"><a href=\"javascript:void(0)\"  role=\"button\" aria-pressed=\"false\" aria-describedby=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-1\">1<\/a><\/sup><span id=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-1\" role=\"tooltip\" class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote__note\" tabindex=\"0\" data-mfn=\"1\">Izvori koje sam koristila u dijelovima ovog popularnog prikaza, a koji se odnose na \u010dlanove obitelji te na poslovanje Chirisa su zbog rastere\u0107ivanja teksta skupno navedeni u ovoj bilj\u0161ci. <br>Dalje se u zasebnim bilje\u0161kama navode samo reference na podatke koje specifi\u010dno donose pojedini autori, ili na podatke koji se kod autora razlikuju.<br><br><strong>&#8211;<\/strong> <strong>Cocoual, M.<\/strong> <strong>(2017.)<\/strong> Aux sources des parfums : Industrialization et approvisionnement de la parfumerie grassoise (milieu XIXe \u2013 milieu XXe si\u00e8cle). Histoire. Universit\u00e9 C\u00f4te d&#8217;Azur, 2017. Str. 273. URL: <a href=\"https:\/\/theses.hal.science\/tel-01698978\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">ffNNT: 2017AZUR2045ff.; fftel-01698978ff<\/a><br><br><strong>&#8211;<\/strong> <strong>Perrin, E., Baumann,&nbsp;M., Buttner, O. (2016)<\/strong> Fondation, croissance, opportunit\u00e9s et d\u00e9clin de la production des mati\u00e8res premi\u00e8res pour la parfumerie&nbsp;: l\u2019exemple de Chiris (1768-1967),&nbsp;Cahiers de la M\u00e9diterran\u00e9e&nbsp;92&nbsp;|&nbsp;2016, URL: <a href=\"https:\/\/journals.openedition.org\/cdlm\/8391\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/journals.openedition.org\/cdlm\/839<\/a><br><br><strong>&#8211; Cocoual, M. (2016.)<\/strong>, La famille Chiris: des industriels en politique, une politique d\u2019industriels?<em>Cahiers de la M\u00e9diterran\u00e9e, 92 | 2016<\/em>, URL: <br><a href=\"https:\/\/journals.openedition.org\/cdlm\/8359\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/journals.openedition.org\/cdlm\/8359<\/a><br><br>&#8211; <strong>Benalloul, G. (2010.)  <\/strong>Historiqies des Soci\u00e9t\u00e9s de parfumerie de Grasse: 1800. &#8211; 1839. <em>&nbsp;<em>Recherches r\u00e9gionales, 201\/2010<\/em>. &nbsp;Nica, Archives d\u00e9partementales des Alpes-Maritimes, 2010.&nbsp;<\/em>URL: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.google.com\/url?sa=t&amp;source=web&amp;rct=j&amp;opi=89978449&amp;url=https:\/\/www.departement06.fr\/documents\/Import\/decouvrir-les-am\/recherchesregionales201-10.pdf&amp;ved=2ahUKEwj_s-WmnOOFAxUXVPEDHV48DLAQFnoECBwQAQ&amp;usg=AOvVaw1DTF5_HcBwYr6h_FI2KvVh  \" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/www.google.com\/url?sa=t&amp;source=web&amp;rct=j&amp;opi=89978449&amp;url=https:\/\/www.departement06.fr\/documents\/Import\/decouvrir-les-am\/recherchesregionales201-10.pdf&amp;ved=2ahUKEwj_s-WmnOOFAxUXVPEDHV48DLAQFnoECBwQAQ&amp;usg=AOvVaw1DTF5_HcBwYr6h_FI2KvVh<\/a> <\/span><br><\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-image.kb-image166187_4f0677-61:not(.kb-specificity-added):not(.kb-extra-specificity-added){margin-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);margin-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-image kb-image166187_4f0677-61\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"638\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Antoine_Chiris_in_the_world_-_btv1b84587181-1-1.jpg.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"kb-img wp-image-166294\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Antoine_Chiris_in_the_world_-_btv1b84587181-1-1.jpg.webp 1024w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Antoine_Chiris_in_the_world_-_btv1b84587181-1-1.jpg-300x187.webp 300w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Antoine_Chiris_in_the_world_-_btv1b84587181-1-1.jpg-768x479.webp 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption>Izvor: Biblioth\u00e8que nationale de France, d\u00e9partement Cartes et plans, GE D-8336, <a href=\"https:\/\/commons.wikimedia.org\/wiki\/File:Antoine_Chiris_in_the_world_-_btv1b84587181.jpg\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Wikipedia file<\/a>  (karta iz 1920-ih)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-image.kb-image166187_418de4-fb:not(.kb-specificity-added):not(.kb-extra-specificity-added){margin-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);margin-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-image kb-image166187_418de4-fb\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1400\" height=\"1354\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/11452006-1400x1354.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"kb-img wp-image-166283\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/11452006-1400x1354.jpg 1400w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/11452006-300x290.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/11452006-768x743.jpg 768w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/11452006-scaled.jpg 1448w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\" \/><figcaption>Iz: Les \u00c9tablissements Chiris dans le monde, Chiris, 1931. (v. bilje\u0161ku)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Po\u010deci <font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">Chrisovog <font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">\u0161irenja izravno su vezani uz politiku Karla V. i drugi francuski kolonijalni imperij, odnosno ekspanziju francuskih kolonijalnih teritorija u Africi i otocima u Indijskom oceanu, Indokini, Polineziji te Ju\u017enoj Americi i Tahitiju razdoblju od 1830. &#8211; 1914.<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Prigrlilv\u0161i paternalisti\u010dko-domoljubnu poziciju prema novim terororijima, Chirisi su, uz jo\u0161 nekoliko proizvo\u0111a\u010da iz Grassea <font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">(Roure-Bertrand, Robertet, Lautier, Vial i Muraour)<\/font><\/font>, pro\u0161irili svoje poslovanje u kolonije:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nakon uspostave kolonije, Chiris je na licu mjesta gradio centre za prikupljanje i preradu sirovina i dovodio iz Francuske upravu koja je obu\u010davala predradnike te unajmljivala lokalnu radnu snagu za rad na posjedima.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">Poslovni model koji je sredinom 19. stolje\u0107a uspostavio Chiris, a zatim i drugi proizvo\u0111a\u010di iz Grassea ostao je u obliku vizije uloge francuske parfemske industrije prisutan sve do danas:<\/font><\/font><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Uz pristup jeftinijim zemlji\u0161tima i radnoj snazi, proizvo\u0111a\u010di sirovina autonomno su upravljali cijelim proizvodnim lancem, neovisno o raznim posrednicima i dobavlja\u010dima te kontrolirali cijene svojih proizvoda, neovisno o poreme\u0107ajima na tr\u017ei\u0161tu. Ekonomska ovisnost lokalnih zajednica i podr\u0161ka dr\u017eavne politike otvarala im je i mogu\u0107nost za dodatne pritiske.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>U zamjenu za ekonomsku ovisnost, nerazvijena podru\u010dja u koja su zavr\u0161ila pod francuskom zastavom dobila su priliku za ubrzan poljoprivredni i infrastrukturni razvoj, \u0161to je koloniziranim lokalnim zajednicama na\u010delno osiguravalo stabilnost, zapo\u0161ljavanje lokalnog stanovni\u0161tva i modernizaciju cjelokupnog \u017eivota.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">Na svom vrhuncu (1880. &#8211; 1939.), Chiris je imao planta\u017ee, postrojenja i tvornice te agencije po cijelom svijetu te opskrbljivao najve\u0107e parfemske ku\u0107e poput od Cotyja, Guerlaina, Chanela i Yardleya.<\/font><\/font><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Uspon Chirisa tako\u0111er je bio potaknut <font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">po\u010decima globalizacije i otvaranjem novih tr\u017ei\u0161ta u Sjedinjenim Dr\u017eavama i Rusiji<\/font><\/font> te sna\u017enim tehnolo\u0161kim napretkom u podru\u010djima koja su organski vezana uz industrijsku proizvodnju mirisa.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">Zahvaljuju\u0107<\/font><\/font>i javnim du\u017enostima i<font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"> uspostavljanju obiteljskih veza s pripadnicima vrha francuske dr\u017eavne politike<\/font><\/font>, industrijska dinastija Chiris prosperirala tijekom kolonijalizma i u po\u010decima globalizma.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-image.kb-image166187_25da1b-35:not(.kb-specificity-added):not(.kb-extra-specificity-added){margin-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);margin-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-image kb-image166187_25da1b-35\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"996\" height=\"1400\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_180507_Drive-01-996x1400.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"kb-img wp-image-166365\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_180507_Drive-01-996x1400.jpeg 996w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_180507_Drive-01-213x300.jpeg 213w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_180507_Drive-01-768x1079.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_180507_Drive-01.jpeg 1058w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 996px) 100vw, 996px\" \/><figcaption>Izvor:  Cocoual, M. (2017.), str. 285.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Kao kod drugih proizvo\u0111a\u010da iz Grassea, upravljanje Chirisom prenosilo se s oca na (prvog) sina.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Zbog za\u0161tite proizvodnih tajni te stru\u010dnog znanja i iskustva, svi proizvo\u0111a\u010di u Grasseu su sve do 1960-ih prema svojim zaposlenicima provodili politiku tzv. <em>prisilne lojalnosti<\/em><sup class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote \" data-mfn=\"2\" data-mfn-post-scope=\"00000000000018500000000000000000_166187\"><a href=\"javascript:void(0)\"  role=\"button\" aria-pressed=\"false\" aria-describedby=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-2\">2<\/a><\/sup><span id=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-2\" role=\"tooltip\" class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote__note\" tabindex=\"0\" data-mfn=\"2\">Perrin, E., Baumann,&nbsp;M., Buttner, O. (2016) t\u010d. 30-31<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Bazen novih radnika \u010dinili su \u010dlanovi obitelji samih zaposlenika. Ponude za posao se nisu ogla\u0161avale, jer su zaposlenici sami unaprijed obavje\u0161tavali poslovo\u0111e koliko \u010dlanova njihovih obitelji stoji na raspolaganju gazdi, ako bude slobodnog mjesta.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Posljedi\u010dno, cijele obitelji bile su ovisne o istom poslodavcu pa zato i lojalne: promjena poslodavaca nije bila zabranjena, ali je u praksi bila nemogu\u0107a, ili krajnje ote\u017eana stvarnim rizikom da i svi \u010dlanovi obitelji nelojalnog radnika ostanu bez posla.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>S druge strane, u vremenima lo\u0161e \u017eetve ili krize, kao \u0161to je bilo 1930-ih, kada su i prihodi proizvo\u0111a\u010da bili mali, gazde su brinuli da iz svake obitelji zadr\u017ee dovoljno zaposlenika da obitelji mogu pre\u017eivjeti, a onda ih ponovno zapo\u0161ljavali kada su se prinosi i prihodi pobolj\u0161ali.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Uz tisu\u0107e kolonijalnih radnika doljem svijeta, <font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">Chiris je u po\u010detkom 20. stolje\u0107a samo u Grasseu zapo\u0161ljavao 350 radnika, \u010demu treba pridodati mre\u017eu od stotinjak dobavlja\u010da na jugoistoku Francuske.<\/font><\/font><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Za razliku od ve\u0107ine vlasnika iz Grassea, Chirisi su kod ku\u0107e vodili naprednu i lijevo orijentiranu socijalnu politiku:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ve\u0107 na prijelazu u 20. stolje\u0107e Chiris je imao osnovan mirovinski fond, dru\u0161tvo za uzajamno osiguranje, vrti\u0107 za radni\u010dku djecu i program stambenog zbrinjavanja zaposlenika u namjenski izgra\u0111enim ku\u0107ama.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u017dene poslovo\u0111a su nakon radnog vremena vodile radionice pletenja ili \u0161ivanja te izrade krpenih lutaka, a iz prodaje su financirane dobrotvorne aktivnosti tvornice i pomo\u0107 radnicima.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>U drugoj polovini 19. stolje\u0107a Edmond Chiris je, nakon smrti svoje \u017eene, dao svoju ku\u0107u pretvoriti u stara\u010dki dom, a isto \u0107e napraviti i njegov brat L\u00e9on nakon smrti svoje supruge. Nakon smrti dvojice svojih malih sinova, supruga Georgesa Chirisa otvorila je dje\u010dji dom u kojem su se zbrinjavala bolesna djeca, te prihvatili\u0161te za neudate majke sa \u0161kolom za doma\u0107instvo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Posljedi\u010dno, Chiris je ostao prakti\u010dki neokrznut radni\u010dkim prosvjedima s po\u010detka 20. stolje\u0107a, nakon \u0161to je 1900. u Grasseu osnovan sindikat. Tako\u0111er nije pretrpio ve\u0107e posljedice niti kada je 1936. do\u0161lo je do op\u0107eg \u0161trajka u svim proizvo\u0111a\u010dima parfema u Grasseu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Po\u010detkom 1930-ih, uslijed pove\u0107anih tro\u0161kova proizvodnje u Francuskoj i pove\u0107ane konkurencije sintetiziranih materijala, poslovanje je po\u010delo posrtati. Za razliku od najve\u0107eg konkurenta, Roure-Bertranda (danas Givaudan), Chiris nije usko\u010dio u posao s sinteticima.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">Propadanje Chirisovog industrijskog carstva zapo\u010delo je s drugim svjetskim ratom i francuskim gubitkom kolonij<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font>a.<font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"> <\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">U drugoj polovini 1960-ih, nakon dvije<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font> stotine<font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"> godina postojanja, tvrtku preuzima ameri\u010dka multinacionalna kompanija Americans Universal Oil Products (UOP), a ime Chiris ubrzo nestaje iz svijeta parfumerst<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font>va. <\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_994ce0-d0, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_994ce0-d0[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_994ce0-d0\"]{padding-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-xxs, 0.5rem);text-align:left;font-style:normal;text-transform:none;border-bottom:1px solid var(--global-palette3, #1A202C);}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_994ce0-d0 mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_994ce0-d0[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_994ce0-d0\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_994ce0-d0 img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_994ce0-d0[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_994ce0-d0\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_994ce0-d0, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_994ce0-d0[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_994ce0-d0\"]{text-align:left!important;border-bottom:1px solid var(--global-palette3, #1A202C);}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_994ce0-d0, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_994ce0-d0[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_994ce0-d0\"]{text-align:left!important;border-bottom:1px solid var(--global-palette3, #1A202C);}}<\/style>\n<h2 class=\"kt-adv-heading166187_994ce0-d0 wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_994ce0-d0\">1. Po\u010deci (1768.-1830.)<\/h2>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_80b767-5b, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_80b767-5b[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_80b767-5b\"]{padding-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-xxs, 0.5rem);text-align:left;font-style:normal;text-transform:uppercase;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_80b767-5b mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_80b767-5b[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_80b767-5b\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_80b767-5b img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_80b767-5b[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_80b767-5b\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_80b767-5b, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_80b767-5b[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_80b767-5b\"]{text-align:left!important;}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_80b767-5b, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_80b767-5b[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_80b767-5b\"]{text-align:left!important;}}<\/style>\n<h3 class=\"kt-adv-heading166187_80b767-5b wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_80b767-5b\">Antoine (DE) CHIRIS (1748. &#8211; 1816.)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">Tvrtka Antoine Chiris dobila je ime po njezinom osniva\u010du, Antoine<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font>u<font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"> (<font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">de) Chirisu.<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-image.kb-image166187_6a99e7-96:not(.kb-specificity-added):not(.kb-extra-specificity-added){margin-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);margin-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);}<\/style>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-kadence-image kb-image166187_6a99e7-96 size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"133\" height=\"175\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/AdeChiris.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"kb-img wp-image-166229\" title=\"\"><figcaption>Antoine Chiris  (1748 &#8211; 1816)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">Antoine Chiris ro\u0111en je u bogatoj obitelji talijanskog porijekla koja se 1739. nastanila u Grasseu. Njegov otac,<\/font><\/font> Jean-Anselme Chiris, bio je majstor pekar, a majka k\u0107i trgovca i \u010de\u0161ljara.<\/font><\/font><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Antoine je trebao nastaviti <font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">o\u010dev zanat. No, nakon \u0161to se 1776. vjen\u010dao s Anne M\u00e9rignon, k\u0107eri trgovca parfemima, Antoine mijenja \u017eivotni poziv i 1767. putuje u Pariz, a po povratku u Grasse1768. slu\u017ebeno osniva svoju tvrtku.<\/font><\/font><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><em>Les \u00c9tablissements Chiris dans le monde<\/em>, monografija koju je tvrtka Chiris objavila 1931.<\/font><\/font><sup class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote \" data-mfn=\"3\" data-mfn-post-scope=\"00000000000018500000000000000000_166187\"><a href=\"javascript:void(0)\"  role=\"button\" aria-pressed=\"false\" aria-describedby=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-3\">3<\/a><\/sup><span id=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-3\" role=\"tooltip\" class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote__note\" tabindex=\"0\" data-mfn=\"3\"><strong><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">Mazuyer, G. <\/font><\/font>(1931)<\/strong> Les Entablissements Antoine Chiris dans le monde.<em> Etablissements Antoine Chiris<\/em>, 1931. URL: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.davidrumsey.com\/ll\/thumbnailView.html?startUrl=%2F%2Fwww.davidrumsey.com%2Fluna%2Fservlet%2Fas%2Fsearch%3Fos%3D0%26q%3Dpub_list_no%3D%2211452.000%22%26bs%3D10\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/www.davidrumsey.com\/ll\/thumbnailView.html?startUrl=%2F%2Fwww.davidrumsey.com%2Fluna%2Fservlet%2Fas%2Fsearch%3Fos%3D0%26q%3Dpub_list_no%3D%2211452.000%22%26bs%3D10<\/a><\/span>, u vrijeme Antoineovog pra-praunuka Georgesa, po\u010detke opisuje druga\u010dije:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Antione je otputovao u Pariz prije braka s Anne M\u00e9rignon i na nagovor svog oca pekara, u prolje\u0107e 1761., kako bi u Parizu otvorio trgovinu pekarskim proizvodima. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">Prema tom izvoru, Antoine se k<font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">retao u pari\u0161kom visokom dru\u0161tvu i postao dio kruga oko Luja XV<\/font><\/font>. , pa <font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">je dobio priliku i susresti se s direktorima<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><strong><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"> La Compagnie des Indes<\/font><\/font><\/strong><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">, francuskog ekvivalenta The East India Trading Company<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font>. Razgovori o egzoti\u010dnim za\u010dinima i esencijama koje su se prikupljale u dalekim zemljama, a potom i skupo prodavale su ga i poslovno zainteresirali. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">Prema Chirisovoj monografiji, Antoine je upravo zahvaljuju\u0107i svojoj <font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">poslovnoj pronicljivosti i o\u0161troumnosti<\/font><\/font> prepoznao budu\u0107e potrebe <font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">tr\u017ei\u0161ta, odustao od slastica i \u010dokolade te se dalekovidno usmjerio na proizvodnju parfema.<\/font><\/font><\/font> <font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><\/font><\/font><\/font><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><\/font><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nesporno je, me\u0111utim, da je 20-godi\u0161nji Antoine odmah po povratku iz Pariza, ve\u0107 1768. na Place Neuve u Grasseu otvorio prvu Chirisovu radionicu za preradu sirovina te zapo\u010deo prodavati sapune, masti, mirisne vodice i \u010diste esencije.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Dio materijala za svoje proizvode je dobavljao, a dio sam proizvodio destilacijom tradicionalnih kultura s podru\u010dja Grassea (ru\u017ee, jasmina, narcisa, tuberoze, mimoze, lavande). Posao mu je provjetao pod Carstvom.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">Umro je 1831. u 83. godini \u017eivota, nakon 48 godina upravljanja Chirisom, a poslove je naslijedio njegov sin Anselme, s kojim zapo\u010dinje Chirisov rast izvan granica Grassea.<\/font><\/font><\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_47625a-07, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_47625a-07[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_47625a-07\"]{padding-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-xxs, 0.5rem);text-align:left;font-style:normal;text-transform:none;border-bottom:1px solid var(--global-palette3, #1A202C);}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_47625a-07 mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_47625a-07[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_47625a-07\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_47625a-07 img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_47625a-07[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_47625a-07\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_47625a-07, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_47625a-07[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_47625a-07\"]{text-align:left!important;border-bottom:1px solid var(--global-palette3, #1A202C);}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_47625a-07, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_47625a-07[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_47625a-07\"]{text-align:left!important;border-bottom:1px solid var(--global-palette3, #1A202C);}}<\/style>\n<h2 class=\"kt-adv-heading166187_47625a-07 wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_47625a-07\">2. <font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">Uspon i dominacija (1830. &#8211; 1939.)<\/font><\/font><\/h2>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_94ac3a-d3, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_94ac3a-d3[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_94ac3a-d3\"]{padding-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-xxs, 0.5rem);text-align:left;font-style:normal;text-transform:none;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_94ac3a-d3 mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_94ac3a-d3[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_94ac3a-d3\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_94ac3a-d3 img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_94ac3a-d3[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_94ac3a-d3\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_94ac3a-d3, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_94ac3a-d3[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_94ac3a-d3\"]{text-align:left!important;}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_94ac3a-d3, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_94ac3a-d3[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_94ac3a-d3\"]{text-align:left!important;}}<\/style>\n<h3 class=\"kt-adv-heading166187_94ac3a-d3 wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_94ac3a-d3\">ANSELME (1777. &#8211; 1842.)