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Musc Couture by Jacques Fath
Jean-Christophe Herault, 2025.
Idilios by Rubini Profumi
Cristiano Canali, 2025.
The newly launched Idilio is very different from the rest of the line.
Andrea follows the path of slow perfumery at its best – his perfumes are rounded, polished compositions deriving from the condensed idea.
I tested Idilios when the fluid was just produced and three hours old, but it smelled very promising. Look at the picture: blue sky, silky clouds, and pink inner glow. That’s Idilio — quietness, inner peace, and satisfaction.
Neon Lights by Milano Fragranze
Nathalie Fiesthauer, 2025.
Milano Fragranze continues the collection!
Neon Lights, the newly launched perfume, was created by Nathalie Fiesthauer under the creative direction of Ermano Picco.
The new perfume draws inspiration from the electrifying atmosphere of Milan’s iconic discotheque in the 1980s and 1990s:
“Neon Lights discotheque was a place where you could be whatever you wanted to be, a place of freedom and personal expression.”, explains Ermano Picco.
I tested Neon Lights on Esxence 2025, and it is a vibrant and sophisticatedly extroverted creation: strawberries, tuberose, musks, a touch of hairspray and powder, mixed with some heat and sweat, all revived, and mingling and dancing in tune.
Regina Vergine by Cristiano Cavagna
2025.
Regina Vergine (2025.) delivers an interesting contrast of green top and honeyed, waxy, warm and sweet drydown.
This is the fifth addition to the Cristiano Caravagna line La Tuberosa Secondo Me, inspired by tuberose.
Peach Trilogy kolekcija – Sarah Baker
Chris Maurice, 2024/2025.
Sarah Baker lansirala je Pastel Rumours i Rococo Pie, koji zaokružuju trilogiju posvećenu breskvi.
Peach Trilogy” kolekcija predstavljena je prošle godine s Peach’s Revenge, a sva tri parfema su rezultat suradnje Chrisom Mauriceom.
Iako breskvu najradije nosim kao pozadinsku notu – a u sva tri parfema breskva je u prvome planu – stvarno mi se sviđa što je Sarah Baker napravila s u osnovi gurmanskim profilom parfema:
U ovoj trilogiji, breskva je mirisni entitet koji ima meso koje možeš uhvatiti, baršunastu kožu koja dodiruje i koja se ježi, sok koji curi kroz prste te – raspoloženje i karakter.
Svaki parfem stvara mirisnu priču što sve slatka breskva može postati kada se njezino raspoloženje promijeni iz samo breskvastog u drugo:
Bila ona opuštena i zadovoljna, slatka, ali opaka, ili pak suptilno, ali precizno osvetoljubiva – breskva je breskva je breskva.
Kod Sarah Baker naprosto volim taj touch ženske drame.
Velvet Iris – Essential Parfums
Dominique Ropion, 2025.
U kolekciji Essential parfums uskoro će se naći i iris:
Velvet Iris potpisuje Master Parfumer Dominique Ropion, a miriše na odlazak zime i svježe, rano proljeće, kada probijaju prvi pupovi i nove zelene travke.
Velvet Iris je pri vrhu magično zelen, s lijepo istaknutim galbanumom.
Srcem dominira baršunasti iris s izraženim drvenim fasetima, koji pri bazi prelaze u tople, zemljane tonove.
Essential Parfums planira izlazak parfema sredinom svibnja.
Tonka Latte by Parfums Dusitta
Pissara Umavijani, 2025.
Dusita launches Tonka Latte, the first top-to-bottom gourmand in Pissara Umavijani’s line.
The fragrance is “easy like Sunday morning,” creating a feeling of profound but straightforward warmth and ultimately celebrating finding happiness in life’s small pleasures.
Éveìlleur – europski brend s hrvatskim potpisom
Olivier Cresp, Nathalie Lorson, 2024.
Dajana Jukić, vlasnica i kreativna direktorica brenda, probila je led i to baš tamo gdje je najdeblji. Hrvatska sada doista ima brend čije parfeme potpisuju crème de la crème parfumeri – Olivier Cresp i Nathalie Lorson – a mirisi su proizvedeni u samom srcu parfemske industrije, DSM-Firmenichu.
