{"id":150946,"date":"2024-02-21T14:25:39","date_gmt":"2024-02-21T13:25:39","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/mirisni-trag\/test-objava\/"},"modified":"2025-05-12T10:59:04","modified_gmt":"2025-05-12T08:59:04","slug":"parfumer-povijesne-definicije","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/parfumer-povijesne-definicije\/","title":{"rendered":"Parfumer &#8211; povijesne definicije"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>I Websterov rje\u010dnik, i Hachette, francuski enciklopedijski rje\u010dnik, tradicionalno definiraju parfumera trima elementima, kao onog tko: <\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-iconlist.kt-svg-icon-list-items150880_8bfd16-57:not(.this-stops-third-party-issues){margin-top:0px;margin-bottom:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-iconlist.kt-svg-icon-list-items150880_8bfd16-57 ul.kt-svg-icon-list:not(.this-prevents-issues):not(.this-stops-third-party-issues):not(.tijsloc){margin-top:0px;margin-right:0px;margin-bottom:var(--global-kb-spacing-sm, 1.5rem);margin-left:0px;}.wp-block-kadence-iconlist.kt-svg-icon-list-items150880_8bfd16-57 ul.kt-svg-icon-list{grid-row-gap:15px;}.wp-block-kadence-iconlist.kt-svg-icon-list-items150880_8bfd16-57 ul.kt-svg-icon-list .kt-svg-icon-list-item-wrap .kt-svg-icon-list-single{margin-right:10px;}.kt-svg-icon-list-items150880_8bfd16-57 ul.kt-svg-icon-list .kt-svg-icon-list-level-0 .kt-svg-icon-list-single svg{font-size:20px;}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-iconlist kt-svg-icon-list-items kt-svg-icon-list-items150880_8bfd16-57 kt-svg-icon-list-columns-1 alignnone kt-list-icon-aligntop\"><ul class=\"kt-svg-icon-list\"><style>.kt-svg-icon-list-item-150880_95b90f-04 .kt-svg-icon-list-text mark.kt-highlight{background-color:unset;font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}<\/style>\n<li class=\"wp-block-kadence-listitem kt-svg-icon-list-item-wrap kt-svg-icon-list-item-150880_95b90f-04\"><span class=\"kb-svg-icon-wrap kb-svg-icon-fe_chevronRight kt-svg-icon-list-single\"><svg viewBox=\"0 0 24 24\"  fill=\"none\" stroke=\"currentColor\" stroke-width=\"2\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\"  aria-hidden=\"true\"><polyline points=\"9 18 15 12 9 6\"\/><\/svg><\/span><span class=\"kt-svg-icon-list-text\">1. <strong>stvara\/kreira<\/strong> parfeme,<\/span><\/li>\n\n\n<style>.kt-svg-icon-list-item-150880_bcc092-af .kt-svg-icon-list-text mark.kt-highlight{background-color:unset;font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}<\/style>\n<li class=\"wp-block-kadence-listitem kt-svg-icon-list-item-wrap kt-svg-icon-list-item-150880_bcc092-af\"><span class=\"kb-svg-icon-wrap kb-svg-icon-fe_chevronRight kt-svg-icon-list-single\"><svg viewBox=\"0 0 24 24\"  fill=\"none\" stroke=\"currentColor\" stroke-width=\"2\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\"  aria-hidden=\"true\"><polyline points=\"9 18 15 12 9 6\"\/><\/svg><\/span><span class=\"kt-svg-icon-list-text\">2. <strong>proizvodi<\/strong> parfeme,<\/span><\/li>\n\n\n<style>.kt-svg-icon-list-item-150880_a0601e-3f .kt-svg-icon-list-text mark.kt-highlight{background-color:unset;font-style:normal;color:#f76a0c;-webkit-box-decoration-break:clone;box-decoration-break:clone;padding-top:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;}<\/style>\n<li class=\"wp-block-kadence-listitem kt-svg-icon-list-item-wrap kt-svg-icon-list-item-150880_a0601e-3f\"><span class=\"kb-svg-icon-wrap kb-svg-icon-fe_chevronRight kt-svg-icon-list-single\"><svg viewBox=\"0 0 24 24\"  fill=\"none\" stroke=\"currentColor\" stroke-width=\"2\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\"  aria-hidden=\"true\"><polyline points=\"9 18 15 12 9 6\"\/><\/svg><\/span><span class=\"kt-svg-icon-list-text\">3. <strong>prodaje<\/strong> parfeme.<\/span><\/li>\n<\/ul><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Sve do po\u010detaka 20. stolje\u0107a u zanatskim radionicama odvijao se cjelokupan proces proizvodnje parfema, od kreiranja mirisne kompozicije do proizvodnje gotovog proizvoda (parfema i parfimiranih proizvoda) te njihova prodaja.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nakon 1. svjetskog rata, kroz godine me\u0111ura\u0107a, iz tradicionalnog zanata postupno se razvija industrijska grana, a proizvodnja mirisa i parfema\/parfimiranih proizvoda postupno se odvaja od distribucije i prodaje: <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Kreirani mirisi i proizvodi koji ih sadr\u017ee zapo\u010dinju se proizvoditi u industrijskim pogonim, a prodaja proizvoda se, osim putem trgovina brendova\/modnih ku\u0107a, zapo\u010dinje odvijati i preko posrednika &#8211; parfumerija. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Sredinom 20. stolje\u0107a, Francusko udru\u017eenje parfumera \/<a href=\"https:\/\/www.parfumeurs-createurs.org\/en\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Soci\u00e9t\u00e9 Fran\u00e7aise des Parfumeurs (SFP)<\/a>, najstarija svjetska parfumerska strukovna udruga (osnovana 1901.) izmijenila je tradicionalnu definiciju parfumera tako da <b>odvojila kreaciju i proizvodnju <a href=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/pojmovi\/formula-parfema-i-miris\/\" data-type=\"pojmovi\" data-id=\"84016\"> mirisa <\/a><\/b> <b>od proizvodnje <\/b><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/pojmovi\/vrsta-parfema-i-koncentracija-parfema\/\">parfema<\/a><\/strong> i<strong> parfimiranih proizvoda<\/strong>:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>U\u010deni pripadnici zanimanja koji kreiraju mirisne kompozicije zapo\u010dinju nositi zvanje<em> <strong>parfumeur-createur <\/strong><\/em>(parfumer-kreator), dok oni pripadnici zanimanja koji proizvode gotove proizvode (parfeme i parfumirane proizvode) pripadaju zanimanju parfumera (<strong><em>parfumeur<\/em><\/strong>). <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Me\u0111utim, u vrijeme kada je SPF razgrani\u010dio zanimanja parfumeur-createur \/ parfumeur, u\u010denje specifi\u010dnih stru\u010dnih znanja parfumera-kreatora mirisa se jo\u0161 uvijek odvijalo na tradicionalan na\u010din: <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Sredinom 20. stolje\u0107a jo\u0161 nisu postojale specijalizirane i formalno priznate parfemske \u0161kole, a u\u010denje specifi\u010dnih stru\u010dnih znanja parfumera-kreatora je jo\u0161 uvijek bilo izravno povezano s u\u010denjem od mentora (parfumera) kroz praksu, bilo u sklopu zanatskih radionica, bilo u sklopu industrijskih laboratorija, od kojih su mnogi, uz same mirisne kreacije, proizvodili i gotove proizvode &#8211; parfeme.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Po\u010detkom 1970-ih, s osnutkom prve i najstarije parfemske \u0161kole otvorenog tipa, ISIPCA-e (<em>Institut sup\u00e9rieur international du parfum, de la cosm\u00e9tique et de l\u2019aromatique alimentaire<\/em>, 1970.) iz zanimanja parfumeur-createur formira se i formalno zvanje parfumera-kreatora mirisa, odnosno &#8220;\u0161kolovanog parfumera&#8221;.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Povijesne definicije &#8220;tko je parfumer i \u0161to radi&#8221; izviru iz tradicije parfumerstva kao zanata koji se u\u010dio u zatvorenom krugu radionice\/manufakture i prenosio s majstora na u\u010denika\/\u0161egrta. Sredinom 20. stolje\u0107a definicija parfumera do\u017eivjela je prve promjene.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":150917,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_kad_blocks_custom_css":"","_kad_blocks_head_custom_js":"","_kad_blocks_body_custom_js":"","_kad_blocks_footer_custom_js":"","_kad_post_transparent":"","_kad_post_title":"","_kad_post_layout":"","_kad_post_sidebar_id":"","_kad_post_content_style":"","_kad_post_vertical_padding":"","_kad_post_feature":"","_kad_post_feature_position":"","_kad_post_header":false,"_kad_post_footer":false,"_kad_post_classname":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[3191],"tags":[],"kreator":[],"topic":[],"brand":[],"parfemska_grupa":[],"note":[],"organization":[],"osobe":[],"serijal":[],"class_list":["post-150946","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-kultura-i-povijest-parfema"],"acf":{"show_related_posts":false,"related-post_1":null,"related-post_2":null,"related-post_3":null,"related-post_4":null,"related-post_5":null,"related-post_6":null,"related-post_7":null,"related-post_8":null,"related-post_9":null,"related-post_10":null},"taxonomy_info":{"category":[{"value":3191,"label":"Kultura parfema"}]},"featured_image_src_large":["https:\/\/mirisna.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/2_20240221_160607_0001-1400x788.jpg",1360,765,true],"author_info":{"display_name":"Iva Mirisna","author_link":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/author\/miradmin\/"},"comment_info":0,"category_info":[{"term_id":3191,"name":"Kultura parfema","slug":"kultura-i-povijest-parfema","term_group":0,"term_taxonomy_id":3191,"taxonomy":"category","description":"","parent":2980,"count":19,"filter":"raw","term_order":"0","cat_ID":3191,"category_count":19,"category_description":"","cat_name":"Kultura parfema","category_nicename":"kultura-i-povijest-parfema","category_parent":2980}],"tag_info":false,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/150946","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=150946"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/150946\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/150917"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=150946"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=150946"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=150946"},{"taxonomy":"kreator","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/kreator?post=150946"},{"taxonomy":"topic","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/topic?post=150946"},{"taxonomy":"brand","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/brand?post=150946"},{"taxonomy":"parfemska_grupa","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/parfemska_grupa?post=150946"},{"taxonomy":"note","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/note?post=150946"},{"taxonomy":"organization","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/organization?post=150946"},{"taxonomy":"osobe","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/osobe?post=150946"},{"taxonomy":"serijal","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mirisna.com\/hr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/serijal?post=150946"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}