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Tisu\u0107e hektara plodne zemlje stavljene na raspolaganje industrijalcima u kolonijama pripojenima Francuskoj svakako su bile privla\u010dne proizvo\u0111a\u010dima iz Grassea, a Anselme je bio jedan od prvih koji je, jo\u0161 za o\u010deva \u017eivota, krenuo prema kolonijama.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Anselme je formalno stupio na \u010delo Chirisa u 55. godini, no za \u017eivota svog oca aktivno je sudjelovao u radu tvrtke, stekao vrlo visoku razinu znanja o stranim tr\u017ei\u0161tima i nau\u010dio upravljati tvrtkom koja se \u0161irila. Prou\u010davao je i sirovine i mirisne kompozicije, a posebno su ga zanimale prve znanstvene studije ulja, koje se pojavljuju nakon 1825.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">S krajem Napoleonova Carstva (1815.) iznova se otvorilo i englesko tr\u017ei\u0161te, pa Anselme nakon putuje i u Englesku. <\/font><\/font><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">Rezultat Chirisove prisitnosti Britaniji bio je ugovor s engleskim Yardlyjem (osnovanim 1777., iste godine kada je ro\u0111en Anselme). U ovoj suradnji Chiris \u0107e dugoro\u010dno profitirati: nakon vrlo uspje\u0161nog sapuna od lavande za koje je upravo Chiris osiguravao lavandino ulje, 1873. Yardley je lansirao svoj najpoznatiji miris &#8211; <em>English Lavender<\/em>.<\/font><\/font><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Uz trgovinu, Anselme se bavio i javnom slu\u017ebom pa je1835. imenovan sucem Trgova\u010dkog suda u Grasseu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Anselme se 1803. o\u017eenio Marie Levens s kojom je 1811. dobio sina L\u00e9opolda, koji je tako\u0111er od malena u\u010dio voditi obiteljski posao.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Krajem njegovog \u017eivota, radionica u Cour Neuve postala je premala pa je premje\u0161tena u biv\u0161i kapucinski samostan, koji je nakon Revolucije ostao prazan.<sup class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote \" data-mfn=\"4\" data-mfn-post-scope=\"00000000000018500000000000000000_166187\"><a href=\"javascript:void(0)\"  role=\"button\" aria-pressed=\"false\" aria-describedby=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-4\">4<\/a><\/sup><span id=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-4\" role=\"tooltip\" class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote__note\" tabindex=\"0\" data-mfn=\"4\">Prema Cocoual, M. (2016.), La famille Chiris&#8230;<br>Nasuprot, Perrin, E., Baumann,&nbsp;M., Buttner, O. (2016) navode da je proizvodnja premje\u0161tena 1868., u vrijeme njegovog unuka, Leona Chirisa.<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_e9fc8b-25, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_e9fc8b-25[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_e9fc8b-25\"]{padding-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-xxs, 0.5rem);text-align:left;font-style:normal;text-transform:uppercase;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_e9fc8b-25 mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_e9fc8b-25[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_e9fc8b-25\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_e9fc8b-25 img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_e9fc8b-25[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_e9fc8b-25\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_e9fc8b-25, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_e9fc8b-25[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_e9fc8b-25\"]{text-align:left!important;}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_e9fc8b-25, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_e9fc8b-25[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_e9fc8b-25\"]{text-align:left!important;}}<\/style>\n<h3 class=\"kt-adv-heading166187_e9fc8b-25 wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_e9fc8b-25\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">L\u00e9opold (1811.-1862.)<\/font><\/font><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Leopold je preuzeo upravljanje Chirisom na po\u010detku svojih 30-ih i vodio ga 20 godina, znatno kra\u0107e od oca i djeda. <font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">Umro naglo,<\/font><\/font> <font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">u 53. godini \u017eivota.<\/font><\/font><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Iako se Leopoldova uprava povezuje uz dvije klju\u010dne Chirisove akvizicije, njihovi datumi su, me\u0111utim, kontroverzni:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has--font-size\">Prema nekim izvorima<sup class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote \" data-mfn=\"5\" data-mfn-post-scope=\"00000000000018500000000000000000_166187\"><a href=\"javascript:void(0)\"  role=\"button\" aria-pressed=\"false\" aria-describedby=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-5\">5<\/a><\/sup><span id=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-5\" role=\"tooltip\" class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote__note\" tabindex=\"0\" data-mfn=\"5\">Perrin, E., Baumann,&nbsp;M., Buttner, O. (2016.), t\u010d.19 <\/span>imanje Sainte-Marguerite u Boufariku kupio je Leopold ve\u0107 1836. godine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has--font-size\">Iako je sigurno da je Chiris u to vrijeme sura\u0111ivao s dobavlja\u010dima iz Boufarika, U cijelom Boufariku se za Leopoldova \u017eivota tek provodilo kolonijalno okrupnjavanje posjeda i isu\u0161ivanje mo\u010dvarnih terena, a na imanju Sanite-Marguerite izvedeni su tek pripremni radovi, poput kr\u010denja te izgradnje cesta.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has--font-size\">Sainte-Marguerite definitivno pre\u0161la u Chirisovo vlasni\u0161tvo izme\u0111u 1865. i 1868. godine<sup class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote \" data-mfn=\"6\" data-mfn-post-scope=\"00000000000018500000000000000000_166187\"><a href=\"javascript:void(0)\"  role=\"button\" aria-pressed=\"false\" aria-describedby=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-6\">6<\/a><\/sup><span id=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-6\" role=\"tooltip\" class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote__note\" tabindex=\"0\" data-mfn=\"6\">Cocoual, M. (2017.), str. 294.<\/span> pod upravom <font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">Leopoldovog sina L\u00e9on<\/font><\/font>a, koji \u0107e pretvoriti Boufarik u klju\u010dno Chirisovo sjevernoafri\u010dko proizvodno sredi\u0161te.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has--font-size\">Na vrhuncu mo\u0107i, u 1920-ima i 1930-ima, Chiris \u0107e iskoristiti tvornicu i planta\u017ee Sainte-Marguerite u Boufariku i u marketin\u0161ke svrhe:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has--font-size\">Leopoldov unuk Georges prezentirat \u0107e Boufarik kao model<em><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"> <\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font>&#8220;<font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">Grassea<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/em><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><em><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"> izvan Grassea\u201c<\/font><\/font><\/em><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">, odnosno kao strate\u0161ki i ideolo\u0161ki primjer napredne simbioze parfemske industrije i lokalne zajednice.<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Druga velika Chirisova akvizicija koja se smje\u0161tava za Leopoldova \u017eivota bio je moskovski <strong>Rallet<\/strong>, <font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">1846.<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><sup class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote \" data-mfn=\"7\" data-mfn-post-scope=\"00000000000018500000000000000000_166187\"><a href=\"javascript:void(0)\"  role=\"button\" aria-pressed=\"false\" aria-describedby=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-7\">7<\/a><\/sup><span id=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-7\" role=\"tooltip\" class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote__note\" tabindex=\"0\" data-mfn=\"7\">Godina preuzimanja prema Perrin, E., Baumann,&nbsp;M., Buttner, O. (2016.), t\u010d. 21. <br>Sli\u010dno navodi i Cocoual, M. (2017.), str. 275. i Cocoual, M. (2016) La famille Chiris: des industriels&#8230; <br>S druge strane, u vi\u0161e neznanstvenih online izvora navode se razli\u010dite i kasnije godine kada je Chiris kupio Rallet.<br>Prete\u017eno je rije\u010d o 1898. godini, ali bez reference na izvor podatka.<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">S preuzimanjem Ralleta, Chiris je stekao klju\u010dnu bazu za Chirisovo \u0161irenje <\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font>izvan Europe, na istok. <br>Nakon kupnje, Rallet je zadr\u017eao ime i upravu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">Rallet je 1843. u Moskvi osnovao Francuz i parfumer <strong>Alphons Rallet<\/strong> (1819. \u2013 1894.)<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font>, koji je nastavio voditi tvrtku do povratka u Francusku 1856. godine. Nakon odlaska iz Rusije, Alphons Rallet se posvetio obnovi svog dvorca u Biviersu i javnoj du\u017enosti, pa je od 1865. to 1888. obavljao je du\u017enost na\u010delnika Biviersa. <br>Vo\u0111enje Ralleta kao tehni\u010dki direktor preuzima Edouard Beaux, a zatim Rallet sve do 1917. vodi njegov sin, parfumer <strong>Ernest Beaux<\/strong>, u 1920-ima kreator parfema za Coco Chanel, izme\u0111u ostalog i slavnog N. 5.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Rallet je u drugoj polovini 19. postao najja\u010di proizvo\u0111a\u010d na brzorastu\u0107em ruskom tr\u017ei\u0161tu i ostao upam\u0107en kao ekskluzivni dobavlja\u010d ruskog, perzijskog, srpskog i crnogorskog dvora.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has--font-size\">Nakon Leopoldove nagle smrti, upravljanje tvrtkom ostalo je na njegova dva sina, 20-godi\u0161njacima <font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">L\u00e9onu (1839.) i Edmondu (1842.)<\/font><\/font>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has--font-size\">Mla\u0111i Edmond se usmjerio na \u0161irenje tr\u017ei\u0161ta u Srednjoj Europi i na javnu du\u017enost: <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has--font-size\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">Nastavljaju\u0107i tradiciju svog djeda Anselma<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font>, Edmond postaje predsjednik trgova\u010dkog suda u Grasseu. Istu funkciju obavljat \u0107e kasnije i Georges Chiris, njegov ne\u0107ak, Leonov sin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has--font-size\">Pozicija suca trgova\u010dkog suda svakako je bila od interesa obitelji Chiris, jer su ti sudovi nadle\u017eni za ste\u010dajeve, likvidacije, oporavke i sl. te sporove vezane uz kupoprodaje, kredite i nelojalnu konkurenciju.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has--font-size\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">Upravljanje tvrtkom u cijelosti je preuzeo stariji sin, L\u00e9on<\/font><\/font>,<font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"> &#8220;\u010dovjek od akcije&#8221; te dinami\u010dan i ambiciozan lider, \u010dije \u0107e izra\u017eene poslovne vrline<\/font><\/font> pretvoriti Chiris u globalno industrijsko carstvo. <\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_376953-69, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_376953-69[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_376953-69\"]{padding-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-xxs, 0.5rem);text-align:left;font-style:normal;text-transform:uppercase;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_376953-69 mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_376953-69[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_376953-69\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_376953-69 img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_376953-69[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_376953-69\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_376953-69, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_376953-69[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_376953-69\"]{text-align:left!important;}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_376953-69, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_376953-69[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_376953-69\"]{text-align:left!important;}}<\/style>\n<h3 class=\"kt-adv-heading166187_376953-69 wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_376953-69\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">L\u00e9on Chiris<\/font><\/font> (1839. &#8211; 1900.)<\/h3>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-image.kb-image166187_4ab3e8-89:not(.kb-specificity-added):not(.kb-extra-specificity-added){margin-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);margin-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);}<\/style>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-kadence-image kb-image166187_4ab3e8-89 size-full\"><a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/File:L%C3%A9on_Chiris_(1839-1900).png\" class=\"kb-advanced-image-link\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"222\" height=\"282\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Leon_Chiris_1839-1900.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"kb-img wp-image-166231\" title=\"\"><\/a><figcaption>Leon Chiris (1839 &#8211; 1900.), izvor: Wikipedia<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>L\u00e9on Chiris je na \u010delo kompanije stupio vrlo mlad, u 24. godini, a upravljao je Chirisom 38 godina. <br>Vjeran o\u010devim planovima, nastavio je \u0161irenje Chirisa u francuskim kolonijama, osvajanje novih tr\u017ei\u0161ta te izgradnju proizvodnih kapaciteta.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">Pred kraj Drugog carstva (1852. -1870.) L\u00e9on Chiris u\u0161ao je u politiku i izgradio \u010dvrstu mre\u017eu utjecaja u regiji i Parizu<\/font><\/font>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Prvo je postao op\u0107inski vije\u0107nik Grassea, zatim op\u0107inski vije\u0107nik&nbsp;Saint-Aubana, a nakon pada Carstva pridru\u017eio se lijevoj Republikanskoj stranci i nastavio politi\u010dki uspon u Alpes-Maritimesu. <br>Za zastupnika Grassea izabran je 1876., 1877. i 1881., a 1882. gotovo jednoglasno je izabran za senatora, i tako je ostalo sve do njegove smrti.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Njegovim zalaganjem, u Senatu su pro\u0161la dva projekta koja su bila klju\u010dna za daljnji razvoj parfemske industrije u Grasseu:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Za L\u00e9onova mandata, nakon prethodnog odbijanja, odobren je projekt gradnje kanala Foulon (1885.), koji opskrbljuje vodom Grasse i njegovu okolicu, a koji je bio klju\u010dan za \u0161irenje nasada. <br>Tako\u0111er je odobren projekt ju\u017ene \u017eeljezni\u010dke pruge koja je Tourettes (Grasse) povezala s Nicom i omogu\u0107ila brzi transport uroda od polja do tvornica, a onda i prijevoz sirovina do Nice, glavne luke.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Politi\u010dkim uspjesima L\u00e9ona Chirisa doprinijelo je i \u010dvrsto prijateljstvo te vi\u0161estruke bra\u010dne veze s mo\u0107nom politi\u010dkom obitelji Carnot.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Sadi Carnot bio je predsjednik Francuske Republike od 1887. do 1894. godine, u vrijeme najve\u0107eg politi\u010dkog uspona L\u00e9ona Chirisa. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Svo troje L\u00e9onove djece brakom se povezalo s obitelji Carnot: <br>U vrijeme Carnotovog predsjedni\u010dkog mandata, L\u00e9onove k\u0107eri Valentina i Margarita udale su se za sinove Sadija Carnota (1890. i 1894.), a L\u00e9onov nasljednik Georges Chiris o\u017eenio je 1902. \u00c9milie Cunisset-Carnot, unuku Sadija Carnota.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Godine 1891. upravo je L\u00e9on Chiris ugostio kraljicu Viktoriju na ve\u010deri u svojoj villi Saint-Georges, \u0161to je bio neprijeporan izraz priznanja ugleda i va\u017enosti industrijske dinastije Chiris.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-image.kb-image166187_726173-9d:not(.kb-specificity-added):not(.kb-extra-specificity-added){margin-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);margin-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-image kb-image166187_726173-9d\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1200\" height=\"848\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/35_a2d548de2960c5df1cd53ef8c4f28a960f557061.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"kb-img wp-image-166606\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/35_a2d548de2960c5df1cd53ef8c4f28a960f557061.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/35_a2d548de2960c5df1cd53ef8c4f28a960f557061-300x212.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/35_a2d548de2960c5df1cd53ef8c4f28a960f557061-768x543.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" \/><figcaption>Grafika na kojoj Leon Chiris prikazuje proces destilacije kraljici Viktoriji, objavljena na naslovnici <a href=\"https:\/\/www.alamy.com\/an-engraving-depicting-queen-victoria-being-shown-the-distillation-process-at-chris-perfume-factory-at-grasse-dated-19th-century-image235212130.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">The Illustrated London News 25. travnja 1891.<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-image.kb-image166187_e01918-4e:not(.kb-specificity-added):not(.kb-extra-specificity-added){margin-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);margin-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-image kb-image166187_e01918-4e\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"703\" height=\"500\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Queen-Victoria-Grasse-1891.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"kb-img wp-image-166238\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Queen-Victoria-Grasse-1891.jpg 703w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Queen-Victoria-Grasse-1891-300x213.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 703px) 100vw, 703px\" \/><figcaption> Posjet kraljice Viktorije Grasseu. Izvor: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.rct.uk\/collection\/2105752\/queen-victoria-and-attendants-grasse-1891\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Royal Collection Trust<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>L\u00e9on Chiris je jo\u0161 za \u017eivota u Grasseu ostao upam\u0107en kao industrijalac &#8211; dobrotvor zajednice. <br>\u010cetrnaest godina nakon njegove smrti, Grasse mu je podigao spomenik, a njegovo ime nosi i gradska srednja \u0161kola.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-image.kb-image166187_877ef9-43:not(.kb-specificity-added):not(.kb-extra-specificity-added){margin-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);margin-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);}.kb-image166187_877ef9-43.kb-image-is-ratio-size, .kb-image166187_877ef9-43 .kb-image-is-ratio-size{max-width:600px;width:100%;}.wp-block-kadence-column > .kt-inside-inner-col > .kb-image166187_877ef9-43.kb-image-is-ratio-size, .wp-block-kadence-column > .kt-inside-inner-col > .kb-image166187_877ef9-43 .kb-image-is-ratio-size{align-self:unset;}.kb-image166187_877ef9-43 figure{max-width:600px;}.kb-image166187_877ef9-43 .image-is-svg, .kb-image166187_877ef9-43 .image-is-svg img{width:100%;}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-image kb-image166187_877ef9-43\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"934\" height=\"1400\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Grasse_-_Monument_a_Leon_Chiris-1-934x1400.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"kb-img wp-image-166292\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Grasse_-_Monument_a_Leon_Chiris-1-934x1400.jpg 934w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Grasse_-_Monument_a_Leon_Chiris-1-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Grasse_-_Monument_a_Leon_Chiris-1-768x1151.jpg 768w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Grasse_-_Monument_a_Leon_Chiris-1-1025x1536.jpg 1025w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Grasse_-_Monument_a_Leon_Chiris-1.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" \/><figcaption>Spomenik L\u00e9onu Chirisu, Grasse<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_8857f6-0a, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_8857f6-0a[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_8857f6-0a\"]{padding-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-xxs, 0.5rem);text-align:left;font-style:normal;text-transform:none;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_8857f6-0a mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_8857f6-0a[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_8857f6-0a\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_8857f6-0a img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_8857f6-0a[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_8857f6-0a\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_8857f6-0a, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_8857f6-0a[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_8857f6-0a\"]{text-align:left!important;}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_8857f6-0a, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_8857f6-0a[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_8857f6-0a\"]{text-align:left!important;}}<\/style>\n<h4 class=\"kt-adv-heading166187_8857f6-0a wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_8857f6-0a\">Tehnolo\u0161ki razvoj<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>Razvoj parnog stroja u 19. stolje\u0107u unaprijedio je i proizvodnju mirisa, a Chirisi postaju prvi industrijalci u Grasseu koji su svoje strojeve pokretali parom.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>U drugoj polovini 19. stolje\u0107a Chiris tako\u0111er prvi zapo\u010dinje primijenjivati novu metodu ekstrakcije hlapljivim otapalima, koja je, uz sintetizirane materijale, omogu\u0107ila razvoj moderne parfemske industrije, kakvu poznajemo danas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Tehniku ekstrakcije hlapljivim otapalima razvili su Naudin i Massignon 1860-ih, a Leon Chiris je prvi, ve\u0107 1879. otkupio ove patente, time stekav\u0161i zna\u010dajnu poslovnu prednost.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_3ab532-ea, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_3ab532-ea[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_3ab532-ea\"]{padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-xxs, 0.5rem);text-align:left;font-style:normal;text-transform:none;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_3ab532-ea mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_3ab532-ea[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_3ab532-ea\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_3ab532-ea img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_3ab532-ea[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_3ab532-ea\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_3ab532-ea, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_3ab532-ea[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_3ab532-ea\"]{text-align:left!important;}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_3ab532-ea, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_3ab532-ea[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_3ab532-ea\"]{text-align:left!important;}}<\/style>\n<p class=\"kt-adv-heading166187_3ab532-ea wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_3ab532-ea\"><strong>Ekstrakcija hlapljivim otapalima<\/strong><sup class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote \" data-mfn=\"8\" data-mfn-post-scope=\"00000000000018500000000000000000_166187\"><a href=\"javascript:void(0)\"  role=\"button\" aria-pressed=\"false\" aria-describedby=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-8\">8<\/a><\/sup><span id=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-8\" role=\"tooltip\" class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote__note\" tabindex=\"0\" data-mfn=\"8\"><strong>Charabot, E. (1900.)<\/strong>&nbsp;Les Parfums artificiels.&nbsp;<em>Encyclop\u00e9die Industrielle, Libraire J.-B.&nbsp;<\/em>Bailli\u00e8re et Fils, Paris, 1900.<br><br><strong><strong>Benalloul, G. (2010.)<\/strong><\/strong>, Techniques de parfumerie \u00e0 Grasse. <em>Recherches r\u00e9gionales, god 51\/br. 196<\/em>. &nbsp;Nica, Archives d\u00e9partementales des Alpes-Maritimes, 2010. URL: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.departement06.fr\/documents\/Import\/decouvrir-les-am\/recherchesregionales196-06.