#parfumer

Jean-Claude Ellena

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04/25/2023

parfumeri

“Manje je više” – Jean-Claude Ellena u intervjuu za The Plum Girl

Jean Claude Ellena razgovarao je s Elenom Cvjetković o “zavođenju i vikanju” parfemom, “manje je više” konceptu i životu parfumera.

Sažet, ali slikovit, Ellena je s Elenom pričao o razvoju i sažimanju svoje palete, o razdoblju nakon Hermesa i poslovnim razlikama u pristupu kreaciji parfema koji definiraju suvremenu produkciju.

Također, izravno se osvrnuo i na koncept “manje je više”, ali u kontekstu izraženih trendova koji se oslanjaju na performanse, snagu i izravnost parfema.

Parfem nije samo proizvod. On mora biti više od toga. Parfem treba zavesti. Treba drugome ispričati priču, ili mu pomoći da bolje ispriča svoju priču.
Ti “proizvodi”, oni ne zavode.
Jean-Claude Ellena, iz intervjua

parfumeri

IDI NA IZVORNI SADRŽAJ

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07/21/2020

PARFEMI

naglasci

Baliflora – Laboratorio Olfattivo

Jean-Claude Ellena, 2019.

Spoj frangipianija i lotosa na pufasto-prozračnoj, kremastoj podlozi, pravi ljetni go-to.

naglasci

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09/20/2019

PARFEMI

naglasci

Rose & Cuir – Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

Jean-Claude Ellena, 2019.

Rose&Cuir je s jedne strane intenzivan, a s druge kristalno transparentan.

ruža

naglasci

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09/01/2019

PARFEMI

recenzije

Eau des Merveilles i L’Ambre des Merveilles /Hermès

Ralf Schwieger/Nathalie Fiesthauer, 2006. / Jean-Claude Ellena, 2012.

Eau des Merveilles i L’Ambre des Merveilles omeđuju moje ljeto: karakterno različite i odmah prepoznatljive, veže ih svježa slanost i bakreno-zlatna, topla svjetlucavost.

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05/19/2019

PARFEMI

recenzije

Eau de Gentiane Blanche / Hermès

Jean-Claude Ellena, 2009.

U Eau De Gentiane Blanche nema ništa sporty, citrusno, vodeno ili ozonično. Karakterom je ovo mirna i tiha kolonjska s inovativnim pomakom koji donosi encijan, a spada točno u sredinu muško-ženske parfemske police – bez svojatanja.

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05/17/2019

“Parfem” – BBC-jeva dokumentarna serija

U tradiciji svojih najboljih dokumentaraca, BBC je tijekom 2010. godine snimio trodijelnu dokumentarnu seriju Parfem, koja se osvrće na prošlost parfumerstva i skreće pažnju na smjerove kojima će ono krenuti u bliskoj budućnosti. Serija dokumentira stanje industrije i trendove iz sada gotovo 15 godina stare perspektive, no sva različita lica…

industrija i tržište
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parfumeri

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05/15/2019

PARFEMI

recenzije

Ambre Imperial/Van Cleef&Arpels i L’Ambre des Merveilles / Hermès

Usporedni test

Razlika je manje vezana uz toplo i slatko srce parfema, a više uz aranžman uokolo ambrenog akorda: drvenkastost i tonkinu pudrastost u drydownu Ambre Imperial, odnosno blagu slankastost i animaličnost L’Ambre des Merveilles.

ambra

recenzije

ambra

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04/14/2019

PARFEMI

recenzije

Rose Amazone / Hermès

Jean-Claude Ellena, 2014.

Fruity-floral za one koji ih ne vole.

recenzije

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04/02/2019

PARFEMI

Bois Farine / L’Artisan Parfumeur

Jean-Claude Ellena, 2003.

Transparentan drveno-irisni smart-casual čiji weirdo foody slojevi koketiraju s konceptom neslatkog gurmanca.

drveni / drvene note