KV by Kateryna Vel’menko
Amelie Burgois, Camille Chemardin, Elia Chice, Patrice Revillard, Antonio Alessandria, 2024.
KV by Kateryna Vel’menko – The Italian brand, whose face and name are represented by its creative director, showcased a large collection of 11 perfumes and presented them following a proven formula — and flawlessly so.
Rosae Virtus collection
Davide Dalla Libera, 2023.
Rosae Virtus is a brand-new Italian brand, launched on the first day of Esxence, and founded by Davide Dalla Libera, the botanist and the creator of the perfumes. The “Rosae Virtus” brand was born from the activities of the Novaspina farm, which produces and sells roses and irises of its own selection throughout Europe.
Rosarine by Dusita
Pissara Umavijani, 2023.
Rosarine is the perfume that the beautifully constructed Dusita collection missed to be perfect: a luscious red rose, refined, jet seductive, paired with polished patchouli.
Odenaturae and the new version of Fundamental by Rubini Profumi
Cristiano Canali, 2025.
Abîme by Maison Violet
Nathalie Lorson, 2023.
Back in 2018., when Anthony Toulemonde, Paul Richardot, and Victorien Sirot launched the first four perfumes of their brand Maison Violet, the story of young business partners whose friendship goes back to the first years of studying at the Ecole Supérieure du Parfum in Paris looked charming and promising.
Now, five years and three more perfumes later, I am fully ready to exclaim: “Well done!”
X COLLECTION by NISHANE
Mert Güzel and Murat Katran celebrate 10 the birthday of Nishane with the X Collection, which includes five most loved perfumes, reinterpreted: Ani X, Fan Your Flames X, Hacivat X, Hundred Silent Ways X and Woolong Cha X.
The balance, smoothness, and richness of the Nishane’s originals stayed intact; the “old” olfactive profiles remained fully preserved and are unmistakably recognisable to those who know them. However, each new interpretation presents a lighter, airier, and brighter character.
The X in the collection’s name stands for the Roman number 10, but after smelling all the perfumes, I feel that it may as well stand for “X-factor.”
10 years of that, and excellence is the reason for the deep respect.
I like the transparent and slightly floral Wolong Cha X even more than the initial creation, which I love.
Source Adage Fragrances
Source Adage organized the special event in a beautiful Studio Dimore in the centre of Florence, very near Santa Maria Novella. This is a brand to watch.
Source Adage is a New York-born brand, founded in 2015. by Christopher Draghi and Robert Dobay.
Capitalising on the first seven years of a successful business, the founders and creative directors opened a new chapter and relocated their brand and lives to Italy.
I enjoyed smelling three perfumes from their US collection, re-made by Firmenich for the EU market: C’i’an, Aétai, and Monto’ac. All three were very nice.
I liked Monto’ac, a freshly green, airy, and aromatic perfume built around sage, oakmoss, tobacco, and leather. I was captured by C’i’an, an elegant composition based on the juxtaposition of fresh and moist sweet apple and uplifting, coldish juniper and mint.
The creative duo presented the two perfumes, which were entirely made in Italy and will be launched at the end of the year. I look forward to exploring Clouds, a composition inspired by the moody spring sky.
Tendresse d’automne by Tobba Parfums
Jasper Lie, 2023.
The caressing beauty of Tendresse d’automne gave me chills, and I chose it for my Scent of the Pitti Day 2. That says it all.
18:9 Moldavite Green Light by Olivier Durbano
Olivier Durbano, 2022.
As his 18 perfume, Olivier Durbano presented 18:9 Moldavite Green Light: a classic, timeless and vivacious creation built around the angelica.
The bright and green composition moved me on a first sniff: through light, it possesses inner strength and is at the same time soothing and vibrating, energetic and calming, fresh and deep.
The perfumes Mr Durbano creates are true expressions of his spirit, up to the point when I feel that by smelling his compositions, he’s letting me inhale the layered expression of himself.
Fig Infusion by Essential Parfums
Nathalie Lorson, 2022.
If it deceivingly seems simple, the face of authenticity may sometimes be considered self-understandable. But that is so until you take a good look around.
This summer, I went through half of a 100 ml bottle of the latest Essential Parfums release – Fig Infusion. What in June seemed like the beginning of a beautiful friendship, in August, became a love that still grows.