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/www.departement06.fr\/documents\/Import\/decouvrir-les-am\/recherchesregionales196-06.pdf<\/a>,<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Povijest parfumerstva u Grasseu vitalno je vezana uz razvoj tehnika prerade aromatskih i mirisnih biljaka u mirisne materijale:<br>Do druge polovine 19. stolje\u0107a vodice, masti i ulja kao osnovni poluproizvodi za daljnju proizvodnju dobivale su se dvama tehnikama:&nbsp;<em>enfleurageom<\/em>, koji je bio poznat jo\u0161 od antike i&nbsp;<em>parnom destilacijom<\/em>, prenesenom u Europu u srednjem vijeku.<br><br>Dok su se ru\u017ea i, primjerice, lavanda destilirale, hladni enfleurage (polaganje latica u sloj hladne masti i pu\u0161tanja ona zarobi mirisne molekule) je bio tehnika kojom se obra\u0111ivalo najdelikatnije cvije\u0107e poput jasmina, tuberoze i mimoze.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nova tehnika, <em>ekstrakcija hlapljivim otapalima<\/em>, rezultirala je i novom vrstom proizvoda &#8211; absolutima, koji u odnosnu na materijale dobivene tradiconalnim tehnikama, imaju bogatiji i dublji mirisni profil.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-image.kb-image166187_7e2a64-88:not(.kb-specificity-added):not(.kb-extra-specificity-added){margin-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);margin-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-image kb-image166187_7e2a64-88\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1400\" height=\"991\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240429_131112_Drive-01-1400x991.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"kb-img wp-image-167056\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240429_131112_Drive-01-1400x991.jpeg 1400w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240429_131112_Drive-01-300x212.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240429_131112_Drive-01-768x544.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240429_131112_Drive-01.jpeg 1525w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\" \/><figcaption>Tako\u0111er Chiris, tvornica u Grasseu, rad ekstraktora. Izvor: Cocoual, M. (2017), str. 42<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Posljedi\u010dno, tehnika ekstrakcije hlapljivim otapalima zamijenila je hladni enfelurage, smanjila tro\u0161kove proizvodnje i postavila nove zahtjeve vezano uz proizvodne prostore.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Za razliku od enfleuragea i destilacije, koje je bilo mogu\u0107e prilagoditi uvjetima manjih i\/ili vi\u0161enamjenskih prostora, ekstrakcija hlapljivim otapalima je industrijska metoda u kojoj se koriste lako hlapljivi i zapaljuju\u0107i materijali (heksan, benzen, etanol). Zbog toga je tra\u017eila prostore primjerene veli\u010dine s provjetravanjem, odnosno namjenski izgra\u0111ene prostore.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>U Grasseu se stoga zapo\u010dinju graditi moderne tvornice, a Chiris je i u tome bio prvi.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_6a250b-fd, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_6a250b-fd[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_6a250b-fd\"]{padding-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-xs, 1rem);padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-xxs, 0.5rem);text-align:left;font-style:normal;text-transform:none;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_6a250b-fd mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_6a250b-fd[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_6a250b-fd\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_6a250b-fd img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_6a250b-fd[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_6a250b-fd\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_6a250b-fd, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_6a250b-fd[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_6a250b-fd\"]{text-align:left!important;}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_6a250b-fd, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_6a250b-fd[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_6a250b-fd\"]{padding-top:0px;text-align:left!important;}}<\/style>\n<h4 class=\"kt-adv-heading166187_6a250b-fd wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_6a250b-fd\">Proizvodnja i tr\u017ei\u0161ta <\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>U drugoj polovini 1860-ih Leon Chiris je s dotada\u0161njim upraviteljem imanja u Boufariku (Al\u017eir), kolonistom Polycarpeom Grosom, potpisao ugovor o partnerstvu kojim imanje Sainte-Marguerite prelazi u vlasni\u0161tvo trgova\u010dkog dru\u0161tva Antoine Chiris, a Gros ostaje njegov upravitelj.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Imanje Sainte- Marguierite u Boufariku \u0107e za L\u00e9onova \u017eivota pro\u0107i preobrazbu iz lokalnog uzgojno-prera\u0111iva\u010dkog centra u najmodernicju tvornicu, po \u010dijem \u0107e uzoru L\u00e9on potom izgraditi i novu Chirisovu tvornicu u Grasseu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nakon \u0161to je u studenome 1869. otvoren Sueski kanal te pojednostavljen pristup Indiji i izvorima novih prirodnih sirovina na Dalekom istoku, Chiris \u0161iri posjede u novim kolonijama u Indokini, Kini (\u0160angaj), Polineziji.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Poslovanjem preko Ralleta, Chiris nastavlja ja\u010dati na ruskom tr\u017ei\u0161tu, a pod kraj \u017eivota preko podru\u017enice u New Yorku prodire i na novo tr\u017ei\u0161te &#8211; u Sjedinjene Ameri\u010dke Dr\u017eave.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_0ec5c7-8e, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_0ec5c7-8e[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_0ec5c7-8e\"]{padding-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-xs, 1rem);padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-xxs, 0.5rem);text-align:left;font-style:normal;text-transform:none;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_0ec5c7-8e mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_0ec5c7-8e[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_0ec5c7-8e\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_0ec5c7-8e img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_0ec5c7-8e[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_0ec5c7-8e\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_0ec5c7-8e, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_0ec5c7-8e[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_0ec5c7-8e\"]{text-align:left!important;}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_0ec5c7-8e, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_0ec5c7-8e[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_0ec5c7-8e\"]{padding-top:0px;text-align:left!important;}}<\/style>\n<h5 class=\"kt-adv-heading166187_0ec5c7-8e wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_0ec5c7-8e\">Sainte-Marguerite u Boufariku (Al\u017eir)<\/h5>\n\n\n\n<p>Me\u0111u kolonijalnim posjedima, imanje Sainte-Marguerite u Boufariku bilo je klasa za sebe.<sup class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote \" data-mfn=\"9\" data-mfn-post-scope=\"00000000000018500000000000000000_166187\"><a href=\"javascript:void(0)\"  role=\"button\" aria-pressed=\"false\" aria-describedby=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-9\">9<\/a><\/sup><span id=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-9\" role=\"tooltip\" class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote__note\" tabindex=\"0\" data-mfn=\"9\"><strong>Demassieux, N. (2022) <\/strong>Le domaine Sainte-Marguerite \u00e0 Boufarik. (Online) URL: <a href=\"https:\/\/nicolas.demassieux.fr\/2022\/12\/14\/le-domaine-sainte-marguerite-a-boufarik\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/nicolas.demassieux.fr\/2022\/12\/14\/le-domaine-sainte-marguerite-a-boufarik\/<\/a>. <br>Svi podaci u ovom tekstu o \u017eivotu i proizvodnji na imanju Sainte-Marguerite u Boufariku preneseni su iz ovog rada. <br>Nicolas Demarchieux sa\u010duvao je i prenio tekst (<em>&#8220;Monografija imanja Sainte-Marguerite&#8221;<\/em>), koji je 1960-ih napisala <strong>Apure Yvorra<\/strong>, unuka Ferdinanda Delauzuna, zaposlenika imanja. Rukopis njezine monografije, koja nije objavljena, sadr\u017ei podatke iz obiteljskog arhiva te podatke iz  necjelovito sa\u010duvanog Chirisovog arhiva. Iako tekst Apure Yvorra nije znanstveno vrednovan, na njega se osvr\u0107e i Cocoual, M. (2017), str. 292-293.  <\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Dok su uvjeti \u017eivota i tehnolo\u0161ka opremljenost na kolonijalnim imanjima bili daleko od dobrih, planta\u017ea u Boufariku zami\u0161ljena je kao &#8220;<em>produ\u017eetak Grassea izvan Sredozemlja<\/em>&#8221; i \u0161iroko kori\u0161tena u marketingu kompanije.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Godine 1869. na imanju je ve\u0107 postojao ljetnikovac, dvori\u0161te s objektima za smje\u0161taj osoblja, konju\u0161nica i pekara. Smje\u0161taj za stalne radnike bio je dobar, samci su se hranili u za njih organiziranoj kantini, a s vremenom se pobolj\u0161avao smje\u0161taj i skra\u0107ivalo radno vrijeme.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Prva (&#8220;stara&#8221;) tvornica bila je opremljena s 4 parna generatora, 28 ure\u0111aja za destilaciju i laboratorijima za masti i mirisna ulja dobivena iz geranija, cvijeta gorke naran\u010de, crnog ribiza, metvice, eukaliptusa i verbene.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Uz spremi\u0161ta sirovina, uz tvornicu se nalazilo i spremi\u0161te alata te kova\u010dke, stolarske, ba\u010dvarske, sedlarske radionice za odr\u017eavanje poljoprivredne opreme.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Sainte-Marguerite proizvodila je i maslinovo ulje i vino. Na imanju se nalazio veliki vinski podrum s 37 hrastovih ba\u010dvi od po 300 do 400 hektolitara vina, prostorijom sa 6 posuda za fermentaciju te po jednom parnom drobilicom i ru\u010dnom pre\u0161om.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Stalno osoblje imanja bilo je sastavljeno od domoroda\u010dkog stanovni\u0161tva, odnosno 300-tinjak Muslimana koji su \u017eivjeli u blizini u zemljanim kolibama, \u0160panjolaca koji su pristigli iz siroma\u0161nih regija pokrajine Alicante te razvoja\u010denih pripadnika francuske vojske iz Camp d&#8217;Erlona (Boufarik), uglavnom samaca koji su bili nastanjeni na samom imanju.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Uz stalne radnike, Boufarik je zapo\u0161ljavao i dodatnu radnu snagu, koja je u potrazi za poslom pratila kolonizatorsku vojsku.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Platne liste za godine 1882. i 1885. iskazuju izme\u0111u 400 i 500 radnika, ovisno o mjesecu, a u vrijeme \u017eetvi njihov broj se penjao na 800.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Radni dan je 1880-ih trajao od izlaska do zalaska sunca. Svaka dva tjedna, nakon isplate pla\u0107e, radnici su imali pravo na pola dana odmora.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Uz zadr\u017eanih 200 ha eukaliptusa te nasade verbene, ru\u017ee i jasmina, u razdoblju izme\u0111u 1887. i 1898. znatno su pove\u0107ani nasadi geranija (s 30 na 218 hektara), naran\u010de (s 40 na 138 ha) te vinogradi (s 200 na 305 ha).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Kapaciteti stare tvornice postali su nedovoljni, pa je L\u00e9on 1893. zapo\u010deo gradnju nove, moderne tvornice. Tvornica u Boufariku dovr\u0161ena je 1896., a prostirala se na 3 000 \u010detvornih metara.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.kadence-column166187_919940-34 > .kt-inside-inner-col,.kadence-column166187_919940-34 > .kt-inside-inner-col:before{border-top-left-radius:0px;border-top-right-radius:0px;border-bottom-right-radius:0px;border-bottom-left-radius:0px;}.kadence-column166187_919940-34 > .kt-inside-inner-col{column-gap:var(--global-kb-gap-sm, 1rem);}.kadence-column166187_919940-34 > .kt-inside-inner-col{flex-direction:column;}.kadence-column166187_919940-34 > .kt-inside-inner-col > .aligncenter{width:100%;}.kadence-column166187_919940-34 > .kt-inside-inner-col:before{opacity:0.3;}.kadence-column166187_919940-34{position:relative;}.kadence-column166187_919940-34, .kt-inside-inner-col > .kadence-column166187_919940-34:not(.specificity){margin-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-lg, 3rem);}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.kadence-column166187_919940-34 > .kt-inside-inner-col{flex-direction:column;justify-content:center;}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.kadence-column166187_919940-34 > .kt-inside-inner-col{flex-direction:column;justify-content:center;}}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-column kadence-column166187_919940-34 kb-section-dir-vertical\"><div class=\"kt-inside-inner-col\"><style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedgallery .kb-gallery-type-grid.kb-gallery-id-166187_ceda7f-d5{margin:-5px;}.kb-gallery-type-grid.kb-gallery-id-166187_ceda7f-d5 .kadence-blocks-gallery-item{padding:5px;}.kb-gallery-id-166187_ceda7f-d5 .kadence-blocks-gallery-item .kb-gal-image-radius, .kb-gallery-id-166187_ceda7f-d5 .kb-slide-item .kb-gal-image-radius img{border-radius:0px 0px 0px 0px;;}.kb-gallery-id-166187_ceda7f-d5 .kadence-blocks-gallery-item .kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner .kadence-blocks-gallery-item__caption{font-size:17px;font-family:'BODY Bold';font-weight:400;color:var(--global-palette3, #1A202C);}.kb-gallery-caption-style-bottom.kb-gallery-id-166187_ceda7f-d5 .kadence-blocks-gallery-item .kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner .kadence-blocks-gallery-item__caption, .kb-gallery-caption-style-bottom-hover.kb-gallery-id-166187_ceda7f-d5 .kadence-blocks-gallery-item .kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner .kadence-blocks-gallery-item__caption{background:linear-gradient(0deg, var(--global-palette9, #ffffff) 0, rgba(0, 0, 0, 0) 100%);}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.kb-gallery-id-166187_ceda7f-d5 .kadence-blocks-gallery-item .kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner .kadence-blocks-gallery-item__caption{font-size:16px;}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.kb-gallery-id-166187_ceda7f-d5 .kadence-blocks-gallery-item .kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner .kadence-blocks-gallery-item__caption{font-size:15px;}}<\/style><div class=\"kb-gallery-wrap-id-166187_ceda7f-d5 alignnone wp-block-kadence-advancedgallery\"><ul class=\"kb-gallery-ul kb-gallery-non-static kb-gallery-type-grid kb-gallery-id-166187_ceda7f-d5 kb-gallery-caption-style-bottom kb-gallery-filter-none\" data-image-filter=\"none\" data-item-selector=\".kadence-blocks-gallery-item\" data-lightbox-caption=\"true\" data-columns-xxl=\"2\" data-columns-xl=\"2\" data-columns-md=\"2\" data-columns-sm=\"2\" data-columns-xs=\"1\" data-columns-ss=\"1\"><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kadence-blocks-gallery-item-has-caption\"><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-square kb-has-image-ratio-square\" ><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Boufarik-5.jpg\" width=\"658\" height=\"632\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Boufarik-5.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Boufarik-5.jpg\" data-id=\"166243\" class=\"wp-image-166243\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Boufarik-5.jpg 658w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Boufarik-5-300x288.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 658px) 100vw, 658px\" \/><\/div><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item__caption\">Tvornica na Sainte-Margerite<\/div><\/div><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure\"><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-square kb-has-image-ratio-square\" ><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Boufarik-1.jpg\" width=\"800\" height=\"655\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Boufarik-1.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Boufarik-1.jpg\" data-id=\"166324\" class=\"wp-image-166324\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Boufarik-1.jpg 800w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Boufarik-1-300x246.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Boufarik-1-768x629.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure\"><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-square kb-has-image-ratio-square\" ><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Boufarik-3.jpg\" width=\"1024\" height=\"868\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Boufarik-3.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Boufarik-3.jpg\" data-id=\"166328\" class=\"wp-image-166328\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Boufarik-3.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Boufarik-3-300x254.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Boufarik-3-768x651.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure\"><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-square kb-has-image-ratio-square\" ><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Boufarik-2.jpg\" width=\"1006\" height=\"1024\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Boufarik-2.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Boufarik-2.jpg\" data-id=\"166326\" class=\"wp-image-166326\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Boufarik-2.jpg 1006w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Boufarik-2-295x300.jpg 295w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Boufarik-2-768x782.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1006px) 100vw, 1006px\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kadence-blocks-gallery-item-has-caption\"><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-square kb-has-image-ratio-square\" ><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Boufarik-7.jpg\" width=\"600\" height=\"438\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Boufarik-7.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Boufarik-7.jpg\" data-id=\"166235\" class=\"wp-image-166235\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Boufarik-7.jpg 600w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Boufarik-7-300x219.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/div><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item__caption\">Destilacija geranija<\/div><\/div><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kadence-blocks-gallery-item-has-caption\"><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-square kb-has-image-ratio-square\" ><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Boufarik-6.jpg\" width=\"1024\" height=\"686\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Boufarik-6.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Boufarik-6.jpg\" data-id=\"166334\" class=\"wp-image-166334\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Boufarik-6.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Boufarik-6-300x201.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Boufarik-6-768x515.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/div><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item__caption\">Nasadi naran\u010di<\/div><\/div><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kadence-blocks-gallery-item-has-caption\"><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-square kb-has-image-ratio-square\" ><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Boufarik-4.jpg\" width=\"1024\" height=\"760\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Boufarik-4.jpg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Boufarik-4.jpg\" data-id=\"166330\" class=\"wp-image-166330\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Boufarik-4.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Boufarik-4-300x223.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Boufarik-4-768x570.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/div><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item__caption\">Ku\u0107e za obitelji predradnika<\/div><\/div><\/figure><\/div><\/li><\/ul><\/div>\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_186420-00, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_186420-00[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_186420-00\"]{padding-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-xxs, 0.5rem);text-align:left;font-size:1rem;font-style:normal;text-transform:none;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_186420-00 mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_186420-00[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_186420-00\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_186420-00 img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_186420-00[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_186420-00\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_186420-00, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_186420-00[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_186420-00\"]{text-align:left!important;}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_186420-00, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_186420-00[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_186420-00\"]{font-size:0.95rem;text-align:left!important;}}<\/style>\n<p class=\"kt-adv-heading166187_186420-00 wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_186420-00\">Fotografije:<a href=\"https:\/\/nicolas.demassieux.fr\/2022\/12\/14\/le-domaine-sainte-marguerite-a-boufarik\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"> <strong>Le domaine Sainte-Marguerite \u00e0 Boufarik,&nbsp;Nicolas Demassieux<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Nova tvornica bila je golem i moderan kompleks sa staklenim krovom i veli\u010danstvenim prozorima. Dimnjak visine 35 metara ispuhivao je rad 20 kotlova. U prednjem dijelu prizemlja nalazile su se arhivske prostorije, a u podrumu skladi\u0161ta parfemskih esencija.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>U unutra\u0161njosti proizvodnog dijela nalazilo se 5 velikih Babcok i Wilcox kotlova za destilaciju, od kojih je svaki zauzimao povr\u0161inu od 100 m<sup>2<\/sup>&nbsp;i opskrbljivao po 30 destilatora napravljenih od crvenog bakra, s kapacitetom od po 2000 litara. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>U sklopu tvornice nalazio se i zaseban proizvodni pogon prilago\u0111en novom postupku ekstrakcije hlapljivim otapalima, u kojem se dobivao absolut crnog ribiza i ru\u017ee.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Pogon je imao i sustav za zbrinjavanje otpada, pa su se biljni ostaci nakon prerade vagonima otpremali u jame, u kojima se stajanjem proizvodio humus za gnojivo planta\u017ea.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Cijela nova tvornica bila je elektrificirana: struju je davao parni stroj Piquet od 30 konjskih snaga, koji je pokretao 2 generatora snage 22 kilovata, koji su proizvodili istosmjernu struju. Generatori su punili i 60 akumulatora za osvjetljavanje gospodarskih zgrada tijekom no\u0107i.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>U doba kada je vrlo mali dio Europljana u svojim domovima imao elektri\u010dnu rasvjetu, na Boufariku su \u010dak i staje i podrumi bili osvijetljeni \u017earuljama sa \u017earnom niti.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>U 1930-ima je radno vrijeme na Sainte-Marie bilo gotovo jednako onome u Grasseu. Chiris je i u Boufariku uspostavio sustav zbrinjavanja umirovljenih radnika. Sainte-Margerite bila je i zna\u010dajno lokalno kulturno sredi\u0161te.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Uz prilagodbe u vremenima krize 1930-ih i svjetskih ratova, imanje Chirisovih u Boufariku poslovalo je sve do njegove nacionalizacije 1963. godine.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_5c77d5-4d, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_5c77d5-4d[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_5c77d5-4d\"]{padding-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-xxs, 0.5rem);text-align:left;font-style:normal;text-transform:none;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_5c77d5-4d mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_5c77d5-4d[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_5c77d5-4d\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_5c77d5-4d img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_5c77d5-4d[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_5c77d5-4d\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_5c77d5-4d, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_5c77d5-4d[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_5c77d5-4d\"]{text-align:left!important;}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_5c77d5-4d, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_5c77d5-4d[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_5c77d5-4d\"]{text-align:left!important;}}<\/style>\n<h4 class=\"kt-adv-heading166187_5c77d5-4d wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_5c77d5-4d\">Parfemi<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>Uz proizvidnju materijala za proizvodnju parfema i kozmetike za klijente, pred kraj 19. stolje\u0107a Chiris je zapo\u010deo proizvoditi i parfeme pod svojim imenom. No, o njima je malo sa\u010duvanih podataka.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-image.kb-image166187_e7b48c-9b:not(.kb-specificity-added):not(.kb-extra-specificity-added){margin-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);margin-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-image kb-image166187_e7b48c-9b\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"502\" height=\"425\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/4a446890b138a44a1bee3750334f1b4d.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"kb-img wp-image-166822\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/4a446890b138a44a1bee3750334f1b4d.jpg 502w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/4a446890b138a44a1bee3750334f1b4d-300x254.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 502px) 100vw, 502px\" \/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>U vrijeme Leona, a potom i njegovog sina Georgesa, i Chiris je, poput svih proizvo\u0111a\u010da mirisa iz Grassea, imao neki oblik naukovanja za budu\u0107e parfumere. <br>Dok imena drugih u\u010denika nisu poznata, jedan jest:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Bio je to Korzikanac talijanskog porijekla, Fran\u00e7ois Spoturno, tada mladi i vrlo ambiciozan poduzetnik, a svega nekoliko godina kasnije prvi francuski milijuna\u0161, i \u010dovjek koji je revolucionarno utjecao na svjetsku parfemsku povijest te odigrao klju\u010dnu ulogu u transformaciji europskog i ameri\u010dkog tr\u017ei\u0161ta parfema.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>U 1903., kada je naukovao kod Chirisa kako bi savladao zanat parfumera i kreirao svoj prvi parfem, o \u010demu je rije\u010d ne\u0161to ni\u017ee, ve\u0107 je promijenio ime u <strong>Fran\u00e7ois Coty.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_f58ee3-9a, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_f58ee3-9a[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_f58ee3-9a\"]{padding-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-xxs, 0.5rem);text-align:left;font-style:normal;text-transform:none;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_f58ee3-9a mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_f58ee3-9a[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_f58ee3-9a\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_f58ee3-9a img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_f58ee3-9a[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_f58ee3-9a\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_f58ee3-9a, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_f58ee3-9a[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_f58ee3-9a\"]{text-align:left!important;}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_f58ee3-9a, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_f58ee3-9a[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_f58ee3-9a\"]{text-align:left!important;}}<\/style>\n<h5 class=\"kt-adv-heading166187_f58ee3-9a wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_f58ee3-9a\">&#8220;Mosquee&#8221; &#8211; nova Chirisova tvornica u Grasseu<\/h5>\n\n\n\n<p>Pod kraj \u017eivota, 1899., Leon Chiris otvorio je i novu tvornicu u Grasseu u aveniji Pierre Semard. <br>Tvornica je izgra\u0111ena po uzoru na tvornicu na imanju Sainte-Marguerite u Boufarku i pro\u0161arana maurskim ornamentima, zbog \u010dega je u Grasseu nazvana &#8220;D\u017eamija&#8221;.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">Nova tvornica<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font> prostirala se na povr\u0161ini od 4.582 m2 i omogu\u0107avala unutarnju ventilaciju, odnosno moderan na\u010din izvjetravanja zapaljivih i otrovnih plinova, nusprodukata ekstrakcije hlapljivim otapalima. <\/font><\/font><\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-image.kb-image166187_0ae62c-57:not(.kb-specificity-added):not(.kb-extra-specificity-added){margin-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);margin-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-image kb-image166187_0ae62c-57\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1400\" height=\"788\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/2_20240425_191345_0001-1400x788.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"kb-img wp-image-166267\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/2_20240425_191345_0001-1400x788.jpg 1400w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/2_20240425_191345_0001-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/2_20240425_191345_0001-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/2_20240425_191345_0001-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/2_20240425_191345_0001.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\" \/><figcaption> Nova Chirisova tvornica, grafika iz 1920. Izvor: Muzej parfumerstva u Grasseu, press materijal s izlo\u017ebe MIP-a povodom 120 godina Prodaroma. (<em><a href=\"https:\/\/www.google.com\/url?sa=t&amp;source=web&amp;rct=j&amp;opi=89978449&amp;url=https:\/\/www.museesdegrasse.com\/sites\/default\/files\/dp_prodarom.pdf&amp;ved=2ahUKEwiRi5jd9eCFAxVlAtsEHT_4ATMQFnoECBEQAQ&amp;usg=AOvVaw2rFS75NU33ybQFlD3nVw13\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Exposition r\u00e9trospective &#8211; 120 de Prodarome \u00bb, 2018<\/a>.<\/em>) Original grafike \u010duva se u Muzeju parfumerstva u Grasseu.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Godine 1922., pod upravom Leoneovog sina Georgesa, dodatno su modernizirani i pro\u0161ireni proizvodni prostori.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">U prvoj polovini 1920-ih Chiris je dao snimiti seriju kratkih dokumentarno-promotovnih filmova o proizvodnji u Grasseu, a dio je sa\u010duvan i restauriran. <\/font><\/font><br><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">Na jednom od njih, naslovljenom <\/font><\/font><em><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">In the Perfumed land<\/font><\/font><\/em> <sup class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote \" data-mfn=\"10\" data-mfn-post-scope=\"00000000000018500000000000000000_166187\"><a href=\"javascript:void(0)\"  role=\"button\" aria-pressed=\"false\" aria-describedby=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-10\">10<\/a><\/sup><span id=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-10\" role=\"tooltip\" class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote__note\" tabindex=\"0\" data-mfn=\"10\">  <font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><strong>Cocoual<\/strong>, <strong>M. (2014)<\/strong> In the perfumed land &#8211; <em>Film d&#8217;Enterprise r\u00e9alis\u00e9 par Max Dianvillea ann\u00e9es 1920.<\/em> Recherches r\u00e9gionales. Alpes-Maritimes et contr\u00e9es limitrophes, 2014. URL: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.departement06.fr\/documents\/A-votre-service\/Culture\/archives\/recherches-regionales\/cg06_recherchesregionales207_14.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/www.departement06.fr\/documents\/A-votre-service\/Culture\/archives\/recherches-regionales\/cg06_recherchesregionales207_14.pdf<\/a>.<\/font><\/font><\/span><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"> prikazan je proces proizvodnje od branja ru\u017ee na Chirisovom imanju, preko procesa ekstrakcije do proizvodnje i pakiranja gotovih proizvoda u D\u017eamiji, novoj tvornici izgra\u0111enoj za vrijeme Leona Chirisa:<\/font><\/font><\/p>\n\n\n<style>.kadence-column166187_6ee10e-62 > .kt-inside-inner-col,.kadence-column166187_6ee10e-62 > .kt-inside-inner-col:before{border-top-left-radius:0px;border-top-right-radius:0px;border-bottom-right-radius:0px;border-bottom-left-radius:0px;}.kadence-column166187_6ee10e-62 > 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class=\"wp-image-166424\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_201623_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg 946w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_201623_Microsoft-365-Office-01-300x226.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_201623_Microsoft-365-Office-01-768x578.jpeg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 946px) 100vw, 946px\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_201729_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-square 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data-light-image=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_201750_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" data-id=\"166428\" class=\"wp-image-166428\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_201750_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg 1039w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_201750_Microsoft-365-Office-01-300x227.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_201750_Microsoft-365-Office-01-768x582.jpeg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1039px) 100vw, 1039px\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_201809_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" 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https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_201809_Microsoft-365-Office-01-768x615.jpeg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1044px) 100vw, 1044px\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_201832_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-square kb-has-image-ratio-square\" ><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1055\" height=\"833\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_201832_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_201832_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_201832_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" data-id=\"166432\" class=\"wp-image-166432\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_201832_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg 1055w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_201832_Microsoft-365-Office-01-300x237.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_201832_Microsoft-365-Office-01-768x606.jpeg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1055px) 100vw, 1055px\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_201909_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-square kb-has-image-ratio-square\" ><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1057\" height=\"825\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_201909_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_201909_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_201909_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" data-id=\"166434\" class=\"wp-image-166434\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_201909_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg 1057w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_201909_Microsoft-365-Office-01-300x234.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_201909_Microsoft-365-Office-01-768x599.jpeg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1057px) 100vw, 1057px\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_201924_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-square kb-has-image-ratio-square\" ><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1058\" height=\"837\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_201924_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_201924_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_201924_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" data-id=\"166436\" class=\"wp-image-166436\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_201924_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg 1058w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_201924_Microsoft-365-Office-01-300x237.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_201924_Microsoft-365-Office-01-768x608.jpeg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1058px) 100vw, 1058px\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_201948_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-square kb-has-image-ratio-square\" ><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1043\" height=\"834\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_201948_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_201948_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_201948_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" data-id=\"166438\" class=\"wp-image-166438\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_201948_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg 1043w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_201948_Microsoft-365-Office-01-300x240.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_201948_Microsoft-365-Office-01-768x614.jpeg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1043px) 100vw, 1043px\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202003_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-square kb-has-image-ratio-square\" ><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1068\" height=\"844\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202003_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202003_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202003_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" data-id=\"166440\" class=\"wp-image-166440\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202003_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg 1068w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202003_Microsoft-365-Office-01-300x237.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202003_Microsoft-365-Office-01-768x607.jpeg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1068px) 100vw, 1068px\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202019_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-square kb-has-image-ratio-square\" ><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1060\" height=\"835\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202019_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202019_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202019_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" data-id=\"166442\" class=\"wp-image-166442\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202019_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg 1060w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202019_Microsoft-365-Office-01-300x236.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202019_Microsoft-365-Office-01-768x605.jpeg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1060px) 100vw, 1060px\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202035_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-square kb-has-image-ratio-square\" ><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1031\" height=\"808\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202035_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202035_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202035_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" data-id=\"166444\" class=\"wp-image-166444\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202035_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg 1031w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202035_Microsoft-365-Office-01-300x235.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202035_Microsoft-365-Office-01-768x602.jpeg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1031px) 100vw, 1031px\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202045_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-square kb-has-image-ratio-square\" ><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1027\" height=\"825\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202045_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202045_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202045_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" data-id=\"166446\" class=\"wp-image-166446\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202045_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg 1027w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202045_Microsoft-365-Office-01-300x241.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202045_Microsoft-365-Office-01-768x617.jpeg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1027px) 100vw, 1027px\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202102_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-square kb-has-image-ratio-square\" ><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1080\" height=\"880\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202102_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202102_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202102_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" data-id=\"166448\" class=\"wp-image-166448\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202102_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg 1080w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202102_Microsoft-365-Office-01-300x244.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202102_Microsoft-365-Office-01-768x626.jpeg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><li class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item\"><div class=\"kadence-blocks-gallery-item-inner\"><figure class=\"kb-gallery-figure kb-gallery-item-has-link kadence-blocks-gallery-item-hide-caption\"><a href=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202120_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" class=\"kb-gallery-item-link\"><div class=\"kb-gal-image-radius\"><div class=\"kb-gallery-image-contain kadence-blocks-gallery-intrinsic kb-gallery-image-ratio-square kb-has-image-ratio-square\" ><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1066\" height=\"842\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202120_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" alt=\"\" data-full-image=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202120_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" data-light-image=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202120_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg\" data-id=\"166450\" class=\"wp-image-166450\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202120_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg 1066w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202120_Microsoft-365-Office-01-300x237.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240426_202120_Microsoft-365-Office-01-768x607.jpeg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1066px) 100vw, 1066px\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/figure><\/div><\/li><\/ul><\/div>\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_706e2a-68, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_706e2a-68[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_706e2a-68\"]{padding-top:0px;padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-xxs, 0.5rem);text-align:left;font-size:16px;font-weight:400;font-style:normal;font-family:'BODY Bold';text-transform:none;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_706e2a-68 mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_706e2a-68[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_706e2a-68\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_706e2a-68 img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_706e2a-68[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_706e2a-68\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_706e2a-68, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_706e2a-68[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_706e2a-68\"]{padding-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-xs, 1rem);font-size:15px;text-align:left!important;}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_706e2a-68, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_706e2a-68[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_706e2a-68\"]{font-size:14px;text-align:left!important;}}<\/style>\n<p class=\"kt-adv-heading166187_706e2a-68 wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_706e2a-68\">Izvor: Cocoual, M. (2014).<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_aa9065-06, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_aa9065-06[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_aa9065-06\"]{padding-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-xxs, 0.5rem);text-align:left;font-style:normal;text-transform:uppercase;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_aa9065-06 mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_aa9065-06[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_aa9065-06\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_aa9065-06 img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_aa9065-06[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_aa9065-06\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_aa9065-06, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_aa9065-06[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_aa9065-06\"]{text-align:left!important;}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_aa9065-06, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_aa9065-06[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_aa9065-06\"]{text-align:left!important;}}<\/style>\n<h3 class=\"kt-adv-heading166187_aa9065-06 wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_aa9065-06\">Georges Chiris (1872 &#8211; 1953) <\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Georges se aktivno se uklju\u010dio u upravljanje tvrtkom u 28. godini, godinu dana prije o\u010deve smrti 1900. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Chiris je vodio preko pola stolje\u0107a, do smrti 1953.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Na \u010delu s Georgesom, Chiris se promovirao izrekom da <em>&#8220;u Carstvu Chiris Sunce nikada ne zalazi.&#8221;<\/em><sup class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote \" data-mfn=\"11\" data-mfn-post-scope=\"00000000000018500000000000000000_166187\"><a href=\"javascript:void(0)\"  role=\"button\" aria-pressed=\"false\" aria-describedby=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-11\">11<\/a><\/sup><span id=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-11\" role=\"tooltip\" class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote__note\" tabindex=\"0\" data-mfn=\"11\">Cocoual, M. (2017), str. 273.<\/span>, ali i krenuo silaznom putanjom.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Poput svog pradjeda Anselma i strica Edmonda, Georges je bio predsjednik Trgova\u010dkog suda u Grasseu, a u razdoblju od 1907. do 1914. obavljao je i javnu funkciju generalnog savjetnika Saint-Aubana, koju je prethodno obavljao i njegov otac.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Vrijeme Georgesove uprave Chirisom poklopilo se s vrhuncem francuskog kolonijalnog imperija (1919.-1939.) pa Georges Chiris 1907. odustaje od  lokalnih funkcija kako bi postao \u010dlan Vrhovnog vije\u0107a za kolonije.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Francusko Vrhovno vije\u0107e za kolonije formalno je bilo savjetodavno tijelo, no zapravo su ga \u010dinili vlasnici krupnog privatnog kapitala, odnosno glavni akteri kolonijalnih pothvata. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Vije\u0107e je davalo preporuke o na\u010dinu iskori\u0161tavanja resursa u kolonijama, redistribuciji plodnih zemlji\u0161ta (izvla\u0161\u0107ivanju lokalnog stanovni\u0161tva i dodjeli francuskim kolonistima) te o politikama prema lokalnom stanovni\u0161tvu (uklju\u010duju\u0107i i prisilnu radnu obavezu te posebne poreze za stanovnike koji su odbijali raditi za francuske gazde).<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_7c4d55-3b, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_7c4d55-3b[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_7c4d55-3b\"]{padding-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-xxs, 0.5rem);text-align:left;font-style:normal;text-transform:none;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_7c4d55-3b mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_7c4d55-3b[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_7c4d55-3b\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_7c4d55-3b img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_7c4d55-3b[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_7c4d55-3b\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_7c4d55-3b, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_7c4d55-3b[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_7c4d55-3b\"]{text-align:left!important;}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_7c4d55-3b, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_7c4d55-3b[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_7c4d55-3b\"]{text-align:left!important;}}<\/style>\n<h4 class=\"kt-adv-heading166187_7c4d55-3b wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_7c4d55-3b\">Fran\u00e7ois&nbsp;Coty i Rose Jacqueminot (1904.)<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>Recentnija biografija Fran\u00e7oisa Cotyja, objavljena u suautorstvu s Cotyjevom unukom Elizabeth Coty i uz konzultaciju obiteljskog arhiva<sup class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote \" data-mfn=\"12\" data-mfn-post-scope=\"00000000000018500000000000000000_166187\"><a href=\"javascript:void(0)\"  role=\"button\" aria-pressed=\"false\" aria-describedby=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-12\">12<\/a><\/sup><span id=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-12\" role=\"tooltip\" class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote__note\" tabindex=\"0\" data-mfn=\"12\"> <strong>Toledano, R. B:, Coty, E. Z. (2009)<\/strong>, Fran\u00e7ois Coty: fragrance, power, money. <em>Pelican Publishing Company, 2009<\/em>. str. 55-60 <\/span>, opisuje poznanstvo i prijateljstvo Fran\u00e7oisa Cotyja s obitelji Chiris u tri najva\u017enije poslovne veze u njegovom \u017eivotu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Fran\u00e7ois Coty do\u0161ao je 1900. s Korzike u Pariz s namjerom da stekne ugled i bogatstvo u poslu koji je tek trebao odabrati, ali svjestan va\u017enosti uspostavljanja osobnih veza s ljudima koji su mo\u0107ni po naslije\u0111enoj ili ste\u010denoj poziciji i u\u010denja od talentiranih i uspje\u0161nih.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Na samom po\u010detku 20. stolje\u0107a, ime &#8220;L\u00e9on Chiris&#8221; bilo je simbol svega toga. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Fran\u00e7ois Coty imao je priliku poznati Leona Chirisa u Parizu te preko politi\u010dkih veza svoje ro\u0111akinje dobiti obe\u0107anje o mogu\u0107nosti u\u010denja kreacije mirisa pri Chirisu u Grasseu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Zahvaljuju\u0107i osobnom prijateljstvu s Fran\u00e7oisom Carnotom, sinom biv\u0161eg predsjednika Francuske, koji je bio o\u017eenjen za Valentine Chiris-Carnot, Leonovu stariju k\u0107i i Georgesovu sestru, Fran\u00e7ois Coty zapo\u010deo se dru\u017eiti i s nasljednikom dinastije Chiris.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Georges i Fran\u00e7ois Coty bili su gotovo vr\u0161njaci, a poznanstvo \u0107e se pretvoriti u osobno prijateljstvo koje \u0107e potrajati do kraja Cotyjevog \u017eivota te u poslovan odnos &#8211; u dobru i zlu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Coty je stigao u Grasse 1903. kako bi na licu mjesta ovladao zanatom kojim se odlu\u010dio baviti. Pri Chirisovim pogonima u Grasseu nau\u010dio je postupke proizvodnje, upoznavao materijale i u\u010dio konstrukciju kompozicija. U obiteljskoj knji\u017enici u\u010dio je o suvremenim tehnikama i povijesti parfumerstva u Grasseu, a od samog Georgesa o operativnom vo\u0111enju biznisa.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Za Fran\u00e7oisovog boravka u Grasseu, Georges je odlu\u010dio sponzorirati Cotyja, a na kraju boravka kod Chirisa u Grasseu Coty je imao know-how, formulu svog prvog parfema posve\u0107enog ru\u017ei i va\u017enu insajdersku informaciju:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Susjed Georgesa Chirisa, Albert Camilly,  tako\u0111er proizvo\u0111a\u010d mirisa i vlasnik Lallue, upravo je bankrotirao i spremao se rasprodati svoje zalihe po iznimno niskoj cijeni. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Fran\u00e7ois Coty je jeftino otkupio zalihe i dao proizvesti slavan <em>Rose Jacqueminot<\/em>, izdan 1904.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>U roku od dvije godine od izlaska Rose Jacqueminot, Coty \u0107e postati prvi francuski milijuna\u0161. Ostalo je &#8211; poznata povijest.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-image.kb-image166187_cf901d-72:not(.kb-specificity-added):not(.kb-extra-specificity-added){margin-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);margin-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-image kb-image166187_cf901d-72\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-medium_large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"619\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240430_105642_Chrome-01-768x619.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"kb-img wp-image-167037\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240430_105642_Chrome-01-768x619.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240430_105642_Chrome-01-300x242.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240430_105642_Chrome-01.jpeg 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption>Rose Jacqueminot, izvorno pakiranje, 1904. Izvor: <a href=\"https:\/\/cotyperfumes.blogspot.com\/2014\/01\/la-rose-jacqueminot-by-coty-c1904.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">cotyperfumes.blogspot.com<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_6498fa-c9, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_6498fa-c9[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_6498fa-c9\"]{padding-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-xxs, 0.5rem);text-align:left;font-style:normal;text-transform:none;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_6498fa-c9 mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_6498fa-c9[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_6498fa-c9\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_6498fa-c9 img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_6498fa-c9[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_6498fa-c9\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_6498fa-c9, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_6498fa-c9[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_6498fa-c9\"]{text-align:left!important;}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_6498fa-c9, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_6498fa-c9[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_6498fa-c9\"]{text-align:left!important;}}<\/style>\n<h4 class=\"kt-adv-heading166187_6498fa-c9 wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_6498fa-c9\">&#8220;Carstvo Chiris&#8221;<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>Uz Ruhre-Bertrand (danas Givaudan), Chiris je 1920-ih i 1930-ih bio globalno najja\u010di proizvo\u0111a\u010d mirisnih materijala na svijetu.<font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"> <\/font><\/font><\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-image.kb-image166187_c21127-dc:not(.kb-specificity-added):not(.kb-extra-specificity-added){margin-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);margin-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-image kb-image166187_c21127-dc\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"638\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Antoine_Chiris_in_the_world_-_btv1b84587181-1-1.jpg.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"kb-img wp-image-166294\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Antoine_Chiris_in_the_world_-_btv1b84587181-1-1.jpg.webp 1024w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Antoine_Chiris_in_the_world_-_btv1b84587181-1-1.jpg-300x187.webp 300w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Antoine_Chiris_in_the_world_-_btv1b84587181-1-1.jpg-768x479.webp 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption>Izvor: Biblioth\u00e8que nationale de France, d\u00e9partement Cartes et plans, GE D-8336, <a href=\"https:\/\/commons.wikimedia.org\/wiki\/File:Antoine_Chiris_in_the_world_-_btv1b84587181.jpg\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Wikipedia file<\/a>  (karta iz 1920-ih)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_60efd5-80, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_60efd5-80[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_60efd5-80\"]{padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-xxs, 0.5rem);text-align:left;font-style:normal;text-transform:none;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_60efd5-80 mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_60efd5-80[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_60efd5-80\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_60efd5-80 img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_60efd5-80[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_60efd5-80\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_60efd5-80, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_60efd5-80[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_60efd5-80\"]{text-align:left!important;}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_60efd5-80, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_60efd5-80[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_60efd5-80\"]{text-align:left!important;}}<\/style>\n<h5 class=\"kt-adv-heading166187_60efd5-80 wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_60efd5-80\">Europa<\/h5>\n\n\n\n<p>Chirisove agencije putem kojih se odvijala trgovina nalazile su se po cijeloj Europi: u Francuskoj (Marseilles, Bordeaux, Lyon), Italiji (Milano, Trst), Njema\u010dkoj (Hamburg), \u0160vicarskoj (Geneva), Austriji (Be\u010d), \u010ce\u0161koj (Prag), Poljskoj (Var\u0161ava) i Rumunjskoj (Bukure\u0161t), ali i na krajnjem sjeveru u \u0160vedskoj (Oslo) i Finskoj (Helsinki) i jugu, u \u0160panjolskoj (Lisabon, Barcelona), Gr\u010dkoj (Atena), Turskoj (Istanbul).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Putem Chirisovih skandinavskih agencija do Grassea su pristizali blokovi ambergrisa.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Italija<\/strong>  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Izme\u0111u 1900. i 1910. Georges Chiris kupio je tri imanja u Italiji:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Imanje u Pijemontu (Vigogne) uzgajalo je metvicu, hrastovu mahovinu, iris i bergamot. Prerada se odvijala u tvornici na licu mjesta, a Chiris je imao i tvornicu u Firenci.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Na jugu Italije je putem svoje tvrke Industrijske tvrtke Agricole M\u00e9ridionale, kupio imanja u Messini i Kalabriji, s kojih je eksploatirao citruse \u2013 limun, naran\u010du, bergamot i  mandarinu. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Proizvodnju na Siciliji vodilo je zasebno Chirisovo trgova\u010dko dru\u0161tvo, a tvornica na Siciliji tako\u0111er je prera\u0111ivala citruse.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Bugarska<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Tako\u0111er izme\u0111u 1900. i 1910. Chiris je pokrio potrebu za bugarskom ru\u017eom tako \u0161to je postao vlasnik imanja s tvornicom u Rahmanlaru, u Dolini ru\u017ea. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Francuska <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>U 1920-ima Chiris je okrupnio svoje posjede u Francuskoj, pridru\u017eiv\u0161i im 3 imanja na podru\u010dju Grasea i Cannesa:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Na <em>Domaine du Vignal <\/em>(52 ha) kraj Chateauneufa (Grasse) nasa\u0111ene su majska (rosa centifolia), bugarska i egipatska ru\u017ea. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>U prolje\u0107e 1922. kupio je <em>Domaine de l&#8217;Abadie<\/em> u Cannesu (42 ha) te na njemu uzgajao geranij, bosiljak, kamilicu, anis, korijander i verbenu, a zatim i <em>Domaine des Embrasques<\/em> (11 ha u neposrednoj blizini), na kojem uzgaja mentu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>U 1930-ima, unato\u010d posljedicama gospodarske krize (1929.) i velikom \u0161trajku (1936.), Chiris preuzima jo\u0161 dvije tvrtke iz Grassea, Compagnie d&#8217;Argeville Pierrea Dhumeza (1932.)&nbsp;i Pilar Fr\u00e8res (1938.).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Njema\u010dka<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Georges po\u010detkom 1920-ih postaje vlasnik i Domaine de Puberclaire, u Bases-Alpes na podru\u010dju Njema\u010dke. Od 335 ha, 115 je bilo obradivo i zasa\u0111eno lavandom i lavandinom.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-image.kb-image166187_762077-2a:not(.kb-specificity-added):not(.kb-extra-specificity-added){margin-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);margin-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-image kb-image166187_762077-2a\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1400\" height=\"1381\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/11452008-1400x1381.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"kb-img wp-image-166285\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/11452008-1400x1381.jpg 1400w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/11452008-300x296.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/11452008-768x758.jpg 768w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/11452008-scaled.jpg 1419w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\" \/><figcaption>Mazuyer, G. (1931), Les \u00c9tablissements Chiris dans le monde, Chiris, 1931. <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_f164fd-05, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_f164fd-05[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_f164fd-05\"]{padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-xxs, 0.5rem);text-align:left;font-style:normal;text-transform:none;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_f164fd-05 mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_f164fd-05[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_f164fd-05\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_f164fd-05 img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_f164fd-05[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_f164fd-05\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_f164fd-05, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_f164fd-05[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_f164fd-05\"]{text-align:left!important;}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_f164fd-05, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_f164fd-05[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_f164fd-05\"]{text-align:left!important;}}<\/style>\n<h5 class=\"kt-adv-heading166187_f164fd-05 wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_f164fd-05\">Sjeverna Afrika <\/h5>\n\n\n\n<p>Na podru\u010dju Sjeverne Afrike, uz ve\u0107 spomenutu tvornicu u Boufariku, Chiris je imao i tvornicu u Tunisu (Sousse) koja je prera\u0111ivala geranij, ru\u017eu i jasmin.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_505368-e9, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_505368-e9[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_505368-e9\"]{padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-xxs, 0.5rem);text-align:left;font-style:normal;text-transform:none;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_505368-e9 mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_505368-e9[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_505368-e9\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_505368-e9 img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_505368-e9[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_505368-e9\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_505368-e9, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_505368-e9[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_505368-e9\"]{text-align:left!important;}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_505368-e9, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_505368-e9[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_505368-e9\"]{text-align:left!important;}}<\/style>\n<h5 class=\"kt-adv-heading166187_505368-e9 wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_505368-e9\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">Azija <\/font><\/font><\/h5>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-image.kb-image166187_99d7db-ff:not(.kb-specificity-added):not(.kb-extra-specificity-added){margin-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);margin-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-image kb-image166187_99d7db-ff\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1400\" height=\"1366\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/11452010-1400x1366.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"kb-img wp-image-166289\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/11452010-1400x1366.jpg 1400w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/11452010-300x293.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/11452010-768x750.jpg 768w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/11452010-1536x1499.jpg 1435w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/11452010.jpg 1434w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\" \/><figcaption>Mazuyer, G. (1931)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Kina<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Francuska je&nbsp;1849. stvorila koloniju u&nbsp;\u0160angaju&nbsp;koja je trajala sve do&nbsp;1946, pa je Leon Chiris ve\u0107 1860-ih iskoristio \u0160angaj za po\u010detak \u0161irenja u unutra\u0161njost Kine, otkuda je nabavljao mo\u0161us.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Njegov sin Georges \u0107e u \u0160angaju 1920-ih osnovati Soci\u00e9t\u00e9 Fran\u00e7aise du Haut Yang-Tse, logisti\u010dku tvrtku koja se brinula za dopremu vre\u0107a s mo\u0161usom niz najdulju kinesku rijeku Jangtze. <br>Prikuplja\u010dki centri bili su smje\u0161teni u Ta-Tsien-Lou i Chung-Kingu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Chirisova karta iz 1931. prikazuje organizirani izlov mo\u0161usnih jelena, kakav  je do sredine 20. stolje\u0107a ovu vrstu doveo na rub do istrebljenja.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Indokina<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Za Leonova \u017eivota koloniziran je Vijetnam (Cohin-Chin, 1884., Tonkin i Anam, 1885.) i uspostavljen protektorat nad Kambod\u017eom (1884.). Ova podru\u010dja su pod francuskom kolonijalnom upravom objedinjena u Francusku Indokinu, kojoj je dodan Laos&nbsp;(1887.) i&nbsp;Kwang-Chou-Wan&nbsp;(1900.).<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-image.kb-image166187_8dbb2e-95:not(.kb-specificity-added):not(.kb-extra-specificity-added){margin-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);margin-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);}.kb-image166187_8dbb2e-95.kb-image-is-ratio-size, .kb-image166187_8dbb2e-95 .kb-image-is-ratio-size{max-width:500px;width:100%;}.wp-block-kadence-column > .kt-inside-inner-col > .kb-image166187_8dbb2e-95.kb-image-is-ratio-size, .wp-block-kadence-column > .kt-inside-inner-col > .kb-image166187_8dbb2e-95 .kb-image-is-ratio-size{align-self:unset;}.kb-image166187_8dbb2e-95 figure{max-width:500px;}.kb-image166187_8dbb2e-95 .image-is-svg, .kb-image166187_8dbb2e-95 .image-is-svg img{width:100%;}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-image kb-image166187_8dbb2e-95\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"891\" height=\"1394\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240501_220039_Drive-01.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"kb-img wp-image-167273\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240501_220039_Drive-01.jpeg 891w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240501_220039_Drive-01-192x300.jpeg 192w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240501_220039_Drive-01-768x1202.jpeg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 891px) 100vw, 891px\" \/><figcaption>Reklama iz Chirisovog \u010dasopisa <em>Les Parums de France<\/em> br. 51, svibanj 1927.<br>Izvor: Cocoual, M.&nbsp;(2017.), str. 351<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>U Vijetnamu je Chiris otvorio tvornice na sjeveru (Anam) i jugu Vijetnama (Tonikin): <br>Iz Anama je Chiris prete\u017eno crpio benzoin, a tvornice su bile smje\u0161tene u Lang Sonu i Xam-Neu. <br>Tvornica u ju\u017enoj regiji Tonkin prera\u0111ivala je uglavnom zvjezdasti anis, a bila je smje\u0161tena u lu\u010dkom gradu Haitphongu, prometnom sredi\u0161tu na delti Crvene rijeke.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_2f2308-e0, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_2f2308-e0[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_2f2308-e0\"]{padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-xxs, 0.5rem);text-align:left;font-style:normal;text-transform:none;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_2f2308-e0 mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_2f2308-e0[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_2f2308-e0\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_2f2308-e0 img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_2f2308-e0[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_2f2308-e0\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_2f2308-e0, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_2f2308-e0[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_2f2308-e0\"]{text-align:left!important;}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_2f2308-e0, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_2f2308-e0[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_2f2308-e0\"]{text-align:left!important;}}<\/style>\n<h5 class=\"kt-adv-heading166187_2f2308-e0 wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_2f2308-e0\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">Pacifik<\/font><\/font><\/h5>\n\n\n\n<p>Chirisova tvornica za preradu pa\u010dulija i limunske trave bila smje\u0161tena u Soerabayi na Javi (Indonezija).<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_543476-be, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_543476-be[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_543476-be\"]{padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-xxs, 0.5rem);text-align:left;font-style:normal;text-transform:none;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_543476-be mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_543476-be[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_543476-be\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_543476-be img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_543476-be[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_543476-be\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_543476-be, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_543476-be[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_543476-be\"]{text-align:left!important;}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_543476-be, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_543476-be[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_543476-be\"]{text-align:left!important;}}<\/style>\n<h5 class=\"kt-adv-heading166187_543476-be wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_543476-be\">Afrika <\/h5>\n\n\n\n<p>Kolonizacija u Africi i na otocima u indijskom oceanu bila je osobito brutalna, a Chirisova politika prema radnicima u kolonijama bila je upravo suprotna od one kakvu prezentirao na primjeru planta\u017ee Sainte-Marguerite u Al\u017eiru.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-image.kb-image166187_580cfa-d6:not(.kb-specificity-added):not(.kb-extra-specificity-added){margin-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);margin-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-image kb-image166187_580cfa-d6\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1400\" height=\"1381\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/11452012-1400x1381.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"kb-img wp-image-166287\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/11452012-1400x1381.jpg 1400w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/11452012-300x296.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/11452012-768x758.jpg 768w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/11452012.jpg 1419w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\" \/><figcaption>Mazuyer, G. (1931)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Subsaharska Afrika<\/strong> <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Chirisove tvornice bile su smje\u0161tene u Ouaki (Kongo, koloniziran 1880.) i na britanskom teritoriju Nyanze (danas Tanzanija).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>U La Ouaki su uzgajane uglavnom naran\u010de i limunska trava, a u Nyanzi geranium. <\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_d35629-17, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_d35629-17[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_d35629-17\"]{text-align:left;font-style:normal;text-transform:none;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_d35629-17 mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_d35629-17[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_d35629-17\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_d35629-17 img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_d35629-17[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_d35629-17\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_d35629-17[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_d35629-17\"] a, .kt-adv-heading-link166187_d35629-17, .kt-adv-heading-link166187_d35629-17 .kt-adv-heading166187_d35629-17[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_d35629-17\"]{color:var(--global-palette1, #3182CE);}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_d35629-17[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_d35629-17\"] a:hover, .kt-adv-heading-link166187_d35629-17:hover, .kt-adv-heading-link166187_d35629-17:hover .kt-adv-heading166187_d35629-17[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_d35629-17\"]{color:var(--global-palette1, #3182CE);}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_d35629-17, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_d35629-17[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_d35629-17\"]{text-align:left!important;}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_d35629-17, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_d35629-17[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_d35629-17\"]{text-align:left!important;}}<\/style>\n<p class=\"kt-adv-heading166187_d35629-17 wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_d35629-17\"><strong>Otoci u Indijskom oceanu<\/strong><sup class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote \" data-mfn=\"13\" data-mfn-post-scope=\"00000000000018500000000000000000_166187\"><a href=\"javascript:void(0)\"  role=\"button\" aria-pressed=\"false\" aria-describedby=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-13\">13<\/a><\/sup><span id=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-13\" role=\"tooltip\" class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote__note\" tabindex=\"0\" data-mfn=\"13\"><strong>Cocoual<\/strong>,<strong> M.<\/strong> <strong>(2016) <\/strong>De la Capitale des parfums aux \u00eeles aux parfums&nbsp;: les int\u00e9r\u00eats grassois \u00e0 Madagascar et d\u00e9pendances. <em>Cahiers de la M\u00e9diterran\u00e9e 92 | 2016. <\/em>&nbsp;URL: <a href=\"https:\/\/journals.openedition.org\/cdlm\/8369\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/journals.openedition.org\/cdlm\/8369<\/a>. <\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Za Leonovog \u017eivota, Chiris je imao tvornicu vanilije na Reunionu (Burbon), staroj francuskoj koloniji. Sjedi\u0161te kolonijalnog trgova\u010dkog dru\u0161tva za Reunion bilo je u Saint-Denisu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Prvi otok koji je u 19. stolje\u0107i stavljen pod francusku kolonijalnu upravu bio je Sainte-Marie (1821.), isto\u010dno od Madagaskara. Nosy B\u00e9 i Mayotte, koji \u0107e stolje\u0107e kasnije dobiti nadimak &#8220;parfemski otoci&#8221;, kolonizirani su 1841., a od 1866. Francuska \u0107e koloniziranim teritorijima pod vladom Mayottea pridru\u017eiti i otok Moh\u00e9li.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>No, &#8220;pacificiranje&#8221; Madagaskara nije i\u0161lo glatko: nakon prvog i neuspje\u0161nog poku\u0161aja (1883.), kolonizacija otoka provedena je tek 1896., pa se Chiris pro\u0161irio na Madagaskar tek za Georgesove uprave.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>S obzirom na kulture za proizvodnju mirisnih i aromatskih proizvoda koje su francuski kolonizatori uzgajali drugdje po svijetu, otoci u Indijskom oceanu su specifi\u010dni:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Dok su se u Europi, Ju\u017enoj Americi, Indokini i Kini, te u kontinentu Afrike uzgajale autohtone biljne vrste, niti ylang-ylang, niti vanilija, niti klin\u010di\u0107 koji su se pod francuskim kolonizatorima zapo\u010deli uzgajati na otocima u Indijskom ocanu nisu bili autohtoni, ve\u0107 su ih naselili upravo francuski kolonizatori.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ylang-ylang je izvorno rastao na Tajlandu, u Vijetnamu, na Filipinima, u Maleziji i Indoneziji, Novoj Gvineji i na Solomonskim otocima. Vanilija je izvorno rasla u Meksiku, a klin\u010di\u0107i u Indoneziji. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>La Compagnie des Indes je u drugoj polovini 18. stolje\u0107a organizirala prijenos na Reunion i eksperimentalni uzgoj neautohtinih kultura za kojima je postojala potreba, a koje su autohtono rasle samo na podru\u010djima izvan francuskog utjecaja. <br>Probni uzgoj vanilije i klin\u010di\u0107a je 1769. zapo\u010deo (uspje\u0161no) provoditi botani\u010dar <strong>Pierre Poivre<\/strong>, tada upravitelj Reuniona i Mauricijusa.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-image.kb-image166187_d1b4be-c4:not(.kb-specificity-added):not(.kb-extra-specificity-added){margin-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);margin-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);}.kb-image166187_d1b4be-c4.kb-image-is-ratio-size, .kb-image166187_d1b4be-c4 .kb-image-is-ratio-size{max-width:600px;width:100%;}.wp-block-kadence-column > .kt-inside-inner-col > .kb-image166187_d1b4be-c4.kb-image-is-ratio-size, .wp-block-kadence-column > .kt-inside-inner-col > .kb-image166187_d1b4be-c4 .kb-image-is-ratio-size{align-self:unset;}.kb-image166187_d1b4be-c4 figure{max-width:600px;}.kb-image166187_d1b4be-c4 .image-is-svg, .kb-image166187_d1b4be-c4 .image-is-svg img{width:100%;}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-image kb-image166187_d1b4be-c4\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"842\" height=\"1400\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240501_220254_Drive-01-842x1400.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"kb-img wp-image-167269\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240501_220254_Drive-01-842x1400.jpeg 842w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240501_220254_Drive-01-181x300.jpeg 181w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240501_220254_Drive-01-768x1276.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240501_220254_Drive-01.jpeg 896w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 842px) 100vw, 842px\" \/><figcaption>Reklama iz Chirisovog \u010dasopisa Les Parums de France br. 42, kolovoz 1926.<br>Izvor: Cocoual, M.&nbsp;(2017.), str. 276.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Razvoj poljoprivrede u kolonijama bio logi\u010dan nastavak francuskih vojnih operacija, a biv\u0161i vojnici-planta\u017eeri bili su prvi kamen poljoprivredne preobrazbe otoka u Indijskom oceanu. <br>Tijekom 20. stolje\u0107a, poljoprivreda je na otocima u Indijskom oceanu postala dominantan sektor, a uzgoj mirisnih kultura bio je jedan od najisplativijih i najmanje zahtjevnih.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nakon \u0161to je Madagaskar &#8220;pacificiran&#8221;, Francuska je ponovila eksperiment proveden na Reunionu:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Budu\u0107i da je raznolikost klime nudila \u0161iroke mogu\u0107nosti uzgoja, na Madagaskar sti\u017eu botani\u010dari i agronomi pari\u0161kog Prirodoslovnog muzeja kako bi popisali biljke na otoku i procijenili potencijal madagaskarskog tla, poznato plodnog zbog vulkanskih aktivnosti.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Francuska je potom na Madagaskaru nastavila ekperiment uzgoja razli\u010ditih kultura za kojima je rasla svjetska potra\u017enja, a izme\u0111u njima i aromatskim biljkama:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Prvo dokumentirano uvo\u0111enje parfemskih biljaka na teritorij Madagaskara bilo je 1901., kada je u pokusnom vrtu Toamasine (Tamatave) na isto\u010dnoj obali Madagaskara testiran uzgoj ylang-ylanga, vanilije, klin\u010di\u0107a i cimeta.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nakon toga, klin\u010di\u0107i su se uglavnom uzgajali u Sainte Marie, ylang-ylang je na Komonrima, Nosy-B\u00e9u i Sambiranu, a vanilija, klin\u010di\u0107, cimet, vetiver i na isto\u010dnoj obali Madagaskara.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Izme\u0111u 1905. i 1906. uspjeh je doveo do organizacije rasadnika i prvih planta\u017ea na sjeveru Madagaskara. Na otocima Nosy B\u00e9 i Nosy Komba tako\u0111er su podignute prve poluindustrijske planta\u017ee ylang-ylanga.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>U 1907. Chiris registrira Kolonijalno dru\u0161tvo Bambao (Soci\u00e9t\u00e9 Coloniale Bambao) i kre\u0107e uzgajati sve spomenute kulture. Pod kapom tog trgova\u010dkog dru\u0161tva su bili svi proizvodni centri na otocima Nosy B\u00e9 i Mayotte u Komorima.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Dok je na po\u010detku stolje\u0107a godi\u0161nja proizvodnja ylang-ylanga bila jednaka nuli, s Madagaskara je 1930. izvezeno 502, a 1937. 803 tone ylang-ylanga. Proizvodnja mahuna vanilije se s 655 tona 1930 ve\u0107 1932. uve\u0107ala za tre\u0107inu, na 866 tona. Izvoz klin\u010di\u0107a porastao je s 34 tone 1901. na 520 tona 1939., unato\u010d berbi koja se obavljala samo svake tri godine. Dodatno, ulje klin\u010di\u0107a, \u010diji je izvoz do 1923. bio gotovo nula, dosegnuo je 1939. 307 tona.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Do sredine 1930-ih Chirisova kolonijalna dru\u0161tva s podru\u010dja otoka u Indijskom oceanu proizvodit \u0107e 60% svjetske proizvodnje ylang ylanga.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Zbog problema dostupnosti radne snage, obrazovanje mladih Madagaskara uglavnom je usmjereno prema poljoprivredi: od osnovne \u0161kole, u\u010denici su morali odr\u017eavati vrt sastavljen od industrijskih usjeva i tropskih usjeva te samo desetine prehrambenih usjeva. U proizvodnim regijama osnovale su se vi\u0161e poljoprivredne \u0161kole, a uzgoj biljaka iz kojih su se proizvodile parfemske sirovine bio je sastavni dio prve godine obrazovanja. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Rad na planta\u017eama na Madagaskaru i Komorima tra\u017eio je veliki broj radnika:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ve\u0107 1896. je dekretom nametnuta radna obaveza svim mu\u0161karcima od 16 do 60 godina, a stanovni\u0161tvu je ograni\u010deno kretanje, uz zabranu napu\u0161tanja podru\u010dja pod upravom novih gazda.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Stanovnici su rekvirirani dragovoljno ili silom, a uveden je i porez koji su bili du\u017eni pla\u0107ati svi stanovnici koji su odbili raditi za nove vlasnike planta\u017ea.<br>Chiris je na Komorima kovao i svoju valutu za pla\u0107anje tog poreza.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Zatvor, novi koncept za stanovnike Komora, uglavnom je naseljen Komorcima koji nisu mogli pla\u0107ati porez, pa su oni svoj dug na kraju opet otpla\u0107ivali radom na planta\u017eama.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nedostatak radne nadokna\u0111ivao se dopremom radnika iz Afrike.<br>Tijekom \u017eetvi upravitelji planta\u017ea anga\u017eirali su zatvorenike te \u017eene i djecu. \u017dene su bile pla\u0107ene manje od mu\u0161karaca i ra\u010dunale se s djecom. U slu\u010daju manjka radne snage, \u0161kolski praznici su se pomicali kako bi jeftina radna snaga bila \u0161to dostupnija.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Kolonijalne planta\u017ee bile su poluindustrijske, a sastojale su se od upravne zgrade, objekata za preradu sirovina (kakaovca, kave, vanilije, prerada aromatskih biljaka) i koliba za smje\u0161taj osoblja koje je upravljalo planta\u017eom. Nova madagaskarska sela fizi\u010dke radne snage bila su podizana nekoliko kilometara dalje od uprave i tvornica. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Soci\u00e9t\u00e9 Coloniale Bambao Georgesa Chirisa bio je sna\u017eno kritiziran zbog svojih postupaka prema lokalnom stanovni\u0161tvu. Ve\u0107 1920-ih dolazi do ja\u010deg otpora i u\u010destalijih bjegova s planta\u017ea, te pojave samostalnih malih poljoprivrednika, koji se zapo\u010dinju udru\u017eivati. <br>Prve udruge za ljudska prava ve\u0107 su 1936. godine napale Chirisova kolonijalna dru\u0161tva na otocima u Indijskom oceanu zbog te\u0161kih uvjeta na planta\u017eama.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>No, 1931., prilikom otvaranja Me\u0111unarodne kolonijalne izlo\u017ebe u Parizu, kojom je Francuska konkurirala istovrsnoj britanskoj izlo\u017ebi u Londonu, upravo je Georges Chiris bio delegiran da u ime Vrhovnog vije\u0107a za kolonije po\u017eeli dobrodo\u0161licu \u0161efovima afri\u010dkih dr\u017eava.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_98773d-c3, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_98773d-c3[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_98773d-c3\"]{padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-xxs, 0.5rem);text-align:left;font-style:normal;text-transform:none;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_98773d-c3 mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_98773d-c3[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_98773d-c3\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_98773d-c3 img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_98773d-c3[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_98773d-c3\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_98773d-c3, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_98773d-c3[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_98773d-c3\"]{text-align:left!important;}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_98773d-c3, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_98773d-c3[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_98773d-c3\"]{text-align:left!important;}}<\/style>\n<h5 class=\"kt-adv-heading166187_98773d-c3 wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_98773d-c3\">Amerika<\/h5>\n\n\n\n<p>Na podru\u010dju Sjeverne Amerike Chiris je otvorio agencije u Montrealu (Kanada), New Yorku i Chicagu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>SAD<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Chiris je nastupio na tr\u017ei\u0161tu Sjedinjenih Ameri\u010dkiih Dr\u017eavama u 1890-im godinama. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Osnivanje Antoine Chiris Company u New Yorku bila je jedna od posljednjih velikih operacija Leona Chirisa, a operativno su ju proveli Georges Chiris i ro\u0111ak Georges Vallois, desna ruka vlasnika Chirisa.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-image.kb-image166187_760738-e9:not(.kb-specificity-added):not(.kb-extra-specificity-added){margin-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);margin-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-image kb-image166187_760738-e9\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1400\" height=\"1390\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/11452014-1400x1390.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"kb-img wp-image-166281\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/11452014-1400x1390.jpg 1400w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/11452014-300x298.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/11452014-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/11452014-768x763.jpg 768w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/11452014.jpg 1410w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\" \/><figcaption>Les \u00c9tablissements Chiris dans le monde, Chiris, 1931.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Srednja i Ju\u017ena Amerika<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>U Ju\u017enoj Americi Chiris je imao tvornice u Gvajani (Cayenne) i Paragvaju (Asuncion) te na Tahitiju.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Chiris je u Gvajani eksploatirao palisander (bois se rose), a \u010detiri koncesije obuhva\u0107ale su sveukupno 1.650 hektara gvajanskih \u0161uma. Palisander se destilirao na licu mjesta, a Chiris je, uz veliki broj radnika, zapo\u0161ljavao i zatvorenike.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-image.kb-image166187_783268-a8:not(.kb-specificity-added):not(.kb-extra-specificity-added){margin-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);margin-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-image kb-image166187_783268-a8\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1080\" height=\"804\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240501_215958_Drive-01.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"kb-img wp-image-167271\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240501_215958_Drive-01.jpeg 1080w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240501_215958_Drive-01-300x223.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240501_215958_Drive-01-768x572.jpeg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\" \/><figcaption>Reklama iz Chirisovog \u010dasopisa Les Parums de France br. 38, kolovoz 1926.<br>Izvor: Cocoual, M.&nbsp;(2017.), str. 351<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Nakon \u0161to je u 1930-ima palisander u Gvajani doveden do ruba nestanka, Chiris nije obnovio koncesije. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Na planta\u017eama u Paragvaju uzgajale su se naran\u010de, a na Tahitiju vanilija.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_e7e023-74, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_e7e023-74[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_e7e023-74\"]{padding-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-xxs, 0.5rem);text-align:left;font-style:normal;text-transform:none;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_e7e023-74 mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_e7e023-74[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_e7e023-74\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_e7e023-74 img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_e7e023-74[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_e7e023-74\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_e7e023-74, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_e7e023-74[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_e7e023-74\"]{text-align:left!important;}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_e7e023-74, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_e7e023-74[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_e7e023-74\"]{text-align:left!important;}}<\/style>\n<h4 class=\"kt-adv-heading166187_e7e023-74 wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_e7e023-74\">Put prema dolje<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>Pred Prvi svjetski rat, 1914., francusko kolonijalno osvajanje bilo je zavr\u0161eno, a bila je gotova i kriti\u010dna transformacija obrtni\u010dke u industrijsku proizvodnju, na kojoj Chiris profitirao u proteklih 100 godina.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ve\u0107 pred kraj 19. stolje\u0107a kemijskom sintezom stvoreno je nekoliko mirisnih materijala. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Prvi koji su u\u0161li u palete parfumera bili su: vanillin&nbsp;(1874.), \u010dija je proizvodnja vrlo brzo postala profitabilna, coumarin&nbsp;(1876.), klju\u010dan za stvaranje \u010ditave parfemske grupe (fougere), nitro muskovi&nbsp;(1888.), iononi i metil-iononi (1893.) koji su omogu\u0107avali kreiranje mirisa popularne ljubi\u010dice.<sup class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote \" data-mfn=\"14\" data-mfn-post-scope=\"00000000000018500000000000000000_166187\"><a href=\"javascript:void(0)\"  role=\"button\" aria-pressed=\"false\" aria-describedby=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-14\">14<\/a><\/sup><span id=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-14\" role=\"tooltip\" class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote__note\" tabindex=\"0\" data-mfn=\"14\"><strong>David, O.R.P., Doro, F. (2023)<\/strong>. Industrial Fragrance Chemistry: A Brief Historical Perspective. <em>European Journal of Organic Chemistry<\/em>, vol.26\/44, 2023. URL: <a href=\"https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1002\/ejoc.202300900\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1002\/ejoc.202300900<\/a>  <\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Iako su sintetizirani materijali isprva bili skupi, razvojem proizvodnje cijena im je brzo krenula drasti\u010dno padati, \u0161to je dovelo do njihovog uklju\u010divanja ne samo u mirise namijenjene parfemima, ve\u0107 i u mirise za proizvodnju druge, jeftinije kozmetike.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Unutar 11 godina (1876\/1887) cijena vanilina pala je za preko 90% (8750 \/ 875 fr\/kg). U godini kada Georges preuzima vo\u0111enje Chirisa (1900.), iznosila je manje od 115 fr\/kg, a trend se nastavio.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-image.kb-image166187_8ef981-41:not(.kb-specificity-added):not(.kb-extra-specificity-added){margin-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);margin-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);}.kb-image166187_8ef981-41.kb-image-is-ratio-size, .kb-image166187_8ef981-41 .kb-image-is-ratio-size{max-width:600px;width:100%;}.wp-block-kadence-column > .kt-inside-inner-col > .kb-image166187_8ef981-41.kb-image-is-ratio-size, .wp-block-kadence-column > .kt-inside-inner-col > .kb-image166187_8ef981-41 .kb-image-is-ratio-size{align-self:unset;}.kb-image166187_8ef981-41 figure{max-width:600px;}.kb-image166187_8ef981-41 .image-is-svg, .kb-image166187_8ef981-41 .image-is-svg img{width:100%;}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-image kb-image166187_8ef981-41\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"854\" height=\"1400\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240429_010420_Microsoft-365-Office-01-854x1400.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"kb-img wp-image-166875\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240429_010420_Microsoft-365-Office-01-854x1400.jpeg 854w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240429_010420_Microsoft-365-Office-01-183x300.jpeg 183w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240429_010420_Microsoft-365-Office-01-768x1258.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240429_010420_Microsoft-365-Office-01.jpeg 896w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 854px) 100vw, 854px\" \/><figcaption>Grafi\u010dki prikaz pada cijene vanilina. Charabot, E. (1900.), str. 233<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Za razliku od oca Leona i pradjeda Anselma, George Chiris nije prepoznao klju\u010dan trenutak koji je definirao kasniju povijest cjelokupne parfemske industrije. Chiris je po prvi puta u svojoj povijesti donio strate\u0161ku odluku da ne ide u korak s tehnolo\u0161kim napretkom, a ta je odluka bila &#8211; kriva i skupa.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Chiris je pod Georgesom, od 1922. do 1938. izdavao poslovno-stru\u010dni \u010dasopis <em>La Parfumerie du Sud-Est<\/em>&nbsp;, koji je 1924. preimenovan u&nbsp;<em>Les Parfums de France<\/em>. \u010casopis je izlazio dvomjese\u010dno, a uz znanstvena otkri\u0107a i teme od interesa struke promicao je prirodne sirovine.<sup class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote \" data-mfn=\"15\" data-mfn-post-scope=\"00000000000018500000000000000000_166187\"><a href=\"javascript:void(0)\"  role=\"button\" aria-pressed=\"false\" aria-describedby=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-15\">15<\/a><\/sup><span id=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-15\" role=\"tooltip\" class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote__note\" tabindex=\"0\" data-mfn=\"15\">Cocoual, M. (2016.), La famille Chiris&#8230;, t\u010d. 22. i Perrin, E., Baumann,&nbsp;M., Buttner, O. (2016)<\/span>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>S druge strane, monografija Imanja Sainte-Marguerite u Boufariku, napisana 1960-ih, sadr\u017ei i zna\u010dajnu opasku o prvoj polovini 1920-ih, kada je Georges zapo\u010deo izdavati Chirisovu publikaciju:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>&#8220;Njema\u010dka kemijska industrija je kroz sinteti\u010dke parfeme zadala udarac prirodnim parfemima. Smanjene su povr\u0161ine geranija, ru\u017ea je uklonjena, od osnovnih esencija ostao je samo neroli&#8221;.<\/em><sup class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote \" data-mfn=\"16\" data-mfn-post-scope=\"00000000000018500000000000000000_166187\"><a href=\"javascript:void(0)\"  role=\"button\" aria-pressed=\"false\" aria-describedby=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-16\">16<\/a><\/sup><span id=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-16\" role=\"tooltip\" class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote__note\" tabindex=\"0\" data-mfn=\"16\">Demassieux, N. (2022.) Citat zapisa A. Yvorre.<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Parfemi, dotad rezervirani za elitu, postaju sve popularniji, paleta jeftine kozmetike se tako\u0111er \u0161iri. Ja\u010daju\u0107i, industrija se usmjerila na masovnu proizvodnju i pojeftinjenje, a to su omogu\u0107avali jedino &#8211; sintetski materijali.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Dok su postoje\u0107i industrijski igra\u010di zauzimali nove startne pozicije s obzirom na pojavu sintetskih materijala, Georges je ignorirao i klju\u010dan trend u biznisu kojim je Chiris suvereno vladao gotovo stotinu godina i sve evidentnje turbulencije me\u0111u svjetskim silama.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Sve to uo\u010di dva svjetska rata i gubitka klju\u010dnih kolonija u kojima se odvijao Chirisov uzgoj i prerada.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_9558ce-51, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_9558ce-51[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_9558ce-51\"]{padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-xxs, 0.5rem);text-align:left;font-style:normal;text-transform:none;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_9558ce-51 mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_9558ce-51[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_9558ce-51\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_9558ce-51 img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_9558ce-51[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_9558ce-51\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_9558ce-51, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_9558ce-51[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_9558ce-51\"]{text-align:left!important;}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_9558ce-51, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_9558ce-51[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_9558ce-51\"]{text-align:left!important;}}<\/style>\n<h5 class=\"kt-adv-heading166187_9558ce-51 wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_9558ce-51\">Prvi veliki udarac <\/h5>\n\n\n\n<p>Prvi svjetski rat (1914-1918) samo je privremeno usporio poslovanje proizvo\u0111a\u010da iz Grassea. Podr\u017eavaju\u0107i vojne napore, Chiris je u svojim francuskim tvornicama proizvodio barut i borbene plinove.<sup class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote \" data-mfn=\"17\" data-mfn-post-scope=\"00000000000018500000000000000000_166187\"><a href=\"javascript:void(0)\"  role=\"button\" aria-pressed=\"false\" aria-describedby=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-17\">17<\/a><\/sup><span id=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-17\" role=\"tooltip\" class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote__note\" tabindex=\"0\" data-mfn=\"17\">Perrin, E., Baumann, M., Buttner, O. (2016) t\u010d. 26<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>No, te\u017eak udarac Chirisu zadala je 1917. Oktobarska revolucija, nakon koje je nacionalizirana sva Chirisova imovina u Rusiji, uklju\u010duju\u0107i i moskovski Rallet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ovime je Chiris ostao i bez ruskog tr\u017ei\u0161ta, glavne baze za trgovinu s Bliskim istokom i Orijentom tijekom 70 godina.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Dok Ernest Beaux jo\u0161 slu\u017ei vojsku, Ralletovi parfumeri bje\u017ee u Francusku, a prihva\u0107a ih Chiris u svoje tvornice. Iste godine, u Francuskoj \u0107e biti osnovano francusko dru\u0161tvo Rallet, a baza \u0107e mu biti Chirisova tvornica u La Bocci (Cannes). <\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-image.kb-image166187_932d5f-a9:not(.kb-specificity-added):not(.kb-extra-specificity-added){margin-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);margin-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-image kb-image166187_932d5f-a9\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"900\" height=\"590\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/10fi812.jpg_img.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"kb-img wp-image-166798\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/10fi812.jpg_img.jpg 900w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/10fi812.jpg_img-300x197.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/10fi812.jpg_img-768x503.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 900px) 100vw, 900px\" \/><figcaption>Razglednica, 1930-e.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">Rallet je ostao u Chirisovom vlasni\u0161tvu do 1926., kada ga Georges Chiris prodaje dugogodi\u0161njem prijatelju i klijentu, Fran\u00e7oisu Cotyju, koji je i sam ulagao u Rallet prilikom \u0161irenja u Rusiju te bio pogo\u0111en ruskom nacionalizacijom.<\/font><\/font><\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_f68cb3-92, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_f68cb3-92[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_f68cb3-92\"]{padding-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-xxs, 0.5rem);margin-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);text-align:left;font-style:normal;text-transform:none;border-bottom:1px solid var(--global-palette3, #1A202C);}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_f68cb3-92 mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_f68cb3-92[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_f68cb3-92\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_f68cb3-92 img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_f68cb3-92[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_f68cb3-92\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_f68cb3-92, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_f68cb3-92[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_f68cb3-92\"]{text-align:left!important;border-bottom:1px solid var(--global-palette3, #1A202C);}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_f68cb3-92, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_f68cb3-92[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_f68cb3-92\"]{text-align:left!important;border-bottom:1px solid var(--global-palette3, #1A202C);}}<\/style>\n<h2 class=\"kt-adv-heading166187_f68cb3-92 wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_f68cb3-92\">3. Propast kompanije (1939. &#8211; 1967.)<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>U razdoblju od 1939. pa do 1967. Chiris je postupno propadao. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Pad tvrtke zapo\u010deo je s drugim svjetskim ratom, a nastavio se gubitkom posjeda u kolonijama, a pridonio mu je izostanak daljnje modernizacije Chirosovih industrijskih pogona te usmjerenost samo na proizvodnju prirodnih materijala.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_a81dfc-ce, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_a81dfc-ce[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_a81dfc-ce\"]{padding-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-xxs, 0.5rem);text-align:left;font-style:normal;text-transform:none;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_a81dfc-ce mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_a81dfc-ce[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_a81dfc-ce\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_a81dfc-ce img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_a81dfc-ce[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_a81dfc-ce\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_a81dfc-ce, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_a81dfc-ce[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_a81dfc-ce\"]{text-align:left!important;}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_a81dfc-ce, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_a81dfc-ce[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_a81dfc-ce\"]{text-align:left!important;}}<\/style>\n<h4 class=\"kt-adv-heading166187_a81dfc-ce wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_a81dfc-ce\">Drugi svjetski rat<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>U kolovozu 1937. Japan je napao Kinu, a prvi je na udaru bio \u0160angaj, gdje je Chiris od 1920-ih poslovao putem Soci\u00e9t\u00e9 Fran\u00e7aise du Haut Yang-Tse. Opskrba mo\u0161usom iz unutra\u0161njosti Kine je prekinuta.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>S po\u010detkom Drugog svjetskog rata 1939. tvrtke iz Grassea odsje\u010dene su i od svojih me\u0111unarodnih klijenata, britanskih, ameri\u010dkih i europskih tvrtki, i od kolonijalnih centara u kojima se odvija zna\u010dajan dio njihove proizvodnje.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Sve se kre\u0107e usporeno: proizvo\u0111a\u010di \u017eive od \u017eetve na svome tlu i doma\u0107ih sirovina i oslanjaju se na zalihe iz ostatka svijeta.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Francuska je napadnuta je u prolje\u0107e 1940., a zatim i podijeljena na okupirani i slobodni dio. Do studenoga 1942. Grasse i cijela regija bili su u slobodnoj zoni. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ve\u0107 u kolovozu 1940. Japan je, u dogovoru s vladom u Vichyju, okupirao Indokinu, u kojoj su se nalazili Chirisovi posjedi i tvornice.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Po okupaciji Grassea, Nijemci su uveli radnu obavezu, a Georges Chiris bio je prisiljen raditi za okupatora. Njegov 30-godi\u0161nji sin i budu\u0107i nasljednik Chirisa, L\u00e9on-Antoine, odlazi iz Grassea i stavlja se u slu\u017ebu saveznika.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nakon \u010detiri godine Drugog svjetskog globalno tr\u017ei\u0161te se drasti\u010dno promijenilo. Proizvo\u0111a\u010di iz Grassea dobili su sna\u017enu konkurenciju:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Zahvaljuju\u0107i proizvodnji sintetskih materijala, tvrtke poput nizozemskog Chuit&amp;Naefa (danas Firmenicha) i Nardeena (inkorporiranog u dana\u0161nji Givaudan) te \u0161vicarskog Givaudana uspjele su zadovoljiti potra\u017enju tijekom rata i do\u010dekale su spremne procvat poslijeratne masovne potro\u0161nje.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Zahvaljuju\u0107i sintetskim materijalima, razvija se proizvodnja umjetnih aroma za prehrambene, farmaceutske i druge proizvode, odnosno \u010ditav novi sektor industrije, koji u drugoj polovini 20. stolje\u0107a bilje\u017ei eksponencijalan rast.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>S druge strane, industrija mirisa u Grasseu je po zavr\u0161etku rata bila istom stanju kao i prije rata.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Suo\u010deni s me\u0111unarodnom konkurencijom, proizvo\u0111a\u010di iz Grassea odlu\u010dili su promovirati svoje tradicionalno znanje i nastaviti poslovati u skladu s istim vrijednostima: kvalitetom i prirodno\u0161\u0107u. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Umjesto modernizacije, svim proizvo\u0111a\u010dima prioritet je bila obnova zaliha i nastavak trgovine. <br>K tome, u Grasseu je i dalje prevladavao na\u010din razmi\u0161ljanja da je najva\u017enija konkurencija ona kod ku\u0107e, iako je tr\u017ei\u0161no natjecanje postalo me\u0111unarodno.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Smjer za koji se odlu\u010dila ve\u0107ina proizvo\u0111a\u010da iz Grassea, uklju\u010duju\u0107i i Chiris, djelomi\u010dno su predodredile i ograni\u010dene mogu\u0107nosti:<br>Promjena je zahtijevala velika ulaganja u najmodernije istra\u017eiva\u010dke laboratorije, pdnosno kapital, kojeg proizvo\u0111a\u010di iz Grassea nisu imali, ili ga nije bilo dovoljno.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Odluka Georgesa Chirisa da \u0107e zadr\u017eati i oja\u010dati povla\u0161tenu poziciju vode\u0107eg proizvo\u0111a\u010da prirodnih proizvoda polazila je i od posve krive premise da \u0107e Francuska i nakon rata zadr\u017eati svoje kolonijalne teritorije.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_54e18e-db, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_54e18e-db[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_54e18e-db\"]{padding-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-xxs, 0.5rem);text-align:left;font-style:normal;text-transform:none;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_54e18e-db mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_54e18e-db[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_54e18e-db\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_54e18e-db img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_54e18e-db[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_54e18e-db\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_54e18e-db, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_54e18e-db[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_54e18e-db\"]{text-align:left!important;}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_54e18e-db, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_54e18e-db[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_54e18e-db\"]{text-align:left!important;}}<\/style>\n<h4 class=\"kt-adv-heading166187_54e18e-db wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_54e18e-db\">Dekolonizacija <\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>U 1950-ima, Azijom i Afrikom zakotrljao se proces dekolonizacije. Ratovi za neovisnost nizali su se jedan za drugim i svi su bili te\u0161ki udarci za industriju Grassea.<br>U petnaestak godina koje su uslijedile nakon rata, Chiris je izgubio indokineske, madagaskarske, kongoanske i al\u017eirske proizvo\u0111a\u010de:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ve\u0107 1949. Mao Tse Tung preuzeo je vlast u Kini. <br>Izvoz mo\u0161usa je okon\u010dan, a Chiris gubi posjede u \u0160angaju i unutra\u0161njosti Kine. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Godine 1954. Francuska je izgubila Indokinu: Kraljevina Kambod\u017ea, francuski protektorat, proglasila je svoju neovisnost 1953., a Laos je postao je neovisan sljede\u0107e godine pa Chiris i tamo giubi utjercaj, ali i imovinu. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>1946. Reunion postaje samostalna administrativna regija i francuski prekomorski departman, a ve\u0107 1947.na Madagaskaru izbija pobuna protiv francuskih vlasti, koja je krvavo ugu\u0161ena. No, Madagaskar je 1956. dobio \u0161iroku samoupravu, a 1960. i neovisnost. <br>U valu dekolonijalizacije na afri\u010dkom kontinentu i Kongo, u kojem je Chiris imao planta\u017ee i centre za preradu, 1960. stje\u010de neovisnost. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Iste godine zapo\u010deo je Al\u017eirski rat, koji \u0107e 1960. dovesti do neovisnosti Al\u017eira.<br>Georges Chiris se ve\u0107 1948. okre\u0107e se francuskom protektoratu &#8211; Kraljevini Maroko i gradi novu tvornicu za ekstrakciju ru\u017ee u dolini Dad\u00e8s. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Kraj svog \u017eivota Georges Chiris je proveo je u rasko\u0161noj vili u Marake\u0161u, gdje je i 1953. umro, nakon 53 godine upravljanja Chirisom. <br>Tri godine nakon njegove smrti, i Marko je stekao punu samostalnost.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_12f195-83, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_12f195-83[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_12f195-83\"]{padding-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-xxs, 0.5rem);text-align:left;font-style:normal;text-transform:none;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_12f195-83 mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_12f195-83[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_12f195-83\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_12f195-83 img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_12f195-83[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_12f195-83\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_12f195-83, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_12f195-83[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_12f195-83\"]{text-align:left!important;}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_12f195-83, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_12f195-83[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_12f195-83\"]{text-align:left!important;}}<\/style>\n<h2 class=\"kt-adv-heading166187_12f195-83 wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_12f195-83\">LEON-ANTOINE DE CHIRIS (1902. &#8211; ?)<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Leon-Antoine, Georgesov sin, do\u0161ao je na \u010delo Chirisa u 52. godini, znatno kasnije od svog oca, djeda i pradjeada.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Po zavr\u0161etku Drugog svjetskog rata, Leon-Antoine prete\u017eno je \u017eivio u izvan Grassea, putuju\u0107i i \u0161ire\u0107i Chirisove kapacitete nasadima pa\u010dulija u Indiji i Brazilu, a otvorio je i tvornicu za preradu u Argentini. <br>\u017divio je luksuzno i po\u010deo upotrebljavati stariji oblik prezimena \u201cde Chiris\u201d, a stanovnici Grassea pamte njegov Rolls Royce Silver Cloud.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>U to vrijeme Chirisov na\u010din poslovanja ve\u0107 je bio zastario u svim segmentima: od na\u010dina preuzimanja narud\u017ebi i vo\u0111enja ra\u010dunovodstva, preko upravljanja zalihama do pogona za proizvodnju.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nakon o\u010deve smrti, Leon- Antoine morao je bitno smanjiti luksuzni na\u010din \u017eivota.<br>U prvih deset godina njegovog vo\u0111enja tvrtke suo\u010dio se s gubitkom posjeda u gotovo svim biv\u0161im francuskim kolonijama. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Kona\u010dni udarac Chirisu zadao je neuspjeh s uzgojem pa\u010dulija na planta\u017eama u Brazilu i gubitak tvornice u Boufariku, koju su Al\u017eirske vlasti nacionalizirale 1963.  <\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_e881d8-51, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_e881d8-51[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_e881d8-51\"]{padding-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-xxs, 0.5rem);text-align:left;font-style:normal;text-transform:none;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_e881d8-51 mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_e881d8-51[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_e881d8-51\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_e881d8-51 img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_e881d8-51[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_e881d8-51\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_e881d8-51, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_e881d8-51[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_e881d8-51\"]{text-align:left!important;}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_e881d8-51, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_e881d8-51[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_e881d8-51\"]{text-align:left!important;}}<\/style>\n<h4 class=\"kt-adv-heading166187_e881d8-51 wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_e881d8-51\">Prodaja tvrtke<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>Pedesete godine 20. stolje\u0107a obilje\u017eene su porastom dohotka i \u017eivotnog standarda. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Cijena zemlji\u0161ta na francuskoj Rivijeri i u zale\u0111u raste, investitorima u nekretnine postaje interesantno i podru\u010dje Grassea. <br>Umjesto \u0161irenja, nasadi mirisnih kultura se smanjuju, a polako ih zamjenjuju ku\u0107e za odmor. <br>Krajolik Grassea kao poljoprivredno-industrijskog sredi\u0161ta mijenja se u turisti\u010dki, a tradicionalna slika prijestolnice parfema polako nestaje.<br>Zapu\u0161taju se i zastarjeli industrijski pogoni, izgra\u0111eni u prvim desetlje\u0107ijma 19. stolje\u0107a.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>U 1964. niz velikih proizvo\u0111a\u010da iz Grassea  jedan su za drugim stavljeni na prodaju, a kupile su ih ameri\u010dke, nizozemske ili \u0161vicarske grupe. <br>L\u00e9on-Antoine de Chiris 1967. tako\u0111er ogla\u0161ava prodaju Chirisa najboljem ponu\u0111a\u010du. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Za razliku od ostalih proizvo\u0111a\u010da iz Grassea \u010dije su tvrtke pre\u0161le u strane ruke, a nakon toga su bile integrirane u poslovanje, Chiris nije bio iste sre\u0107e:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Dok je najve\u0107i konkurent Roure-Bertrand-Dupont zavr\u0161io pod ki\u0161obranom La Rochea, koji je ve\u0107 bio vlasnik Givaudana, te uz svje\u017ei kapital nastavio uspje\u0161no poslovati s vi\u0161e-manje neizmijenjenim konceptom i pod svojim imenom sve do 1991., kada je potpuno integriran u Givaudan,<br>Chiris je prodan ameri\u010dkom Universal Oil Poducts (UOP).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Brend \u201cChiris\u201d zamijenjen je brendom \u201cUOP Fragrance&#8221;,  a tijekom 1970-ih UOP je proveo veliko restrukturiranje, tijekom kojeg \u0107e ime Chiris potpuno nestati.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_f12689-c7, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_f12689-c7[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_f12689-c7\"]{padding-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-xxs, 0.5rem);text-align:left;font-style:normal;text-transform:none;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_f12689-c7 mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_f12689-c7[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_f12689-c7\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_f12689-c7 img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_f12689-c7[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_f12689-c7\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_f12689-c7, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_f12689-c7[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_f12689-c7\"]{text-align:left!important;}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_f12689-c7, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_f12689-c7[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_f12689-c7\"]{text-align:left!important;}}<\/style>\n<h5 class=\"kt-adv-heading166187_f12689-c7 wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_f12689-c7\">Sudbina nakon prodaje<\/h5>\n\n\n\n<p>Ve\u0107 1977. UOP prodaje Chiris nizozemskom Nardeenu, tada u sklopu ameti\u010dko-nizozemske grupacije Unilever, specijalizirane za proizvodnju ulja, margarina i sapuna. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nardeen nije ulagao u staru tvrtku iz Grassea, pa radnici napu\u0161taju novog vlasnika, koji poku\u0161ava preprodati Chiris.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Chiris kupuje a Clin-Midy grupa, koja je bila vlasnik ljekarni, ali i tvornice sapuna nedaleko od Grassea (Sordes), tvrtke specijalizirane za prehrambene arome (S\u00e9balc\u00e9) i tvrtke specijalizirane za proizvodnju mirisnih materijala (Tombarel).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nedugo poslije, Clin-Midy grupu kupuje Sanofi, farmaceutska tvrtka, osnovana 1973. kao podru\u017enica Elf Aquitaine, francuske naftne kompanije. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Budu\u0107i da je Sanofi tako\u0111er imao kozmeti\u010dki i parfemski odjel i da je u 1970-ima ve\u0107 kupio brojne tvrtke kao \u0161to su Yves Rocher, Roger &amp; Gallet, Van Cleef and Arpels i Molyneux, Sanofijeva uprava odlu\u010duje tijekom 1983. i 1984. na podru\u010dju Plan-de-Grassea izgraditi novu, modernu tvornicu te provesti restrukturiranje kompanije u dva sektora: sektor aroma i sektor parfema.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Po dovr\u0161etku tvornice, Sanofi 1986. godine prodaje zgrade biv\u0161ih Chirisovih pogona op\u0107ini Grasse.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Slavna &#8220;D\u017eamija&#8221;, koji je Leon pustio u rad 1900. postat \u0107e odlagali\u0161te, iz kojeg \u0107e Chirisovi nekada\u0161nji zaposlenici, a potom i MIP Me\u0111unarodni muzej parfumerstva u Grasseu spasiti dijelove arhiva tvrtke te tako sa\u010duvati izvore va\u017ene za cjelokupnu povijest Grassea. <sup class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote \" data-mfn=\"18\" data-mfn-post-scope=\"00000000000018500000000000000000_166187\"><a href=\"javascript:void(0)\"  role=\"button\" aria-pressed=\"false\" aria-describedby=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-18\">18<\/a><\/sup><span id=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-18\" role=\"tooltip\" class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote__note\" tabindex=\"0\" data-mfn=\"18\">Ovdje se primarno misli na predan i nesebi\u010dan rad <strong>Oliviera Buttnera<\/strong>, sindikalnog vo\u0111e pod Sanofijem, posljednjim vlasnikom, koji je sakupio i sa\u010duvao kutije s fotoarhivimom, novinama, \u010dasopisima, rukopisima, poslovnim knjigama i knji\u017enicom u podrumima jedne od godinama napi\u0161teniih Chirisovih tvornica, koja je bila namijenjena otpadu. Uz pomo\u0107 prijatelja, snimatelja, <strong>Marcela Baumanna<\/strong>, dokumentirao je sje\u0107anja radnika i kontakrtirao <strong>\u00c9liane Perrin<\/strong>, doktoricu sociologije sa Sveu\u010dili\u0161ta u Nici, koja se bavila regijom Grassea. Od ljeta 1986. do prosinca 1987. ovaj trojac je u slobodno vrijeme, uz svoje poslove, istra\u017eivao gradivo, a njihov rad objedinjen je 1987. u knjigu&nbsp;<em>Parfumerija u Grasseu ili uzorna povijest Chirisa<\/em>&nbsp;, koja je 1996., reizdana pod naslovom&nbsp;<em>Zlatno doba parfumerije u Grasseu<\/em>. <br>Njihovo zalaganje, ali i zaladanje MIP-a na o\u010duvanju povijesne i industrijske ba\u0161tine Grassea, potaknulo je daljnja znastvena istra\u017eivanja Chirisovih arhiva u Francuskoj i u svijetu (<strong>Mathilde Cocoual<\/strong>). Sve to je, posljedi\u010dno, rezultirala i ovim prikazom.<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nakon prelaska u vlasni\u0161tvo Grassea, ve\u0107i dio tvornice Chiris je sru\u0161en, a na tom mjestu izgra\u0111eno je novo sjedi\u0161te suda u Grasseu i stambene zgrade. <sup class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote \" data-mfn=\"19\" data-mfn-post-scope=\"00000000000018500000000000000000_166187\"><a href=\"javascript:void(0)\"  role=\"button\" aria-pressed=\"false\" aria-describedby=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-19\">19<\/a><\/sup><span id=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-19\" role=\"tooltip\" class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote__note\" tabindex=\"0\" data-mfn=\"19\">Benalloul, G. (2010.)<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ime Chiris pojavilo se opet u javnosti 1989, kada je otvoren MIP, . <br>&#8220;D\u017eamija&#8221; je postala \u201cEspace Chiris\u201d, produ\u017eetak kongresne Palais des Congr\u00e8s in Grasse.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-image.kb-image166187_d1896e-c3:not(.kb-specificity-added):not(.kb-extra-specificity-added){margin-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);margin-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);}.kb-image166187_d1896e-c3.kb-image-is-ratio-size, .kb-image166187_d1896e-c3 .kb-image-is-ratio-size{max-width:800px;width:100%;}.wp-block-kadence-column > .kt-inside-inner-col > .kb-image166187_d1896e-c3.kb-image-is-ratio-size, .wp-block-kadence-column > .kt-inside-inner-col > .kb-image166187_d1896e-c3 .kb-image-is-ratio-size{align-self:unset;}.kb-image166187_d1896e-c3 figure{max-width:800px;}.kb-image166187_d1896e-c3 .image-is-svg, .kb-image166187_d1896e-c3 .image-is-svg img{width:100%;}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-image kb-image166187_d1896e-c3\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-medium_large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"512\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Grasse_-_Ancienne_parfumerie_Chiris-768x512.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"kb-img wp-image-166189\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Grasse_-_Ancienne_parfumerie_Chiris-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Grasse_-_Ancienne_parfumerie_Chiris-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Grasse_-_Ancienne_parfumerie_Chiris-1400x933.jpg 1400w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Grasse_-_Ancienne_parfumerie_Chiris-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Grasse_-_Ancienne_parfumerie_Chiris.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption>Ostatak &#8220;D\u017eamije&#8221;, Chirisove tvornice u Grasseu  (izvor: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.wikidata.org\/wiki\/Q22999291\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/www.wikidata.org\/wiki\/Q22999291<\/a>)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_76aaed-80, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_76aaed-80[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_76aaed-80\"]{padding-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);padding-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-xxs, 0.5rem);margin-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);text-align:left;font-style:normal;text-transform:none;border-bottom:1px solid var(--global-palette3, #1A202C);}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_76aaed-80 mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_76aaed-80[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_76aaed-80\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_76aaed-80 img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_76aaed-80[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_76aaed-80\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_76aaed-80, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_76aaed-80[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_76aaed-80\"]{text-align:left!important;border-bottom:1px solid var(--global-palette3, #1A202C);}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_76aaed-80, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_76aaed-80[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_76aaed-80\"]{text-align:left!important;border-bottom:1px solid var(--global-palette3, #1A202C);}}<\/style>\n<h2 class=\"kt-adv-heading166187_76aaed-80 wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_76aaed-80\">Chirisova &#8220;DNA&#8221;<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>\u0160vicarski <strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.givaudan.com\/our-company\/rich-heritage\/250-year-odyssey\/givaudan-pioneers\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Givaudan<\/a><\/strong>, globalno najja\u010di proizvo\u0111a\u010d mirisa i aroma na svijetu, danas na korporativnim stranicama odaje po\u010dast Chirisu:<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-image.kb-image166187_a19eb5-e4:not(.kb-specificity-added):not(.kb-extra-specificity-added){margin-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);margin-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-image kb-image166187_a19eb5-e4\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1080\" height=\"969\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240427_190059_Chrome-01.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"kb-img wp-image-166591\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240427_190059_Chrome-01.jpeg 1080w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240427_190059_Chrome-01-300x269.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240427_190059_Chrome-01-768x689.jpeg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\" \/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>U tekst naslovljen <em>&#8220;Pioniri: u potrazi za na\u0161om kolektivnom DNA&#8221;<\/em> ugra\u0111en je video koji prikazuje vremensku crtu u obliku DNA te prezentira povijest Givaudana. <sup class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote \" data-mfn=\"20\" data-mfn-post-scope=\"00000000000018500000000000000000_166187\"><a href=\"javascript:void(0)\"  role=\"button\" aria-pressed=\"false\" aria-describedby=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-20\">20<\/a><\/sup><span id=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-20\" role=\"tooltip\" class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote__note\" tabindex=\"0\" data-mfn=\"20\"><strong>Givaudan<\/strong>, online, pristupljeno u travnju 2024.:<br> <em>&#8211; <\/em>Pioneers: Tracing our collective DNA (online). Givaudan, 2024. URL: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.givaudan.com\/our-company\/rich-heritage\/250-year-odyssey\/givaudan-pioneers\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/www.givaudan.com\/our-company\/rich-heritage\/250-year-odyssey\/givaudan-pioneers<\/a>, povezano: <br>&#8211; Our sourcing journey: Givaudan\u2019s approach to sourcing raw materials today is the continuation of a journey that began two-and-a-half centuries ago. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.givaudan.com\/print\/15371\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/www.givaudan.com\/print\/15371<\/a>                       <\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Tekst zapo\u010dinje pitanjem: <em>&#8220;Zamislite lanac DNK, molekulu koja sadr\u017ei jedinstveni genetski kod svih \u017eivih organizama. Kodira upute za stvaranje svih proteina na\u0161eg tijela, odre\u0111uju\u0107i koliko dugo \u017eivimo, kako rastemo i radimo. Ali mo\u017ee li izraziti i kulturu? Pona\u0161anje? Vrijednosti?&#8221;<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Givaudanova kolektivna DNA zapo\u010dinje upravo s pripadnicima dinastije Chiris:<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-image.kb-image166187_0214fc-d4:not(.kb-specificity-added):not(.kb-extra-specificity-added){margin-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);margin-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-image kb-image166187_0214fc-d4\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"618\" height=\"555\" src=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240427_190121_Chrome-01.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"kb-img wp-image-166593\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240427_190121_Chrome-01.jpeg 618w, https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/Screenshot_20240427_190121_Chrome-01-300x269.jpeg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 618px) 100vw, 618px\" \/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>&#8220;<em>Antoine je i uzdigao proizvodnju mirisa na industrijsku razinu. <\/em><br><em>Anselme je putovao svijetom i pro\u0161irio Chirisovo carstvo sourcinga na Centralnu Afriku, Komore, Madagaskar, Indokinu i Al\u017eir.<\/em><br><em>Pod Leonom su stekli zemlju, stvorili planta\u017ee i tvornice i uvozili u Francusku gotove proizvode.<\/em>&#8220;, pi\u0161e u videu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Umjesto kolonijalizma, spominje se <em>putovanje svijetom<\/em>, \u017eestoka eksploatacija prirodnih resursa nje\u017eno je zamijenjena rije\u010dju <em>sourcing<\/em>. Spominju se zemlja i tvornice, ali svaka asocijacija na oduzeta zemlji\u0161ta i izrabljivano lokalno stanovni\u0161tvo pada u sjenu s poantom, kada zasja rije\u010d &#8211; <em>gotov proizvod<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Givaudanova DNA prikazana na vremenskoj crti zapravo je linija brojnih preuzimanja.<sup class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote \" data-mfn=\"21\" data-mfn-post-scope=\"00000000000018500000000000000000_166187\"><a href=\"javascript:void(0)\"  role=\"button\" aria-pressed=\"false\" aria-describedby=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-21\">21<\/a><\/sup><span id=\"mfn-content-00000000000018500000000000000000_166187-21\" role=\"tooltip\" class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote__note\" tabindex=\"0\" data-mfn=\"21\"> Pregled osnutaka i kona\u010dnih integracija prvih industrijalaca: David, O.R.P., Doro, F. (2023.)<\/span>, a Chiris zapravo nije bio dio povijesti Givaudana sve do 2007. godine:<br>Tek s Nardeenom (poslije u sastavu Questa), Givaudan i fakti\u010dno u svoju povijest mo\u017ee uklju\u010diti tvrtku koja je nestala mnogo prije.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>A ipak, video Givaudana je potpuno to\u010dan i vi\u0161estruko istinit:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Chirisa nema, ali je <em>njegova<\/em> <em>DNA<\/em> &#8211; <em>kultura, pona\u0161anje, vrijednosti<\/em> &#8211; do danas pre\u017eivjela u parfemskoj industriji. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I cvjeta.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.kb-block-show-more-container166187_6e5d1d-4f{margin-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-xl, 4rem);}.kb-block-show-more-container166187_6e5d1d-4f > .wp-block-kadence-advancedbtn{margin-top:1em;}.kb-block-show-more-container166187_6e5d1d-4f > .wp-block-kadence-advancedbtn .kt-btn-wrap:nth-child(2), .kb-block-show-more-container166187_6e5d1d-4f > .wp-block-kadence-advancedbtn .wp-block-kadence-singlebtn:nth-of-type(2){display:none;}.kb-block-show-more-container166187_6e5d1d-4f > .wp-block-kadence-column{max-height:90px;overflow-y:hidden;-webkit-mask-image:linear-gradient(to bottom, black 70%, transparent 100%);mask-image:linear-gradient(to bottom, black 70%, transparent 100%);}.kb-block-show-more-container166187_6e5d1d-4f.kb-smc-open > .wp-block-kadence-column{max-height:none;-webkit-mask-image:none;mask-image:none;overflow-y:unset;}.kb-block-show-more-container166187_6e5d1d-4f.kb-smc-open > .wp-block-kadence-advancedbtn .kt-btn-wrap:nth-child(1), .kb-block-show-more-container166187_6e5d1d-4f.kb-smc-open > .wp-block-kadence-advancedbtn .wp-block-kadence-singlebtn:nth-of-type(1){display:none;}.kb-block-show-more-container166187_6e5d1d-4f.kb-smc-open > .wp-block-kadence-advancedbtn .kt-btn-wrap:nth-child(2), .kb-block-show-more-container166187_6e5d1d-4f.kb-smc-open > .wp-block-kadence-advancedbtn .wp-block-kadence-singlebtn:nth-of-type(2){display:inline-flex;}.kb-block-show-more-container166187_6e5d1d-4f.kb-smc-open > .wp-block-kadence-advancedbtn.kt-force-btn-fullwidth .kt-btn-wrap:nth-child(2){display:block;}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-show-more kb-block-show-more-container kb-block-show-more-container166187_6e5d1d-4f\"><style>.kadence-column166187_40b829-28 > .kt-inside-inner-col,.kadence-column166187_40b829-28 > .kt-inside-inner-col:before{border-top-left-radius:0px;border-top-right-radius:0px;border-bottom-right-radius:0px;border-bottom-left-radius:0px;}.kadence-column166187_40b829-28 > .kt-inside-inner-col{column-gap:var(--global-kb-gap-sm, 1rem);}.kadence-column166187_40b829-28 > .kt-inside-inner-col{flex-direction:column;}.kadence-column166187_40b829-28 > .kt-inside-inner-col > .aligncenter{width:100%;}.kadence-column166187_40b829-28 > .kt-inside-inner-col:before{opacity:0.3;}.kadence-column166187_40b829-28{position:relative;}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.kadence-column166187_40b829-28 > .kt-inside-inner-col{flex-direction:column;justify-content:center;}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.kadence-column166187_40b829-28 > .kt-inside-inner-col{flex-direction:column;justify-content:center;}}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-column kadence-column166187_40b829-28 kb-show-more-content\"><div class=\"kt-inside-inner-col\"><style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_2f547d-37, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_2f547d-37[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_2f547d-37\"]{text-align:left;font-style:normal;text-transform:none;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_2f547d-37 mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_2f547d-37[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_2f547d-37\"] mark.kt-highlight{font-family:'HEADING Bold';font-weight:400;font-style:normal;color:var(--global-palette3, #1A202C);border-top:1px solid var(--global-palette5, #4A5568);-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:var(--global-kb-spacing-md, 2rem);}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_2f547d-37 img.kb-inline-image, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_2f547d-37[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_2f547d-37\"] img.kb-inline-image{width:150px;vertical-align:baseline;}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_2f547d-37, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_2f547d-37[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_2f547d-37\"]{text-align:left!important;}}@media all and (max-width: 1024px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_2f547d-37 mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_2f547d-37[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_2f547d-37\"] mark.kt-highlight{border-top:1px solid var(--global-palette5, #4A5568);}}@media all and (max-width: 767px){.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_2f547d-37, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_2f547d-37[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_2f547d-37\"]{text-align:left!important;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_2f547d-37 mark.kt-highlight, .wp-block-kadence-advancedheading.kt-adv-heading166187_2f547d-37[data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_2f547d-37\"] mark.kt-highlight{border-top:1px solid var(--global-palette5, #4A5568);}}<\/style>\n<p class=\"kt-adv-heading166187_2f547d-37 wp-block-kadence-advancedheading\" data-kb-block=\"kb-adv-heading166187_2f547d-37\"><mark class=\"kt-highlight\">Bilje\u0161ke<\/mark><br><ul class=\"modern-footnotes-list \"><li><span>1<\/span><div>Izvori koje sam koristila u dijelovima ovog popularnog prikaza, a koji se odnose na \u010dlanove obitelji te na poslovanje Chirisa su zbog rastere\u0107ivanja teksta skupno navedeni u ovoj bilj\u0161ci. <br>Dalje se u zasebnim bilje\u0161kama navode samo reference na podatke koje specifi\u010dno donose pojedini autori, ili na podatke koji se kod autora razlikuju.<br><br><strong>&#8211;<\/strong> <strong>Cocoual, M.<\/strong> <strong>(2017.)<\/strong> Aux sources des parfums : Industrialization et approvisionnement de la parfumerie grassoise (milieu XIXe \u2013 milieu XXe si\u00e8cle). Histoire. Universit\u00e9 C\u00f4te d&#8217;Azur, 2017. Str. 273. URL: <a href=\"https:\/\/theses.hal.science\/tel-01698978\">ffNNT: 2017AZUR2045ff.; fftel-01698978ff<\/a><br><br><strong>&#8211;<\/strong> <strong>Perrin, E., Baumann,&nbsp;M., Buttner, O. (2016)<\/strong> Fondation, croissance, opportunit\u00e9s et d\u00e9clin de la production des mati\u00e8res premi\u00e8res pour la parfumerie&nbsp;: l\u2019exemple de Chiris (1768-1967),&nbsp;Cahiers de la M\u00e9diterran\u00e9e&nbsp;92&nbsp;|&nbsp;2016, URL: <a href=\"https:\/\/journals.openedition.org\/cdlm\/8391\">https:\/\/journals.openedition.org\/cdlm\/839<\/a><br><br><strong>&#8211; Cocoual, M. (2016.)<\/strong>, La famille Chiris: des industriels en politique, une politique d\u2019industriels?<em>Cahiers de la M\u00e9diterran\u00e9e, 92 | 2016<\/em>, URL: <br><a href=\"https:\/\/journals.openedition.org\/cdlm\/8359\">https:\/\/journals.openedition.org\/cdlm\/8359<\/a><br><br>&#8211; <strong>Benalloul, G. (2010.)  <\/strong>Historiqies des Soci\u00e9t\u00e9s de parfumerie de Grasse: 1800. &#8211; 1839. <em>&nbsp;<em>Recherches r\u00e9gionales, 201\/2010<\/em>. &nbsp;Nica, Archives d\u00e9partementales des Alpes-Maritimes, 2010.&nbsp;<\/em>URL: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.google.com\/url?sa=t&amp;source=web&amp;rct=j&amp;opi=89978449&amp;url=https:\/\/www.departement06.fr\/documents\/Import\/decouvrir-les-am\/recherchesregionales201-10.pdf&amp;ved=2ahUKEwj_s-WmnOOFAxUXVPEDHV48DLAQFnoECBwQAQ&amp;usg=AOvVaw1DTF5_HcBwYr6h_FI2KvVh  \">https:\/\/www.google.com\/url?sa=t&amp;source=web&amp;rct=j&amp;opi=89978449&amp;url=https:\/\/www.departement06.fr\/documents\/Import\/decouvrir-les-am\/recherchesregionales201-10.pdf&amp;ved=2ahUKEwj_s-WmnOOFAxUXVPEDHV48DLAQFnoECBwQAQ&amp;usg=AOvVaw1DTF5_HcBwYr6h_FI2KvVh<\/a> <\/div><\/li><li><span>2<\/span><div>Perrin, E., Baumann,&nbsp;M., Buttner, O. (2016) t\u010d. 30-31<\/div><\/li><li><span>3<\/span><div><strong><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\">Mazuyer, G. <\/font><\/font>(1931)<\/strong> Les Entablissements Antoine Chiris dans le monde.<em> Etablissements Antoine Chiris<\/em>, 1931. URL: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.davidrumsey.com\/ll\/thumbnailView.html?startUrl=%2F%2Fwww.davidrumsey.com%2Fluna%2Fservlet%2Fas%2Fsearch%3Fos%3D0%26q%3Dpub_list_no%3D%2211452.000%22%26bs%3D10\">https:\/\/www.davidrumsey.com\/ll\/thumbnailView.html?startUrl=%2F%2Fwww.davidrumsey.com%2Fluna%2Fservlet%2Fas%2Fsearch%3Fos%3D0%26q%3Dpub_list_no%3D%2211452.000%22%26bs%3D10<\/a><\/div><\/li><li><span>4<\/span><div>Prema Cocoual, M. (2016.), La famille Chiris&#8230;<br>Nasuprot, Perrin, E., Baumann,&nbsp;M., Buttner, O. (2016) navode da je proizvodnja premje\u0161tena 1868., u vrijeme njegovog unuka, Leona Chirisa.<\/div><\/li><li><span>5<\/span><div>Perrin, E., Baumann,&nbsp;M., Buttner, O. (2016.), t\u010d.19 <\/div><\/li><li><span>6<\/span><div>Cocoual, M. (2017.), str. 294.<\/div><\/li><li><span>7<\/span><div>Godina preuzimanja prema Perrin, E., Baumann,&nbsp;M., Buttner, O. (2016.), t\u010d. 21. <br>Sli\u010dno navodi i Cocoual, M. (2017.), str. 275. i Cocoual, M. (2016) La famille Chiris: des industriels&#8230; <br>S druge strane, u vi\u0161e neznanstvenih online izvora navode se razli\u010dite i kasnije godine kada je Chiris kupio Rallet.<br>Prete\u017eno je rije\u010d o 1898. godini, ali bez reference na izvor podatka.<\/div><\/li><li><span>8<\/span><div><strong>Charabot, E. (1900.)<\/strong>&nbsp;Les Parfums artificiels.&nbsp;<em>Encyclop\u00e9die Industrielle, Libraire J.-B.&nbsp;<\/em>Bailli\u00e8re et Fils, Paris, 1900.<br><br><strong><strong>Benalloul, G. (2010.)<\/strong><\/strong>, Techniques de parfumerie \u00e0 Grasse. <em>Recherches r\u00e9gionales, god 51\/br. 196<\/em>. &nbsp;Nica, Archives d\u00e9partementales des Alpes-Maritimes, 2010. URL: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.departement06.fr\/documents\/Import\/decouvrir-les-am\/recherchesregionales196-06.pdf\">https:\/\/www.departement06.fr\/documents\/Import\/decouvrir-les-am\/recherchesregionales196-06.pdf<\/a>,<\/div><\/li><li><span>9<\/span><div><strong>Demassieux, N. (2022) <\/strong>Le domaine Sainte-Marguerite \u00e0 Boufarik. (Online) URL: <a href=\"https:\/\/nicolas.demassieux.fr\/2022\/12\/14\/le-domaine-sainte-marguerite-a-boufarik\/\">https:\/\/nicolas.demassieux.fr\/2022\/12\/14\/le-domaine-sainte-marguerite-a-boufarik\/<\/a>. <br>Svi podaci u ovom tekstu o \u017eivotu i proizvodnji na imanju Sainte-Marguerite u Boufariku preneseni su iz ovog rada. <br>Nicolas Demarchieux sa\u010duvao je i prenio tekst (<em>&#8220;Monografija imanja Sainte-Marguerite&#8221;<\/em>), koji je 1960-ih napisala <strong>Apure Yvorra<\/strong>, unuka Ferdinanda Delauzuna, zaposlenika imanja. Rukopis njezine monografije, koja nije objavljena, sadr\u017ei podatke iz obiteljskog arhiva te podatke iz  necjelovito sa\u010duvanog Chirisovog arhiva. Iako tekst Apure Yvorra nije znanstveno vrednovan, na njega se osvr\u0107e i Cocoual, M. (2017), str. 292-293.  <\/div><\/li><li><span>10<\/span><div>  <font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><font style=\"vertical-align: inherit;\"><strong>Cocoual<\/strong>, <strong>M. (2014)<\/strong> In the perfumed land &#8211; <em>Film d&#8217;Enterprise r\u00e9alis\u00e9 par Max Dianvillea ann\u00e9es 1920.<\/em> Recherches r\u00e9gionales. Alpes-Maritimes et contr\u00e9es limitrophes, 2014. URL: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.departement06.fr\/documents\/A-votre-service\/Culture\/archives\/recherches-regionales\/cg06_recherchesregionales207_14.pdf\">https:\/\/www.departement06.fr\/documents\/A-votre-service\/Culture\/archives\/recherches-regionales\/cg06_recherchesregionales207_14.pdf<\/a>.<\/font><\/font><\/div><\/li><li><span>11<\/span><div>Cocoual, M. (2017), str. 273.<\/div><\/li><li><span>12<\/span><div> <strong>Toledano, R. B:, Coty, E. Z. (2009)<\/strong>, Fran\u00e7ois Coty: fragrance, power, money. <em>Pelican Publishing Company, 2009<\/em>. str. 55-60 <\/div><\/li><li><span>13<\/span><div><strong>Cocoual<\/strong>,<strong> M.<\/strong> <strong>(2016) <\/strong>De la Capitale des parfums aux \u00eeles aux parfums&nbsp;: les int\u00e9r\u00eats grassois \u00e0 Madagascar et d\u00e9pendances. <em>Cahiers de la M\u00e9diterran\u00e9e 92 | 2016. <\/em>&nbsp;URL: <a href=\"https:\/\/journals.openedition.org\/cdlm\/8369\">https:\/\/journals.openedition.org\/cdlm\/8369<\/a>. <\/div><\/li><li><span>14<\/span><div><strong>David, O.R.P., Doro, F. (2023)<\/strong>. Industrial Fragrance Chemistry: A Brief Historical Perspective. <em>European Journal of Organic Chemistry<\/em>, vol.26\/44, 2023. URL: <a href=\"https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1002\/ejoc.202300900\">https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1002\/ejoc.202300900<\/a>  <\/div><\/li><li><span>15<\/span><div>Cocoual, M. (2016.), La famille Chiris&#8230;, t\u010d. 22. i Perrin, E., Baumann,&nbsp;M., Buttner, O. (2016)<\/div><\/li><li><span>16<\/span><div>Demassieux, N. (2022.) Citat zapisa A. Yvorre.<\/div><\/li><li><span>17<\/span><div>Perrin, E., Baumann, M., Buttner, O. (2016) t\u010d. 26<\/div><\/li><li><span>18<\/span><div>Ovdje se primarno misli na predan i nesebi\u010dan rad <strong>Oliviera Buttnera<\/strong>, sindikalnog vo\u0111e pod Sanofijem, posljednjim vlasnikom, koji je sakupio i sa\u010duvao kutije s fotoarhivimom, novinama, \u010dasopisima, rukopisima, poslovnim knjigama i knji\u017enicom u podrumima jedne od godinama napi\u0161teniih Chirisovih tvornica, koja je bila namijenjena otpadu. Uz pomo\u0107 prijatelja, snimatelja, <strong>Marcela Baumanna<\/strong>, dokumentirao je sje\u0107anja radnika i kontakrtirao <strong>\u00c9liane Perrin<\/strong>, doktoricu sociologije sa Sveu\u010dili\u0161ta u Nici, koja se bavila regijom Grassea. Od ljeta 1986. do prosinca 1987. ovaj trojac je u slobodno vrijeme, uz svoje poslove, istra\u017eivao gradivo, a njihov rad objedinjen je 1987. u knjigu&nbsp;<em>Parfumerija u Grasseu ili uzorna povijest Chirisa<\/em>&nbsp;, koja je 1996., reizdana pod naslovom&nbsp;<em>Zlatno doba parfumerije u Grasseu<\/em>. <br>Njihovo zalaganje, ali i zaladanje MIP-a na o\u010duvanju povijesne i industrijske ba\u0161tine Grassea, potaknulo je daljnja znastvena istra\u017eivanja Chirisovih arhiva u Francuskoj i u svijetu (<strong>Mathilde Cocoual<\/strong>). Sve to je, posljedi\u010dno, rezultirala i ovim prikazom.<\/div><\/li><li><span>19<\/span><div>Benalloul, G. (2010.)<\/div><\/li><li><span>20<\/span><div><strong>Givaudan<\/strong>, online, pristupljeno u travnju 2024.:<br> <em>&#8211; <\/em>Pioneers: Tracing our collective DNA (online). Givaudan, 2024. URL: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.givaudan.com\/our-company\/rich-heritage\/250-year-odyssey\/givaudan-pioneers\">https:\/\/www.givaudan.com\/our-company\/rich-heritage\/250-year-odyssey\/givaudan-pioneers<\/a>, povezano: <br>&#8211; Our sourcing journey: Givaudan\u2019s approach to sourcing raw materials today is the continuation of a journey that began two-and-a-half centuries ago. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.givaudan.com\/print\/15371\">https:\/\/www.givaudan.com\/print\/15371<\/a>                       <\/div><\/li><li><span>21<\/span><div> Pregled osnutaka i kona\u010dnih integracija prvih industrijalaca: David, O.R.P., Doro, F. (2023.)<\/div><\/li><\/ul>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-advancedbtn.kb-btnsbutton-one-16{gap:var(--global-kb-gap-xs, 0.5rem );justify-content:flex-start;align-items:center;}.kt-btnsbutton-one-16 .kt-button{font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;}.kt-btnsbutton-one-16 .kt-btn-wrap-0{margin-right:5px;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedbtn.kt-btnsbutton-one-16 .kt-btn-wrap-0 .kt-button{color:#555555;border-color:#555555;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedbtn.kt-btnsbutton-one-16 .kt-btn-wrap-0 .kt-button:hover, .wp-block-kadence-advancedbtn.kt-btnsbutton-one-16 .kt-btn-wrap-0 .kt-button:focus{color:#ffffff;border-color:#444444;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedbtn.kt-btnsbutton-one-16 .kt-btn-wrap-0 .kt-button::before{display:none;}.wp-block-kadence-advancedbtn.kt-btnsbutton-one-16 .kt-btn-wrap-0 .kt-button:hover, .wp-block-kadence-advancedbtn.kt-btnsbutton-one-16 .kt-btn-wrap-0 .kt-button:focus{background:#444444;}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-advancedbtn kb-buttons-wrap 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